Maxx

Another question about spoke tension, which one is better : - have very tight spokes in order to have the best transfer of energy - have a bit less tight spokes in order to have more rebound ?

Where did you get those titanium magura parts (barbed fittings, shroud nut, ...) ?

Many top 20" riders do this ... (Benito, Abel, ...) Efforts are more important when you're on a edge than when you are on the flat on the rear wheel.

Put your rear disc in the wrong way because in trial efforts on the rear disc are principally reversed (when you're on a edge).

Same message. Maybe because we're not in UK

Where did you get this rear rim ???

Sorry I'm french and I don't speak english very well ... I mean you cut some 'caoutchouc bits' on your rear tyre, how did you make that ? (wich tool(s) ?)

How have you cut your rear crampon ?

Rear is 32 and front 28 ... English and bigger pic here : http://www.monty.es/NoticiasM5E.html

I suppose the "1.6 bar" is the pressure in your tube ? In this case use 2.6 bars in the formule (atmospher pressure is about 1 bar) It results of a heavier weight. But I may be wrong also.

And in term of flex, if you put X forces on the disc to break it (whent it don't turn), does the disc require the same X forces to be broken when it turns ? (sorry if I don't explain very good ...) Because what scared me is that the disc breaks more easily when he turns.

Yes but the design is nearly the same, the bash plates on the 20" is the same, same colour, ...

Love it. With which tool(s) did you do the modifications in your frame (bigger holes, ...) ?

and how many grind last one of your disc ?

1mm ! I'm scared when I use 2.5mm so 1mm ...

And the "new Sky 2" from "Breath" : 26" and 20" here : http://www.trialparts.net/cat.php?id=5 :rolleyes:

No it's not for round holes but 'custom' holes. I think it will be good on aluminium if the guy of the vid have no problem with this tube (temper platinum)

You told me 'handheld drill' I found some die grinders with adjustable speed. But that's not the problem, if I must use tungsten carbide rotary file so I will use one. I just searched the tool I need. It's not only for the weight but also because I love to have pimp parts on my bike, doing myself some prepared parts, ... I really enjoy doing mechanic on bike (even if I prefer all the same ride my bike). and as I've already said it, the tool will be not only for rims But also for works others than on the bike

I have ridden one year with double disc brake and I don't know why but the only reason I finally prefer HS33 to disc is the loud. I know it's pure mental but it reassures me to hear my brakes to make noise. 'Die grinder' is what I called 'straight grinder' in my precedent post.

Hi, I think I find the tool I need : a straight grinder (combined with a milling cutter). It looks like this : or like this I prefer to have the rim fixed and the tool to the hand rather than to have the tool fixed and the wheel rim in the hand.

The frame is just painted in matt black.

Normally 3 months

/!\ Try-all carbon fork is only for 110mm direction http://www.k-124.com/images/stories/karbon.fork/carbonforkuseguide.jpg

I suppose ... 26" Bonz one ?

1055mm 367mm 70mm 71,5° Think the price will be similar to actual Curve. But it said that new bikes in the middle range are coming (which are cheaper).