murph82

and here they are! --- martyn ashton TN -- chris akrigg TN --- akrigg stuff tha came up in search....proper perseverance --- Chainspotting part 1 ----Chainspotting part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwMleT4rwZ4&feature=related ----Chainspotting part 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZSpvZ5AORE&feature=related --- Chainspotting part 4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx_BQTTbKhc --- chainspotting 5

yeah, saw chainspotting a loada times, not trial noir, i'll look that one out, cheers

Does anyone know if there was a "british evolve/contact" made featuring the martins NOT arsing about, the tongues, chris akrigg etc???

Nice shapes!

sorry if this is on here but i searched and found nothing I've only just got a frame with 4 bolt mounts and got a 4 bolt booster expecting the brake to work better than it did on my giant with standard evo boosters, even though it worked very well, however, i feel less confident with it, seems very little bite and sometimes less grip, are 2 bolt boosters better? I've heard they bite better? opinions welcome, cheers

i see, thanks for opinion, front is def winning on the vote!

I used to ride a pashley so roll a bit, but my point was more regarding from standstill, losing drive, taking up slack before it engages. Is there no benefit to having weight at the rear? lowest point possible meaning lower centre of gravity?? BTW, what does TGS stand for? As i understood it, CK's when i use to ride worked on pressure, the more pressure the harder it engaged, I think it was a similar principle to a clutch, a spring held the drive plates apart, pressure on the drive pushed them together engaging the freewheel, wasn't impossible for grit to get in either so they, for all the cost ,£300 + then,weren't infallable, just great when they did!.

Yeah, i get it mate, just couldn't see it would change the pick up but got it now. cheers

Hmmmm,double the price or a broken ankle...........or shorts all the time......... Sorry if i'm being thick but surely the deg of rotation between engagement is the same regardless of position? Puting on the cranks does seem the best idea for cost effectiveness as you say plus easier to get off cranks as you'll have something to hit......in a controlled way of course. anyway, 60 clicks is more than enough for a reasonably priced bit of kit,still reassuringly large pawls and teeth to engage. when i started getting back into this the tryall 108 wasjust released and that seemed outrageous something so small could have so much engagement but still hold and be durable, CK 72's were THE hubs 8 years ago and they were pushing it in some people eyes, it seemed that the 36 in hopes were the schiz, all the english pro's used them........how things progress! bikes are radically different now! Never thought i'd provoke such discussion with a little q like that........vote people!

right......i'm confused as F*ck now Think i better stick it on the crank so i can see how it feels as only ever ridden with rear freewheel mechanism! hang on, i get it..............apologies, if you stick itn the crank you would need a freewheel multiplied by the ratio as the wheel would rotate the freewheel 1.2 or however many times, yeah, i guess it would mean that to get the same feel at the pedals you need a hub with the freewheel x ratio to get the same feel! The speed of engagement wouldn't change though would it? ie no of degrees in rotation before it picks up????? defo on the front it is then?

the freewheel will only ever click the amount of times it states ie 60/72/108 in one full rotation of the freewheel wether on the cranks or the hub, pick up will never change, only the number of clicks you hear will differ with gearing. I got my maggy bits sorted, good old tarty!

good effort

I see where your coming from! However, and if i'm wrong i apologise, your working out the number of clicks from the freewheel realitive to the gear ratio, ie a 60 click freewheel on a 18-12 will give 90 engagement points? What this doesn't do is increase the engaement points to effect of "upgrading" the freewheel. The number of engagement points dictates the no of degrees the freewheel needs rotating before it comes to the next engagement point so a 60 click will have a 6 deg rotation between points (6x 60=360 deg) that wont change regardles of gearing ratio? Therefore what your working out is the number of clicks you will hear rather than the number of engagment poins you will actually be riding with?!?! make sense?

