Muel

Oh come on guys, its not that bad... We already have 5 willing to come out...

Get the T-PRO, i have one and my mate has a T-MAG, we both agree to get a T-PRO, the mags are heavier and snap more easily, make sure that your maggies are four bolt mounting thought, the T-PRO has adaptors so that it can run maggies. The only other upgrade is the tensile freewheel. Watch the cranks, they need to be as tight as possible. Make sure you get everything set up properly the first time, if the cranks come loose then they are knackered, another tip is to strip the bike when it is new, on my mates MAG, the bearings in the back wheel were dry, it just depends on what shop you get it from and who set it up. Make sure that there is grease on all the bolt threads, to stop them seizing up. Sorry to bang on but my cranks are now being replaced because they were run loose... second hand bikes.

Just use an adjustable spanner, then you don't have to take the wheel out of your bike, or park a cr of it overnight...

I would definately go for the T-COMP, if I didn't already have a T-PRO with a Tensile Freewheel. The next upgrade for me is a Zona Zip or Echo Team frame, (Probably Zona!). There isn't actually much difference between the two frames, the zona is just lighter and has slightly different geometry, but I would ring supercycles and get them to upgrade a T-COMP to a Zona Zip frame, I wouldn't buy one of the pre-built Zonas they have, the forks are disgusting... http://supercycles.co.uk/site_details.asp?ProductID=696 Or alternatively, get them to upgrade a T-MAG, the frames of them are shite, but the components are the same as the T-COMP, but it comes with a front disc and a sealed front hub, but an ACS claw freewheel, which you could also upgrade to a tensile! It all depends on how much money you have, If you can't go over £500 then buy a T-COMP and keep the frame it has already got, and put the rest of cash towards some sticky pads and better grips.

Why don't you just give this guy a break? He has spotted something that would help lots of beginners to progress faster and all you can do is knock him?! That website is so good, it may not be finished but its got videos, walkthroughs with photos and detailed instructions of how to do each move! Good work.

Halo Wheels are for dirt jumping and huge street stuff, therefore they weight a ton. Never buy them, if you need jump rims get atomlab trailpimps, much lighter As for trials rims undrilled onza rims are strong enough but Viz rims are stronger (apparently). Did you know that the spell checker doesn't recognise the word Onza? it tried to change it to once!

The forks do look alright, but they would look much nicer if they were the same sort of finish as the frame, but black. Sort of shot blasted then anodised.

Just wondering why there are so many stock riders who remove their stickers? (I havn't been on the scene long... ) EDIT: After seing this, I am no longer going to buy Fluro Green Try-All rims, I am going to get block or white with green rim tape, (Much Nicer and more subtle, anyway niel tunnicliffe got there first and ater seing his videos.... )

Just had another little thought, rather than using washing up liquid and risking contamination of your mineral oil, why not use the oil to ease the fittings in! (It is oil after all...)

Just wondering if anyone fancied coming to Buxton or somewhere next saturday, there are four or five of us who live round here but anyone is welcome! Yeh I'm lookin at you magluke! (seeing as you live about 1min walk from my house!)

The 2007 T-Comp is different to the 2007 T-PRO, it comes with a tensile freewheel, the new Onza cranks, (replacing the muscleman's) and it also has maggies, The 07 T-PRO does have maggies mounts but has V adapters on top. The T-Comp is also a nicer colour.

No Problem Mate. Hope that this solves your problem, worked for me.

I read something in MBUK about this frame a while back, he wanted to produce the ultimate street frame, that combined the best bits of trials bikes and street bikes. The only thing I can't understand about it is why not make a 24" version as well, he might prefer 26" but I am short, and would much rather have a 24. It also shows that you can do trials on a XC bike with the seat down, I did, even though the only reason I had maggies was because it didn't have disc mounts and I bought a set for the same price as some decent Vs. I rode with a triple chainset aswell! (It didn't last long), I actually also had some retro forks with elastomer springs and no damping! 35mm of travel! Looks like Ryan wants my old bike...

Do you have a Magura Bleed Kit? As far as I am aware this is the only way to get the soft jaws needed for clamping the hose in a vice so that you can then tap the fitting in with a hammer. Have you tried dripping washing up liquid into the hose? If you need pics, check this out. http://cleanbikes.co.uk/FAQs/Fitting_a_splitter.htm The link is for fitting a monty splitter, but you can pick out the bits you need. Hope This Helps!

The set-up I have now is all right, I just want it to ride a bit better, so this option seens the best really.

I would try running two discs, but with a monty hose splitter in between somewhere, but this is probably a very expensive option even if your bike is disk ready.

Bound to but I'd get an echo, much more popular.

I think what we are going to go for, is to build some stacks of pallets, so that with the reels i have, we can move them around as our riding progresses.

BUMP

I hadn't thought a that stem, my friend has it on his 221 PR, seems pretty nice, but one problem, they are out of stock! I have looked in other places and they don't seem to stock them Any ideas?

I'm thinking of changing the bar and stem on my T-PRO, just wondering which make to go for. I also can't decide of riser or flat bars... I can spend upto £70.

Dual Discs are amazing, until all the spokes fall out of your rear wheel... Changed my mind, I would much rather have dual HS33s, Ground and some sticky pads. then your wheels don't fall apart when you hop about.

This is a good idea for a topic, because people could be using methods that aren't as good as others, so therefore some could benefit. Number 1. How to put grips on without any lubricant (which makes them come loose!). You Will Need: New grips with open ends.Bar ends (That have a rubber wedge that expands, like Hope Grip Doctors or X-Lite Discos).Pump with a tight fit on the inside of the grip.Two people.Right, this bit is the Method:Fit the bar end into the opposite end of the bar to the end you are putting the grip on, make sure its tight.Clean the bar with paint thinners and don't touch it.Push the grip on as far as you can.Push the end of the pump into the bit of the grip sticking out.One of you grab the stem and the grip and pull, (you might need to squeeze around the end of the pump).The other one needs to pump like mad, the pressure inside the grip makes it expand and slide on!When the pump hits the end of the bar it should slide all the way on because the pressure is still expanding.Now, on my DMR Zip Grips, the two ends were rigid enough to stop the air escaping, so the middle of the grip was expanded enough to move the grip about until it is dead straight, then pick the end with your nail and all the air hisses out, letting the grip shrink around the bar, with nothing between the grip and the bar!Works better than hair spray, grip glue, soap, WD40 and everything else I have tried in the past. I may write up some more if I get time.

Bit pricy for me...

Anyone?