Chris Borneo

Don't think they are but I've used em before and they're pretty strong. Rolhoff definitely last longer though, provided you look after them of course.

ROHLOFF S-L-T 99 £40 at Triton so a bit spendy compared to the KMC but it's heat treated so it's strong as hell! If chain life span is more important than cost, this could be a contender.

Just seen the new Gusset Nitro SB pedals in this months ride magazine. They look pretty tidy and the design of the pins looks really good. Should be really solid.

Problem with a lot of platforms is that the pins are countersunk from the back, when there's really no need for them to be. All it does is literally half the amount of thread that holds the pins in. Wellgo and some other brands used to do this back in the day, although I don't know if they still do. On my last BMX I had Odyssey JC trail mix pedals and the pins are more like mini cap head bolts with plenty of thread to hold them in. Haven't lost a pin yet and they'll be going straight on my trials bike when I get it built up.

Yeah, My old man's got a lathe so I could get him to shorten the cassette body and the axle for me. Just a bit unsure about relocating the outer cassette bearing and whether there would still be enough room to cut a new thread for the lock ring. The one in the pics looks like it might have the lock ring on the outside. Think my old odyssey hazard cassette hub may have had something similar on the original driver. If anyone's got any more pics they can put up, especially any work in progress shots, it would be much appreciated.

Heard of 2 pack paint but not really familiar with the process. MOD standards sounds promising. Oh yeah, forgot to mention Armourtex. They're meant to be really good for powder coat. I know they do pearlecent lacquers and different levels of gloss, satin, matt finish etc and they know what they're doing when it comes to masking bike frames. They're not the cheapest, especially if you're outside of London and sending stuff and getting it sent back but I've heard they're worth the extra bucks.

To be fair, the headset manufacturer probably wouldn't expect there to be a radius at the steerer crown junction but I think you're right that it needs a bigger internal chamfer.

Meant to be one of the best for vintage road bikes. I'd like to get them to restore my Major Nichols one day but I think they only do stove enamel and it's not really tough enough for a trials bike.

Yeah, the blue Chep ones are usually the best to ride as they're good to stack and interlock with each other and pretty tough too. Back when i was younger, the security guards at our local industrial estate used to let us ride there, out of business hours, as much as we liked as long as we didn't break too many pallets and put everything away when we were done. Guess it was in there interest to have people about on the estate. Always worth an ask first though. If you've got somewhere to put em a lot of places will just give you em but they might not always be the strongest.

If anyone has any more info on this I'd also be well interested. Would like to cut the hope rear hub on my road bike down to 120mm.

Stoked, someone who get's the point I was trying to make. Thought I was going to have to get my paint skills out and draw a diagram. I think it's more likley that either the crown race or the fork will become deformed but hopefully it won't cause you any major issues. Sounds like the trialtech forks are pretty tough anyway

So it doesn't matter that the crown race is going to bed into the aluminium fork and create a weak point exactly where trialtech were trying to eliminate one? If you know steel is good under compression, you'll know that aluminium isn't. I'm not an engineer, I'm not even a professional bike mechanic but I've built and broken enough bikes and components over the last 15 years to know that if there's a 1mm gap between the crown race and the crown, it's not a proper fit and if it's sitting on a part of the fork that the manufacturer considered a potential weak point, it's worth putting right.

Ha ha, considering the overwhelming evidence supporting your argument, oh wait, no, I'm still not convinced.

I'm not saying it's definately going to fail but if the crown race is sitting 1mm above the crown, something isn't seated right. I had a look at the SL headset and it has a split in the crown race so that won't crack but the underside has an internal chamfer not a fillet. If left to bed in it could create two angled transitons between the steerer and the crown negating the fillet that trialtech have machined into the fork for strength and making two potential weak points where you don't want them. Clearly I'm just playing devil's advocate here but something's not right and if it was my bike, I'd try n get the crown race seated properly before riding. I'd probably start by emailing trialtech to see if it's something they've come across already. I'm not trying to be a pr#*K about it, I'm just trying to offer what I think is good advice.

No, it would be stupid, when you could get one that fits properly and wouldn't crack.

I can see the advantage of having a smooth transition at the point where the steerer meets the crown but surely you'd need the bearing race to have a similar internal radius to allow it to seat properly on the crown? If the crown race is seated part way up the curved transition it's going to be trying to expand every time you put downward pressure on it and eventually it'll crack.

If your headset is super tight but it still rocks, it probably means something's not alighned or seated right. It might settle down with a bit of use but you're best checking your cups are in straight and even that all the components have been intalled correctly. I've seen a few people put headsets together with bits in the wrong way round. I've done it myself with just a thin plastic seal in the wrong way up, I had the same problem.

Clear lacquer will chip n scratch pretty easily especially if it's a rattle can job. If you're not going to be out riding in the wet, you'd probably be better just keeping them raw and giving them a pollish with a rag and a bit of autosol every now and again.

Don't know what it's got in it but I've had it kicking around since last year when I did my BMX frame and the paint just bubbled up and fell right off that. Pretty sure it must be the old stuff.

How did you manage not to mention vans?! Waffle soles matched with a decent set of platform pedals have been keeping some of the best riders attached to there bikes since before you were born I should think. Personally I would recommend the half cab pro. Thin at the front for control, grip and feel, then thicker at the back to prevent nasty heel bruising and just enough ankle support. Not to mention the fact that they look hella rad!

Just started with the paint stripper. Massive fail! Barely having an effect on the powder coat and I'm using the old formula nitromors. Cannot be bothered with this shit. Powder coat they've used is as tough as the frame it's self I reckon. Gonna have to strip it all round the main gusset at least so I can be sure to cut that out straight. Then it looks like I'll have to get it shot blasted and might as well get a proffessional clear coat while it's there, instead of the rattle can job it was going to get. So much for doin it on the cheap eh.

Just picked this up off ebay. Weighs in at 6lbs so maybe a bit on the heavy side for some but I like a bike that'll take a bit of abuse. Planning to build it up over the next few weeks as a kinda trials/street/jump bike.

Hell yeah! Although I do have a bit of a thing for bare metal at the moment. Only on steel frames of course

This has just made my day

I like the black n yellow fork. Loads better than boring black or silver. Undecided on the purple bits. Love the Microsoft paint skills. I do that all the time when i'm building bikes. Oh yeah, loose the red headset spacer