Theta2
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Posts posted by Theta2
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TNN LGV's, Harsh grind, Booster.
Also set your pads so that they are almost touching the rim for great lever feel. This means your wheel has to be 100% true though :/
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now I am in need of a new chain and the khe can't be had anywhere for some reason???
Still have a few left in our shop somewhere
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I would be inclined to use a club hammer or similar rather than a rubber one, you need a sharp shock to break the wedge action of the compression ring; the rubber will absorb alot of that energy.
^ This. With a pig because of the compression ring getting so tight, you have to twat it quite hard with a solid hammer, careful not to let the loose ball bearings go everywhere though
i hit it once with a metal hammer but it just bured the edge of it because there crap ashton forks, will try it with a piece of wodd on top so it dosnt mark them
chris
If in doubt, twat it harder
Always works -
KHE Collapse
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http://www.74kingz.de/Bilder/Kettenspanner_6-9_li_mo_400.jpg
I run one of these and can highly recommend it
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Now that is sexy!
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What a fanny.
+1
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If my brake doesn't honk, its not working properly haha
+1
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Gonna get some better pictures tomorrow when the light is a bit better outside
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'Nosie'? As in it listens in on your conversations?
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looks really nice except for those spancers under stem
Yeh
Need a new stem to sort that out though :/ -
Looks mint, but where on earth did you get it brand new?
New old stock
What chainstay length & what gear ratio do you have?
Looks nice.
I believe it is 380mm and the ratio I'm running is 22/18
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mm yummyy
that look brand new as well! D:It is
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Just finished building this
Update: Has had a new rear rim, new brakes front and rear, new stem, new grips, shortened chain, thinner grips and I'm sure there are some other bits
Comments and suggestions welcome
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Looks good but personally I think that headtube would look better with a squarish sealed headset
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Okay I have just been given a task to do on a sheet of paper and I am to get pictures and describe a name of a part of a bike, and one says what is a cone? I am not too sure, but is this what holds the wheel into place by the forks? And what is a dropout? I have'nt an idea
Its probably noobie questions, but it would help http://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/axle-set.jpg
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/horizdropout.jpg
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You won't be able to space a square taper BB properly, if you use a washer, it will be pushed over the steep end of the taper when you tighten the cranks:/
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Could be that the splines or taper in your cranks are worn, this happened to me but BB-side, I found out when I cleaned the BB taper, put it back on, and because the muck and s**t had been removed, the crank went on too far, Replaced the BB and it was fine, check the tapers/splines in your cranks
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What they all look the same, over priced and under engineered?
And the older models are nicer and the newer ones are fugly?
The small top bearing/large top bearing is becoming pretty much standard on mountain bikes now, so trials may as well make use of it, shame only rockman sell this setup, rockman prices put me off the technology step.
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I've always found formula brakes to be amazing, good bite, hold and heat dissipation (useful for riding from spot to spot)
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I had a shitmano freewheel on my 26". Just changed it to an Echo SL, the shitmano is worthless unless you are just commuting on it really :/ Get a Tensile or an SL if you can stretch to it
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Hi All,
Going to be spraying various bits and bobs of my bike over the coming weeks, and the only place I've got that I can make into a temporary spray booth is a shed I've got. It's a cheap, shit shed which obviously has no insulation or anything.
What I'm planning to do is just chuck everything currently in there into the back and putting some plastic sheeting between that stuff and where I'll be spraying, as well as the walls. Then I'll hang the various bits up and spray them, leaving them there overnight to dry each coat.
So, apart from the problems of the fact I'll be freezing my arse off while doing the actual spraying, am I going to have any problems with application or drying with the temperature being so cold overnight at the moment?
In short, yes. Spraying in cold weather causes all sorts of problems. The paint goes harder between the can and the object you are spraying, meaning you'll have to move the can closer and it is more likely to run. Also once the paint is on the object the cold temperatures give the paint strange properties and it doesn't dry normally and can become streaky and discoloured. I tried to spray my frame when it was too cold and instead of it being black like the rest of it, it turned out to be a washed out grey colour :/
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i was tightening the clamp on the lever boy of my hs33 and it cracked and i really cant afford a new lever and bleed kit...
is there a way i can fix it or stop it from moving without replacing it? even if its temporary, atm i have a cable tie keeping it from cracking more but it moves and made me slip the pedal and get 2 stitches in me shin
Mine did this. I used a longer bolt from a 4 bolt mount and now it is fine
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You'll want a 130*25 stem for that
Testing The Water
in Trials Chat
Posted
You can still buy em just they are now called 'Gollys' so they don't get sued