Zetec S

was just looking at the Zoo complete on tarty, think it's about £1150 meaning £900 odd on components at RRP. well if you can find a original try all stem (25.4/undersized) I will be intrested

They shouldn't have a problem with it due to grinding not effecting spoke tension, for a guess. Worse they will say is 'No', and if it voids the wheel warranty (probably expired now anyway if you're on a t-pro) so be it, smooth rims just don't work as well for rear wheeled antics.

Not really looking to upgrade the components otherwise I really will be spending over £1000 on bits and bobs, when I've just spent 1500 on MTB but your plan makes sense considering the Lynx frame and T-Pro frame are both made out of 6061 ally. I've got bars but just can't find an undersized stem anymore. I've also got cranks and isis, but to be honest the alloy onza cranks don't weigh alot anyway. Pads are not the crappy black magura ones, they are the orange/black ones, pretty good pads I think. Both rims grinded, have a cheap outland booster but adjusted the brake a while back and can't get the booster back on. Lord only knows how I got it on there all those years ago (Booster was intended for a Vee Brake) Couldn't agree more on the sealed hubs, looking for a rear bmx profile hub but really am waiting for a second hand one to come along, and will also be upgrading to Try-All rim.

Birthday is coming up soonish so might go for the lynx or the 08 gu mod frame in black. Tempted to get a full second hand bike though as my retroish 33's aren't feeling all to good at the mo, but working ok as they should but just getting fed up with adjusting the rear one every 2 weeks and rear hub cones playing up when riding.

How long is a peice of string? What Sort of condition is it? Everything working on it? But yes t pro is a good mod to start on if you ask me.

Using bash guard is a cheat within itself All methods easier said than done but persistance is the key I would say...

At the moment I have a fully function T-pro frame (would like to see if it will last 10 years of on-off use but who knows!) recently found myself wanting zoo or echo frame, preferably a zoo I guess. However I have no real reason for the upgrade, I'm not tooooo bothered about the weight of the bike at this moment, I think the frame geo is fine, I'm just craving new frame really. T-pro does take a cosmetic bashing on a regular basis on ledges I think it's fair to say, so that is the only plus side on keeping the current frame, not too bothered if the 'pro does take a hit, and I will be roughly, £300 with Headset, more in my favour if I do stick with the onza. Not sure weather I'm just being tight or what. Will I notice any difference in frame upgrade apart from weight? I've only ever had the 'pro for trials. I'd probably go for long - 1025mm base, where as t-pro is 1005mm I think so I'd lose out on manual blunts but hopefully make up for it in gaps? Quite stuck on this one... Any more pro's and con's to consider? your thoughts please.

I'm assuming you're thinking of flat head + hammer on groves of either square taper or isis BB. I personally would not reccommend it, when you want to remove the BB you will most likely be stuffed, plus you could slip off and bash your frame or indeed bash yourself but wait and see on other memebers feedback!

as already said it varies so much. I run front on 10psi and 15 on mod but I couldn't say I weigh that much. I advise you put them to 20 (if your on mod and depending on your weight) then let them down accordingly. (or increase pressure if need be)

only other thing I'm considering is all the mates ride mods so I might be a bit out of place if I change to stock or 24" and will probably end up wishing I bought the mod out with me on the rides instead... but good to know about the 24s.

I've seen zoo/echo's go for £300 mark so £300 would be a good shout I'd say. Should be able to get a t-pro cheaper, Think there is alot of them still out there.

Was refering to a more noticable loose spot like after a bent bottom bracket spindle. Full spec list would be useful if you still want to sell, but I'm sure you could sort this problem out. You could always ask a good bike shop about the problem if you haven't already.

big difference from 24" to 26"?? I'm a mod man but considering trying a stock, but now wondering about the 24's!

makes so much difference, but it's the sort of thing - that you won't know what you're missing, until you jump on one, then you'll find out. I had an 04 onza - sorted me out for beginner trials,as suggested try second hand, I'd say try and find t-mag, t-pro or something along those lines with double hs33's. (if you want a mod that is)

what size frame? I can't manual 20" 1045mm wheelbase for anything... 1010mm is ok though

Could be a bend/warping in your square taper Bottom Bracket (happened to mine, loose spot) or freewheel (unlikely I must say). Try tighting the chain and rotating cranks backwards, see if there is any loose/tight spots.

why I've only just stumbled across this video I will never know , genius, but he is a very wise lad!

700 brand new? how many years ago lol? might just be me but they seem to have shot up price wise.

i'm just wondering if the intergrated booster contributes to the big price difference between '10 Lynx and '09 Python. I will have to have a read up but either way i'm not too bothered I know they are a stiff frame.