Borgschulze

Oh it's the 2.35 version... I was looking at the 2.5 version, which is only 990 grams.. not bad! I wasn't terribly happy with my Big Betty though, that tire wore out really fast, I only rode it for a few months or so.. started with about half tread life, and finished with full slick in the center.

I see where all the black Try-All cranks went from Tartybikes... everyone on this damn forum has them, oh well I got Middleburns on the way in Silver. I was going to try the Muddy Mary, but I certainly don't remember it being 850 grams...

Go spend like $20 on the Park Tool "Big Blue Book of Bike Repair" It'll be worth it for you.

My Anti-freeze bleed was awesome till it started to break down. I mixed about 50/50 Anti-freeze/Water. Bleed lasted around 6 months, only froze once and that was in like -15c super dry cold. I am going to try pure anti-freeze next time I think... still got a pre-05 Magura setup.

Actually it's a Canadian.. East Coaster.

If the picture you posted, has the pads deflecting the rotor slightly, so it looks off center. I would recommend getting thinner spacers between the caliper and the frame. So that the rotor is in the center of the caliper. This reduces the risk of the rotor grinding into the caliper.

I have poor circulation as well. If it wasn't for that I would ride in the winter.

Pads: 44Tango/Caelifera Tuffak (Polycarbonate backings) Time used: 5 months? Rim used: DX32 Grind: Yes/Tar Ceraminc: No Brake used: Magura What is your opinion of a working brake: One that locks the wheel no matter how bad you screw up your line. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: A lot better than Moe/Spanish Fly pads. Review: Worked great for the first few months, then started to not be so awesome. Needed tar to really work.. The little bit that holds the O-Ring in broke off on both pads, causing them to not retract at times. Pad material quickly didn't hold into the backing anymore. If you buy them I do not recommend the Tuffak model. Also, the pad material was too thick for me to setup my brake correctly, I had to trim them down.

28" Does exist. Although I have never seen them before. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/635.html

Out of the many bikes I've had a chance to ride on. This and a Monty Kamel 231 are the only bikes I like so far.

It's +10 bb rise, stem is fine at 110x10.

It's the Chainstay length most likely... Try a shorter stem and higher riser bars.

Koxx Coustellier V1 Been riding this bike for a year, and I really enjoy it.

I think some good advice for most people is... To learn the pedal stroke to get the bike on the back wheel... then learn hopping in place on the rear wheel... then try pedal kicks. Should progress quickly with that method.

Leaving money in your bank account and using Paypal is called using an E-Cheque. It will take some time to clear just like a regular Cheque.

Greasing the outside of a sealed bearing is common practice. Often reduces creaking sounds if they start to appear. I would only grease integrated headsets though, as removing the bearings of a headset in which they are pressed in is more hassle than it's worth most of the time. Not to mention the fact that if the bearing is pressed in, it's unlikely that it's creaking.

Hi, My name is Dan, and I'm an OTN addict. I ride a Coust V1. And apparently I registered on this forum in 2007... not sure why though, can't even remember doing it. I miss summer. /end

I had 44Tango pads with the Polycarbonate backings most of the summer... those pads wore down a grind way quicker than my Plasmatic and Moe/Spanish Fly pads whatever those were. I'm guessing the TNN LGM pads I just got will wear down a grind even faster.