loffa

You can drill the hole in the star nut bigger, so you can use any cable/outer you want.

My mates Echo bars broke after about a year of use. Anyway I'd suggest either a Koxx bar or the Onza carbon riser bar.

You don't have a hacksaw, but you have got an angle grinder, don't you? (You do, I can see it from your rim (Y) ) So why not just get your grinder out and cut the steerer with it?

Last year on a comp in Latvia I saw two guys(they were brothers) who had hs33s rear with Shimano Deore disk levers. I don't know how well they worked, but I suppose they were better than the original maggie levers due to the piston ratio.

Can I flush the maggie oil out without taking my brake apart? I want to bleed it with water but I don't have an 8mm spanner to screw all the hoses off and I'm not excited of the idea of taking the brake off my bike and setting it up again later etc. Thanks.

I have it, but it looks like I don't have the full lenght of it, cuz mine cuts off at 1.16 :huh:

The bb lenght depends on your crankset. Edit: ahh.. all of you were faster than me :">

I'm not sure either, but that's just my experience.

IMO straight rotors are better for trials, because you have more pad contact area with them which means better braking. All that wavy rotor does is puts air moving between pads and thus gives your brake better ventilation, but in trials you hardly ever brake from a big speeds. For example, before when I had the wavy 180mm Louise FR rotor my brake wasn't very good and I was considering getting a hope trials front brake. But about a week ago I swapped my rotor with a mates 180mm straight Magura rotor, which was just hanging on his wall doing nothing(actually he had built a clock from it :) ). And when I had put it on, cleaned the pads and rotor and did a few stoppies down a hill, to bed the brake in again I was like holy shit, my brake has never been so good before! Ofcourse it can be different rotor materials or something, but I think that all magura rotors are the same material.

Hey, I'm getting a set of Tensile cranks from my mate(non UCI ones). I'll make a custom bashring and use them with a 18t echo sprocket. The thing is, that I'm not sure wether or not it will fit my raven 5.0 with a 68x118 bb? Has anybody used this setup before or can say that it will fit for sure? Thanks.

If it's welded, then you don't need to locktite it. It can't get loose when it is welded shut.

Lever: Silver hs33 body with RB blade Caliper: Standard black hs33 Hose: Black magura, with monty splitter, bled with magura oil Mounts: 4bolt Pads: Paaa pads(a guy over here makes them) Rim: 47mm koxx, fresh grind and tar Booster: Shimano xtr carbon, drilled to 4bolt Back in the old days when I had a d521 with a worn grind and no tar, evo mounts, paaa pads, my brake was excellent. But I've never had a good brake with the koxx rim, altough I've tried lots of different pads(coust, plaz crm, brown bloxx) and the brake is set up nice and flat. I think, that maybe it's in the rim.. I have a DX32 over here waiting for my king hub, which I hope will solve the problem.

You could get a Monty disc hub.

It may sound a bit stupid, but are you sure it is the hub skipping and not your chain/cog? It has happened to me few times before :"> Try riding around with your front brake on to put some pressure on your chain/cog, if it skips riding like that it could be your cog/chain. Other than that I can't help, i've never even seen a hope hub in person.

BT raven 5.0 Tryall square taper ffw cranks, ACS freewheel, square taper VP 68x127.5

If you can get Alexrims, then dx32 is probably your best bet..

Joel Valga 2

You can just turn the rb blades TPA bolt in until it reaches the cylinder right away.

Are you sure that it is Vincent's bike? I remember from other pics that he had silver stickers on his bike, not blue ones.