Alex Dark

Ah, i was going to suggest having ratings in trials-tube...good thinking!

Dude, ive spent ages making these...would you mind plotting them for me? Ill pay you if needs be....pm me or email me, or reply to this please......alexdark2@hotmail.co.uk

helicoiling makes so much sense....you might be able to get another kind of thread insert, but the helicoil seems like the most practical option available to you

leeson forks, burns, maggie quicksilver s(04s) mavic 721s pro2 hubs, dmr v8s, azonic risers, thomson stem, xt cassette, kmc kool chain, zoo pads on back so no grind, hope headset, carbon saddle

i use 661 mtx gloves..had em for 2 years now, awesome quality

OOh...that looks erm interesting to ride, maybe we can expect a dengified version soon?!

top picture is lurvly...sunset shots look awesome

awesome pic, great timing!

Pretty nice looking, not very keen on anodised green though

whoo! 2 pimping da-bombs... Seriously though....id probably de sticker it, but apart from that.......2 very nicely specced mods..nice

Ah i remember...is because the frame can take a 20" wheel or 19" wheel...the top edge off the mount is a bit longer so it can rest on the 20" mount (when used on a 19" wheel)

doing a sidehop to front should increase the height you can sidehop...although going to 2 wheels looks a lot cleaner, i think

Nice video once i downloaded it....could do with some more imaginative editing though

Id buy a t-shirt , especially with my display name..thats a really cool idea..

Its just one of those things in the learning curve of getting better...every so often itll fell as if youve hit a brick wall in terms of progreesion...sometimes all it needs is a couple of days off the bike... try looking at lots of videos for techniques..or maybe trashzen.com

Yeh i know....very very loose spokes in that pic ....tis fairly true normally!

Should be good weather as well....i need to try and get some filming done...anyone want to volunteer to help?! its for my d of e project

9.75kb/s....please just upload it on here!

Well put tim..... Yeah basically go 2nd hand, and a you've got a background in mtb, like me id advise you go for a stock (26")...mods are too small and ride so strangely, and 24s are so hard to get parts for....som might say that a stock is too big to throw around, but if youve been riding dh with a 15kg+ bike, a 10kg trials bike'll be easily mauled around

Ooh...tis going to be good....i need to source a video camera though

Street: Tunnicliffe, Akkrigg Natural...i dont really like it so dont really have an opinion! Comp....same as above

The rest of the pics.....im the one in the white helmet on the zoo...ryan trotts on the koxx with the blue bits

Some pictures from truro along with some older pics that i took in plymouth and lostwihiel

Monty brake spray is a bit oldskool my friend! the modern alternative is to use tar on the braking surface on the rim..it lasts longer, works better and doesnt leave gunky white stuff all over said rims... ( tar can be cleaned of with mr sheen ! ) the other alternative is to put a grind ( scrape the side of the rim using an angle grinder to get lots of little vertical cuts to improve braking performance, it also helps channel water away ) on your rim and accordingly use harder compound brake blocks to compensate for increased friction and therefore faster pad wear. Trials-Forum Video -> Full View • Download • Upload A mavic 117/ 317 is an extremely light weight xc rim that wouldnt stand up to 5 mins of abuse on atrials bike...even as a front wheel. Campy havent made even an mtb rim for a fair while (to my knowledge) and therefore like the lightweight mavic wouldnt be up to trials abuse. dont get me wrong, mavic are awesome rims , and the 721 / 521 are more than strong enough for most riders...although a bit skinny by modern standards. drilled wide wheels are the norm now...( 35mm+). locking your wheel certainly isnt bad!! No-one toes in their pads anymore ( In the mtb/trials world), as it reduces noice and power (due to the pad impacting the rim then flexing, meaning braking power is lost). Pads have to be setup perfectly parallel to the rim...with a soft compound pad on a smooth rim, and a hard compund on a grind. Nowadays its most common to have a hydraulic,or cable disc on the front with the usually the biggest rotor possible to get maximum power, and an hs33 ( hydraulic rim caliper brake ) or powerful vee brake, normally either an avid or a very top-end shimano offering ( xt/xtr ) or

Mate, a water bleed is far superior to an oil blood in every way... Add a lil antifreeze and itll never freeze as well!