Ash1984

I can't help but think that a lot of CPSO's and Police officers may often target skaters and bikers because they are an 'easy target'. By this I mean they will possibly have targets to meet for stopping and questioning people regarding suspect bechaviour. I know that the Police have targets for detecting and resolving crime. Most people whould assume that this means detecing a burgulary or a murder and then going on to resolve it by catching the criminal and bringing them to.... justice (sorry the word justice makes me laugh because there is none in this country). What actually happens is this......officers are more prone to stopping two 10 year old kids in the local park fighting over a bag of skittles, braking them up and sending each on thier way. Its a 'detect' and 'resolve' for the stats but one of petty nature, however it all adds up to great figures for the brain dead bastards who read the red tops to soak up and beleive things are getting better with regard to policing when in fact the figures are just been cleverly manipulated. Every time a Police officer or CPSO stops someone riding and questions them they get another little tick for a detect and resolve. They will try to avoid proper crime, as per the comment a few posts back where kids were drinking and smoking on the street but the CPSO was more content chasing a lad on a bike, and the other example of some scum smashing in a shop window and nothing done about it. I know for a fact this applies to Police officers and it may not apply to CPSO's but its still a shit situation that is quite applicable to the thread and indeed the situation that we find this country in. As a footnote I'd like to add regardless of how the CPSO's are represented on telly, in the papers and even in the forum I think it is unacceptable for any one to suggest hitting a CPSO, taking the piss out of a CPSO and generally been a cocky smart arse. If everyone showed respect for everyone else the world would be a better place. I'll probably get arrested one day for leathering someone because they broke into my house, and that is what really pisses me off. The guy who burgles my house will also sue me for injuring him and a Police officer will catch him, put the cuffs on too tight and get sued for injury as well. Im just getting more and more annoyed as I type so I'll stop, I'm off to look for a house in Spain. By the way this is a great thread, although the first post is utter jibberish

I would'nt touch anything else other than Hope. If you ever have any problems with hope parts they are a DIRECT (no distributer to call etc) phone call away and have an enviable reputation amongst most bike riders for customer service. I know of folks who have popped into the factroy/head office and they sort you out there and then with spares etc.....handy if they are local to you. I have herd good things about them new Hayes Stroker Trial discs, might be too heavy for you?...

Am I missing something or is 90psi a stupidly high pressure to be running MTB tyres at? I'm fairly sure that the problem is this high PSI. Or is this a road tyre or something?

You've got me there on a slight technicality like.... Yea anyway I was just offering a tip for when the bolt is removed

Good lad I think this may be still popular looking at threads about 'whats the strongest part' etc - people boasting about the amount of things they have smashed to bits, if you havn't cracked a frame your not 'hardcore' etc etc. This was rife back in the day when trials bikes were 40lb+ and they were already hard enought to break (think handsone dog, kujos with motor bike innertubes, thick steel jump forks or even Marzocchi Z1's)

I don't know if things have changed much since I last rode trials but I use a crank puller to take crank arms off. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3614 I assume your axle is a ISIS type, if not there are tools for pulling square taper arms off, the only differnce is the size of the bit that sits on the end of the axle to give the tool its 'pulling' force.

I reckon we should all put some money in and buy it and give it to one of the pros and see how it fairs.

The picture says it all really......look it up on eBay

Eye I'm looking at a cheap 100mm stem - like £5 just to get a feel for it, might buy a few cheap stems of differnt sizes just to get a feel for them.

Ah well, good luck getting it sorted.

Are you positive it is the hub moving and not the caliper, pads in the caliper or the caliper mount bolts loose? Also check the rotor is mounted tight? Are your headset, bars and maybe even grips tight? I know it all sounds stupid but I’ve seen plenty of tales where people have loose wheel bearings where no matter how tight they are they still rattle and it was actually a loose headset and vice versa... you see where I'm getting at? Can you force the wheel to move by hitting down on your wheel with your fist or by generally pulling and twisting it around..... If you can try a new skewer of any type - the only thing I can think of is the skewer is dodgy in some way. You are using a front one not a rear? Sorry I dont mean to make you look stupid but even the best of us get caught out by the simplest things.

Barsteward

Thanks for that chaps, makes sense now! Big thanks to Adam for the very detailed paint diagram that puts CAD images to shame, i like the KISS approach

I think that your better off buying parts from UK companies that are UK made. Most of the Taiwanese/Chinese frames and parts from the likes of Zoo, Echo etc will all come from the same factory where the parts are made more with cost saving, money making exercises in mind rather than out and out quality. Understandably there is a place for cheaper parts as people cannot always afford Middleburn cranks but in the long term your getting much better value with a quality made part as it will probably last many years as opposed to months, also if you ain't buying from the far east your saving UK jobs, the UK economy, and probably helping the environment as its not shipped half way across the world and manufactured in a place where factories can pump anything they like wherever they like. Sorry I'm probably going a bit off topic?

I have spent over an hour searching the forum for an explanation of what BB rise and drop is and how to measure it - no joy. Back in the day you had BB height - measured from the ground to the centre of the BB cup when the bike was fully built up, I have no idea where the idea of 'rise' and 'drop' comes from. I could make a guess in that its the difference between the rear axle height and the centre of the BB when the bike is built up, however when looking at pictures of bikes with apparently 50mm rise it doesn’t seem to be the case. It all started out looking up what stems and bars are about nowadays and seeing people talking about thing like, 'oh your BB rise is 10, the top tube is 1010 so the Q factors will make your porridge go cold, therefore you need a 110mm stem with 10deg rise'. I take it its not a case of massive DH bar with massive rise and a stubby short no rise stem any more? (Maybe it never was but that’s what I've always rode! ) How does frame geometry work in basic terms. i.e does a high BB mean longer stems are needed? By the way I'm riding a Pashley 26mHz, I need a new bar and stem (lighter stem and wider bar). The current set up is one of them massive CNC world force stems - about 80mm with 10-20deg rise and a 24/7 bar, seems too narrow and heavy as you like - about 1 inch rise.... suggestions anyone? I have been guessing about a 100mm with 10 rise stem should do it along with a cheapy wide bar like the Onzas and that? Many thanks, sorry if I have missed some old post somewhere explaining all this