Muel

This is no joke, smear some nice, sticky mud round your rotors, ride up and down the rose with your brakes dragging to clean the pad surfaceup, then spray it really well, then fo and get your rotors hot to evapourate all the steam off, then go ride. Works for me every time, I have been running hydro discs on my scott for over a year.

VIZ have just made some 24" specific rims, you can use stock hubs and there are loads of 24" tyres available. Link to the rims: http://www.vizbikes.co.uk/trialsuk/v2/home I am fairly sure you can get neary all maxxis tyres in 24", high roller seem to be quite popular, you do have a limited choice if your planning to go 24, but it is not hard any more, the only specialist bits are frames, forks, rims, tyres and bar/stem combos (although most people just run stock bars). I think 24 will get very popular in the future, it seems to be the best of both worlds. I my opinion if you want one go for it!

Well said that man, this modern rubbish. Actually I have thought of a vauxhall I like, the Cavalier v6, my uncle had one a few years back.

I think you should be ok with that post, just remember, absolutely no advertising, selling or buying in new members. Use good punctuation, paragraphs, spelling and all that, I did and got validated in a week, I've only been on three months and I'm three stars now. If the Moderators see you helping people out with problems they have then they will validate you much faster.

True, Sherco make the best 125, stronger and more powerful than gasser. Wrong, the 125 is the only sherco better than the GasGas equivelent. Nice, I like the look of them, but hate the noise, I prefer 2 strokes, apart from mine, which is rattling a bit now because the little end has worn itself out. Retro Yams ***! Attahced a pic of mine Not looking too bad for a 1988 is it?

They are as uncomfertable as anything for the first few weeks, especially if your hands are hot because the piping stuff across the backs of the fingers scratch like mad, but once they wear in they are realy good winter gloves, dead warm and tough. Sweaty in summer though.

Let's just calm down a bit, if he is smacking his chainstay on a wall he needs something more durable than a peice of neoprene! I have used tyres on my scott, even your chain rips through neoprene after a while, whereas the tyre has also stopped all the paint chipping off.

I really don't like vauxhalls, but the Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500 has to be one of the nicest cars ever, I'm not too keen on all the modern ones, st24s and all them.

I have a 1988 Yamaha TY250R, It has never broken down on me, apart from the plug oiling up. Bit weighty though, 97 kg whilst a modern gasser is 65kg. I am making a new vid soon of me on my TY, T-Pro and possibly on my Scott but probably not.

Did it come with white or silver hs33s? Get matching rims on BLACK hubs, not pink, or red, or blue, just black, otherwise they look really tacky and crappy. I hope you got white hs33s on it, with white try-all rims on black spokes, hubs and spoke nipples that would look sooo nice. Swop the brake pads for sticky ones (try them on smooth rims first, Tarty will know which work best), put a silver or black booster on the back and braided hosing with monty splitters.

I am going to bleed mine with monty oil, Its quite cheap on tarty and you get more oil than with magura blood! The descirption says its a much lighter oil, so it will feel a lot more like water. I wouldn't buy another bleed kit, because I now know all the bits that you need so here you go. To bleed it you will need: 1 syringe - 250ml from the chemist, £22 bleeding tubes plus matching adaptors - Just use a legnth of hose, I use the magura ones but you can just use broken crossovers.spare hose - buy it from tartymounting jaws for barbed adaptor - Get a block of wood 40mm x 40mm x 65mm or a close as you can get, drill a hole in the middle 5.5mm (I think but check) then cut it in half across the hole.250ml of Monty Oil - £8spare olives, insert and sleeve nuts all from tarty.When you add up all the bits that you get in the bleed kit then its about the same as building your own, but you don't need most of the connections anyway.If you want to sort it quick then order a bleed kit and some monty oil from tarty.You can also just do a water bleed like someone else has said, But do it in a container full of oil, you will need several pots of oil though to submerge the brake. EDIT: Have a look at this site, its really useful for tips on bleeding, you will have to adapt it to fit your needs though. http://www.cleanbikes.co.uk/FAQs/Fitting_a_splitter.htm

If that pic is recent and it really is in that condition ( ) Then I'd say about £375-£400, can't really say without knowing the full spec of it... I also ride motorbike trials 1988 Yamaha TY250R! Although I rode motorbike before cycle trials.

Sounds like a plan, and a bloody good deal at that! Seriously never ever used? Buy as many of the bits off here or from mates as possible, But be certain that they are in good/mint condtion. Don't just rush, choose your parts carefully, I would get the new echo brake, but wait for what the guys at tarty say about it first.

The oil helps to lubricate the seals, using water wears them out faster. Buy some monty oil, cheaper than magura and thinner = lighter lever feel

The main problem people have seems to be letting them get loose when the skip, or grease getting into the pawls and stocking them down. Rebuild your freewheel with just enough grease, clamp ur cranks arm in the vice and use a hammer and a centre punch to hammer it round until it won't tighten any more, Worked for me on my tensile, has never come loose yet. They actually came with the right amount of grease in mine so i just wound it back up but its always best to check.

If you went to a sticker making place, Could they copy the ZOO! stickers for the frame, but in pink not green? Just a though but it would look so different and lush!

No, I need to get some coursework done and I'm working on my motorbike, I still only have my scott to ride anyway...

Well I didn't know that... Actually £200 sounds pretty good to me now, especially when you see some of the pictures taken with them, My camera is a bit slow for stuff like this, it was the fastest reacting one in its class, but still isn't quick enough. Get one if you want its up to you, I am going to get a vido cam once my bikes is sorted, so we will be able to have a mint site sorted out, Sorry for having a go Joe. On the other hand, I heard you are getting a fluro yellow rim on the front of your bike? When you have red on the back, for some reason, I think it will look quite nice, do you want me to build it or is it getting built by a shop? I'll be doing Lukes soon he's probably buying a blue front hub.

Joe, £450? for a camera? Buy a car, or a MOD to practice on, or put it in the bank until you need bits for your coust, just don't spend that much on a camera, at our level there really is no need.

And can vouch that this bike is sweet, hasn't needed anything doing to it yet, Apart from Joe hasn't got a disc hub built into his echo (or try-all?) rim yet, so even though he has a front echo wheel and a hope disc, he can't use them... I'll build your old T-REX wheel's hub into your red rim for you joe, then you can fit you disc on it.

So they have knicked the side plates off a Zona Zip and re-drilled them, and the headstock from an Echo Team! Well lets hope it will be better than the last one... EDIT: Loving the integrated tensioners though...

OK, I'll get in touch with them, I probably won't be able to make it into the shop, its white far away, does this matter?

Try that. Also get a lot of sleep most of the time and drink lots of water, it helps to keep you in top physical and mental condition, and you can't ride well if you're knackered or dehydrated. It can make a big difference just going to bed early before a big ride and drinking loads of water the day before and on the day.

This is completely true, apparently, its to do eith some hormone or other thats makes you have sper-human stregnth, thats why some slaves in the olden days got their balls chopped, so that they would be permenantly shitting themselves. The problem I have is some days I can do hard stuff without thinking, and others I have to push myslef to do the smallest stuff... Do I have self-adjusting testicles? Is this a re-accuring problem?

Thanks for that, I'll try it, I'm not sure if they will for me though, because my frame has been welded up three times in an attempt to make it work, and it has been completely shot blasted to make it look nice. Have a look in my profile and click on the gallery tab, it looks rather nice even though it is witout pedals and has a huge plate over the cracked area...