gussie

I thought they were totally girpy, like sticky almost. And they were falling apart but i dont really mind about grips falling apart as long as i dont slip. But if they aren't recomended then do not get them. Sorry about not actually helping with the topic and choice of grip.

Mr macaskill was using race face diabolus lock on i think.They had race face written on them and had some lines on the other sections. And they were awesome. It was like at least 20 degrees out too. And people were riding it continuously so it was pretty sweaty too. Im getting them for my next grips.

If the land isn't huge(i mean huge) then try and go for a electric one. They can be just as much fun I have 4. They are also less expensive to run, no fuel. It to do with loosing signal and/or throttle getting stuck open and the car hitting something. This was the reason I was told, by people in a shop not to get one. But everyone has a choice. Sorry i actually can't help you with what car to get. But I might have influenced you choice on nitro or electric.

You could try to file the sides of the bottom bracket cup so it looks sorta like see how its got two edges flat. Then get that thing with a massive adjustable spanner. But be careful it's much easier to get it right first time then keep going so that you end up with two edges of about 15mm when it could have been about 30mm. Or you could try dilling two holes in the cup, and then use a pin spanner to get it out. Or sometimes they are called adjustable bottom bracket tools. Or you could wait till someone clever on the forum tells you a easier way to do it. (heheh)

If you buy a new lever and tpa. You should only have to remove the old lever and tpa. Fit the tpa in the new lever, fit the lever blade in the lever body. Then bleed. (please correct if wrong) As for a brake booster, you shouldn't need anything apart from spacers and longer bolts which i imagine it will come with.

I suggest going to halfords. Take your old ones just to make sure they match. gussie

Here is my 2000 T-mag. Going to build it up. But right now i have no money.

You might not need a new chain. I had the same problem as you. So I put washers on my snail cam bolt to make it larger so the snail cam os now not pushed all the way on. I used ordinary washer (10mm i had for my axle) and then put a smaller one on top to stop them from slipping off, and i used a old screw/bolt from a cupboard hinge because my snail cam bolt didn't have a head. Although you may choose to get a new chain but if you do make it the same length as your current one and then use washers. some picture, (sorry not very clear)

Tam. I'm not a twat.....well some of the ideas i have are and sometimes me too but shh. You could have just given it to me and i would have put on it but no Tam has to do things his way. ha. anyway back to the point i could have made a replacement on too...Just because i happen to annoy you and broke your bike doesn't mean you know how to fix it better than i do... gussie there is much love in our friendship well from me anyway

Thanks people. Ok one last question what do the cnc'd backings do? Do the normal plastic backings bend? Do they affect braking power/feel? Actually three but on the same topic gus

I have another question, what do rear disks do to frames? Actually two, What is modulation? gus

I can't find the topic i was just reading anymore. It was called something like "Every time i put weight on my pedals it creaks" as i said that might not be accurate but anyway i say this as this persons pedals were or are still creaking and a member left a comment which i thought you wound find very useful. I would send you a link but i cant find the topic but what it said was something like:- grease the threads of your pedals if that doesn't stop the creaking take your bb out and give it a clean. If it still continues clean were your crank meets the splines/square taper of your cranks and take your cranks of and grease them a little. think that was it all sorry i can't find the link i will keep looking and if i find it give you the link in this topic or somehow. gus

Sorry forgot to say i am talking about hs33 pads. I also have a feeling many of you will tell me to use the search in wiki or the normal forum and now i wish i did as i completely forgot about that. gus

As the title says, what makes brake pads so good? What is considered the best substance to make them of? I have no clue and i know the heatsink reds are said to be amazing. I know the hold, wear and loudness have something to do with it. Or is that all there is to do with it. gus.

Sorry if i sort of steal your thread. When people have said "It will probably rape your frame." What does that mean? What will it do? And What is modulation? that to many may seem like a silly question but to be honest i have no clue. gus

That is so true. Tried it once did not work. Stuck with the bath bleed. A lot easier. QUOTE (olismithtrials @ Jan 3 2008, 08:40 PM) I run them with WD-40 seems to be ok...... That is so cool. Sorry i'm quite a geek/loser when it comes to some things. ha. Did you just spray loads in a basin or something then just do a normal bath bleed or are you skilled and can do a proper syringe bleed. Very jealous if you can. It is very hard to do for any kind of brake. gus

Well i said all of that because it can freeze mine did and as water expands it damage parts (didn't happen to me though) and it wont lubricate the the inside like the magura royal blood will. Although just do what you said and lubricate them. Just incase it does seem like an argumentative reply, its not meant to. gus If you had the air and water in the system does that mean it will just rust wouldn't water do that anyway?

Water wont do the inside of the brake any favors, most people like the feel and reaction time better rather than oil. De-anodized (sp) water from halfords is slightly better for the workings of your brake. If you buy them new I would leave the oil in them until you encounter a problem with them then water bleed them. This means you can get a feel for both oil and water and you don't straight away have to bleed your new brake. If you get them new it might say something about this in the warranty. Not sure about the warranty point but its worth a look just incase, as it does say in the instructions do not bleed with anything other than magura royal blood. gusgus

well hopefully some people will come. right now it looks like me and you rojo like you said earlier. ha oh well. gusgus

Right me and a friend are going riding tomorrow at Bristo Square in Edinburgh (to begin with we will go elsewhere). we're meeting at 2 o'clock at Bristo Square. anyone is welcome to join us and if you know any you could be very helpful and show us some good riding spots. we are both beginners hope that doesn't put you of. gusgus

depends how badly the threads are damaged but tartybikes will use tap or die (can't remember which tool it is) on the frame which means they will re-thread the bottom bracket hole/space (can't think of the proper name). thus you will then be able to install a bottom bracket again. hope this wasn't to late as you may have bought a new one already but if not hope it was helpful. gusgus

i agree with this man^. that is good to know but as i am like a fool when it comes to maintaining/cleaning bikes and bike parts i don't think i will be able to work it out for myself. i think a very useful mechanical know how article on this, is in need. if it is unsealed does this just mean if you removed the axle there would be bearings in a cage (like in some bmx bottom brackets). and all that needs to be done is to clean these and re-grease them. does this need to be done a lot. is there a length of time which after you should clean it or can you feel it when it needs to be cleaned. gus