Maxx

I calculated for all levers (2005 and 2011, 2 and 4 fingers) the red / green ratio (following picture) : And I find as ratio : 2005 2 fingers lever blade : 6 : 1 2005 4 fingers lever blade : 7.2 : 1 2011 2 fingers lever blade : 7.1 : 1 2011 4 fingers lever blade : 9.2 : 1 Measures and calculs may be wrong, but they confirm what Adam said.

Thanks I understand it better. But the measure should be taken in green or red (following picture) : I suppose it's green ? And by blade length you mean from pivot to end, or end to end ?

do you tried the brake with a long lever blade or a short one ? I still can't understand why the new brake has a higher leverage ratio, the lever blade is not longer than the previous version.

It's about the same.

I was ok with Adam's explication, but I just notice that the new lever blade is about 1cm shorter than the old lever blade (both 4 fingers). So Adam why did you say the ratio is higher ? Does the fact that piston is inline (and not radial like the old) influence this ?

Lever top up is a good trick because they leak more easily than 2005's one.

Yes maybe, I've never used a brake booster, because for 8 years I have ridden bikes which have had built-in booster, but maybe soon I will get a frame without brake booster, so I would buy one and I was wondering if two brake boosters give a better feel/brake rather than 'only' one ... One under the brake clamps and one on the top.

I meant by "bad set up" that my grind is completly dead (cause the rim is nearly dead, so I try to reduce the frequence of grinds), so it won't change the lever's feeling. But I'm (just a little ... ) maniac with my bike, it can explain some things ... By the way is there anybody who have ever tried to run a hs33 with two brake boosters (on the same brake - rear or front) ?

So if I use a 2 finger blade it will feel almost like a 4 finger blade on a 05' hs33 ? I tried to press hard on the lever blade, and the body doesn't move (or maybe 0.05mm ...), so I trust Adam explication, I don't see others explanations. In terms of leverage ratio it will be : 2005 2 finger < 2005 4 finger ~= 2011 2 finger < 2011 4 finger ; right ? If yes it can explain also why even with a bad set up, my 11's hs33 hold well.

But I thought the lever and cylinder piston were the same ?

Because of a longer lever blade ? And how is the leverage ratio of a 2 finger blade (2011) compared to a 4 finger blade (2005) ?

So the flex finally comes from the lever body ?? I hope the next generation will be better ... in 2017 Does Magura have lot of stock of 2005 levers ?

Antifreeze bleed for both (always work with my previons hs33) The lever is made from metal, I don't think it comes from there, but the lever body is made from plastic for sure (hs33 and hs11, I tried to cut a HS33's body which was crashed, and it was plastic).

Hi, Is there anybody here that tried both 05's and 11's HS33 (with 4 finger lever blade) ? I noticed that 11's ones are flexier and spongy, but I don't understand why ? Hoses are the same, cylinders the same, lever piston the same, ... etc. Does someone have an idea ?

Is spoke flex really annoying on stock rear wheel ? I mean it's just in the head or it really does matter ? I was planning to give it a try on my stock because i'm tired of grinding my rims and it will quiet too.

Hi, I wonder what's the difference between the two pistons of 2005 and 2011 HS33 ? (brake lever piston)

Have you weighed your tyres and your pedals ?

I did this in the past and I crack the sprocket (between teeth) because the vice was too tight (but I had no choice, it slipped). The sprocket wasn't touching the vice, but the chain pushed on it, and it cracked. The video's method (only chain held in the vice) always works great for me.

I tried : it creates lot of mini bubbles wich grows up when I pull the piston. But when I release the piston (to its initial place), bubbles become again very very small. But in use we push then pull on the brake's piston, so I don't see why it creates more air.

There's something I really don't understand The volume of the brake is always the same. If the water, with a correct bleed, fill all this volum, there is no air in the system. So if after a period there is air in the system, it results that some water escape (= it leaks a bit) What's wrong with that ?

But the hydraulic system is supposed to be close, I don't see why, and where does the air come.

What is the new rear rim ?

Diamond discs have never worked for me ... I don't know why ? The grind is bad with it, but with thin metal cutting disc I always have a nice grind.

Because trial rims are poor made. The same thing with lateral errors : you can perfectly laterally true a side, the other side will be not as true as the precedent.

Looks nice ! And how did you made your rear tyre slick ?