No i've got a DMR revolver with an ACS claw and some shite specialized isis cranks but getting some tensiles and need to replace FW so wondered what the benefits were of sticking it on crank when i come to swap over!

not sure if i said that or someone else, i was only asking but to me it would seem it doesn't make a difference, the chain tension is the same amount whichever way round so should think the power question is void, i'm thinking its purely a weight distribution/clearence vs protecting your equipment decision?

It cant surely? They are there, cast or forged or whatever. The greater number of points just means that there is less slack between when you begin the pedal stroke and the point that the power engages in the FW and drives the wheel. Ie a hope with 48 points will need no more than 7.5 degrees of a revolution of the crank to engage it, a tensile sixty will need only 6. Doesn't sound a big difference but consider that the further away from the centre of the drive cog (freewheel or chainring) the further the physical stroke is, so shorter cranks and more engagement points equal faster engagement from your foot. Also more pick up points at speed mean that your more likely to get drive down quicker as otherwise you could effectively be chasing the engagement point like on shite bottom end shimano freewheels!

hold up, am i missing the point?? Gear ratio as you say dictates the turns of rear wheel relative to size of freewheel being used and cog at either end. Wether you have a 22 tooth cog pulling an 18tooth freewheel (approx 1.2 turns of wheel for one rev of crank) with 72 pick ups or the same freewheel to a 12 tooth cog (1.5 rev's as you say) there is still only 72 pick up points in that freewheel, that wont change as its hardware, it is what it is surely? I was wondering if by having it on the cranks it puts less stress on the pawls as there is no preload through the chain? In my mind, it makes sense to be on the cranks as anyone whos changed one will know their bastards to get off, the principle of using it in whatever application will tighten it using the riders full body weight and strength in their legs as they ride ( is there a splined freewheel and crank set up where the FW fits on the crank similar to a B'guard on the RS7 cranks and then holds it in place with a lock ring,or even on a hub, a big spline with a lock ring like normal cassettes/?? that seems so obvious?????!!!???) so if the bugger gets stuck its a new crank not a new hub/wheel/rebuild so more cost effective, but if on the the freewheel is better protected and the bits facing regular impact are cheap to replace IE a sprocket???? plus if a sprocket is mashed and stuck sticking in a vice and smashing the crank with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block will save the crank? I get the idea of balancing the bike and lighter rear end etc, i guess it just depends, that to me is extreme, everything is weighhhhhhh (geddit?) lighter han years ago, we were riding MTB hubs with 7/8 speed blocks and mechs! if you got the money to replace smashed up fw's then fair play, if you haven't i guess protect it on the wheel? vote guys, in an anoraky sortof way it will be interesting to see what the opinion is and wether people relatively new to the sport, ielast 3-4 years just do it because its whats done. Thinking back now, single speed hubs with fw's would have saved me and my mates loads of money as several fecked the FW and had to get a whole new hub. Say a dmr Revolver and tensile 60 is 60 quid plus rim and build, a hope which was only 36 points back then was something like £150 + rim, build, and gearing!

makes sense I guess!!!! Thanks guys

what is generally the ratio people run , personal pref obviously but i've seen 18/15's about right?

easy mate, sorry, OT but i live in st peters, trying to get back into riding, just sorting my bike at the moment as I'm laid up after an operation, hoping to get back on my bike in december, be alright to meet up sometime?show me what its about now? All the places i used to ride 7 years ago have changed, even the rocks in the marina!

I'm getting back into trials and when I used to ride 7 or more years ago it was all about hopes and CK's, FF's were strictly on megamo and montys but now its massively common, whats the benefit? I've a DMR revolver and tensile cranks so can put it either end, but to me it seems weird to put the FW on the cranks where its more likely to be subject to impacts??? Is there a benefit that outways this??? thanks

just got one complete with XT lever and 203 rotor--- £34 kerching!!!!! thanks for opinion and link!

after a front disc brake, on a budget, has anyone got one, used one, do you think they would be any good for trials??? opinions gratefully received peeps! kevin