Aii_Aitch

I was expecting an answer like that. Okay, I'll get to it.

So I have the spoke key, and i've given it a few goes but I just can't get it 100% right. I seem to get half way through truing and forget which way I should turn the key, so if anyone has any handy rhyme or something... Also, once it's all trued, how do I then get the same tension in all of the spokes, or should they all even out?

As judgement on whether you can trust a seller or not, if they've been around for a couple of hundred posts then they will have feedback on their profile. Some people also leave text as to how the seller treated them, etc. If you open my profile page, you'll see on the right-hand side that my feedback is 2 positive (and under it says neutral). But it doesn't mean that someone hasn't gone bad, it's just an indication as to whether they are legit or not.

Pretty bike. Looks like it's worth £400, too. I'd see if you can haggle to £380 or get free postage, but that's just my Northern roots flaring up. Also, if you decide not to buy it, then you shouldn't get bogged down in looking for certain geometries on a first bike either.

Only time I've ever used or even seen Vees on a trials bike was on my Onza T-Vee, and they weren't great. But it all depends on the pads you use. Never heard of them cracking frames, though.

Do bear in mind that you can get a really decent full build on the Buy/Sell section of the forums for £400. Trials bikes depreciate in value really quickly, so you'd be paying £400 for something worth possibly £1000 brand new.

Barbie wheels. But yeah, I'd go with all black with purple nipples.

I'd actually go with a an orange, like on the Because Colour frames.

purple with yellow polkadots

"So I made them deeper" makes sense, I think.

He's 5ft 9in, if that helps. I'm interested too, but not experienced enough to comment.

If your question is "can I still use this?", then yes. It sounds pretty good to me.

All done. Sanded all of the black plastic except the rubbery o-ring thing. Bleeding with mineral oil for now. My water bleeding adventures were short lasted.

And what do I sand down? I take it that I leave the rubber bit alone because tht's what makes the seal. Should I take that off, or...?

So it's out now. It exploded out, so i'm not sure if I collected all of the pieces. Is it just a 2cm long piston and a spring?

It's a shiny metal casing so that wouldn't go down well. :L It'd slowly give me cancer as i rode round town with it or something.

Oven it is! Tried poking. It won't budge. The brake was sitting in a garage for a year before i bought it, so it's expanded really far. The water that came out as I was flushing it smelt like gym bags.

Okay, it's stuck half way out and it won't even go the whole way at 160 PSI. Does anyone know if soaking it in meths overnight will release some of the water?

Gaffer taped the tube back onto its fitting and used all of my weight on the pump. One more attempt and hopefully it comes all of the way out.

Just got up to 10 bar and the tube slipped off of the threads. -.- This is ridiculous! Surely there is another way of doing it? EDIT: Just did it! yay!

Wow. Wasn't expecting that. How exactly do I get the pump and tubing to stay together?

So, I've flushed out all the old water, taken off the lever and left the bleed screw from the lever out. I tried pushing the piston out of the lever casing using a hammer and a 3mm allen key, but it won't budge. I've also put some WD40 down the lever end on the opening to try and get some lubrication against the piston and casing. Can someone shed some light on the subject?

Sorted, thanks! Either I've missed it before or I'm blind.

Hey, to the left of this post, you can see my profile picture, my amount of posts and something that says "Trials Monkey". Just wondering at what points these change by themselves, and how people have changed them to say different things?

I have the long bolts, just not the spacers. I'll have to wait if I want then from tartys because the only 15mm long ones they have are out of stock.