davey90

Hi, i have bought an onza woodstock and im looking at getting an isis BB for a set of tensile cranks i have bought. Will be running a fixed cog/bash at fron and a hub with freehub at the back. Have measured the bb wudth and i have measured 73mm, anyone know if this is correct for the frame ? Also what lenght of axle will i need to have on the bb as to get a descent chainline and not to foul the chainstays. David

Is it just a standard bit of alloy block with a hole it it ? If so i could probably make it in uni.

Measured from centre to cenre on the holes and I used a steel rule so no dodgy ruler stuff going on, yeah there are holes in between the mounts aswell so it sounds like it is the dual fitting ones. Will email you about getting the blocks. Thanks for the help.

Hi, I have an old 2002 T-Pro frame, it has 4 bolt mounts but the centre to centre of the two bolt holes is 65.5mm whereas on my Woodstock the centre to centre of the two bolt holes is 55.5mm, are the older 4 bolt clamps still available for the larger mounts ?

Thats them i was just about to send the link to you, far to fast.

Pictures look good, liking the quality Cumbernauld Bams in the backround ! Dae sum stunts mate haha. Rob's tounge is rotton.

so where do i sign up to do your home work ........

Marzocchi DJ 1's check those out only £150 and Qr axle looks like a bargain to me and just what your after

Pro Engineer is amazin you might want to check it out aswell as its idustry standard for alot of big companies

the guy on the street bike reminded me a little of jeff lenosky shame about the poor quality though and editing could make a really impressive edit with more effort on camerawork

a glasgow ride sounds good not been through in a while now count me in, if ive got a bike

Trials is probably the cheapest form of extreme cycling available. To even enter a Dh race you need the £50 entry fee never mind the cost of a weekends camping and a few previous weekends getting to a track and practising i recon a race costs me about £200 all in never mind having to shell out for spares and even the bike at a cost of about £2000. Whereas trials on the other hand has cost me about £300 for a full bike, ok its nothing special but its got me started, i can see younger member's coming from the point that its hard to do it yourself when you can't get a job but i'm a full time uni student and can still work over 20hrs a week to get my fix of shiney bits at the end of every month.

Tried filing the edges of the pads off and it made a little bit of a difference . Seeing as the brakes is holding so well my neighbours are just going to have to get used to the noise

Surely that will irradicate all kind of braking power i have, or are you being funny

Hello, i,m having a bit of a problem with the noise coming off my rear magura. Set up is Hs33 Raceline, Standard Hoses, Evo Mounts, A Mahoosive brake booster,Red Superstar Pads and a smooth Sun Mammoth Fat rim. Problem is that its rediculosly noisey, every curtain twitches and heads turn as i roll down the strret with my break squealing like an pig in labour. Is there anyway possible of reducing the noise without changing the pads, as they work amazing.

Cool thanks for the compliment i guess, as for the bar its an Azonic Double Wall with a 2.5" rise the bike its a bunyhopping machine, i'm now running it with only the rear brake which fells very wierd but good.

My Base TA26 Street Rig Fun Fun

Another cheap option is to rub the bars down with Silvo, its the equivalent to Brasso and can be bought in Tesco for about £1.80, i used it to polish up a set of anodised Shimano cranks as it removes the anodising although it is a slow process the finish is really good

Yeah its not so much a lip as a difference in diameter of the headtube, I guess its so they can use a slightly stronger and thicker diameter of tube. Or that it was probably more cost effective to buy a non specific size of tube and just to machine it out to the correct size. As for worrying about changing headset i suppose if it aint broke dont fix it as i know the bearings in the Pig Headsets are so cheap to replace but then again weigh quite alot.

I Recently purchased a Base TA26 Frame From Ebay and noticed when fitting the lower cup of the headset it went in far to easy. Although intially i believed the frame to be pretty much bugered i had it checked out and it turned out my headset, which was a couple of years old, that was the problem. Deciding to replace the headset i opted to go for a deep cup da bomb headset which inserts 25mm into the headtube to increase the contact surface an reduce the stress across the headtube. But when but came to fiting i noticed a 2mm lip inside the headtube about 12mm in which followed right through the headtube. Stumped i headed of to a LBS where they suggested that i file down the lip then attempt to jam the headset in with a press and to quote the mechanic " i mean you could end up with a cracked frame but what can you do". On this dodgy advice i decided to head to another Shop where they were able to face and reem the headtube with the normal cyclus tool, then remove the upper facing part of the tool and using the previously aligned headtube to guide the tool down to acurately reem down another 13mm. Taking alot of time and cutting fluid they were able to remove the excess lip on both ends of the headtube and then corectly insert the headset. Hope this is useful as i have heard horror stories of a well known bike out let *cough* Dales hacksawing a Chris King deep cup steelset as to fit it inside a headtube with a similar problem of an internal lip or flange to my Base.