loffa

Well, even if it is 116mm so that you can run snail cams on a 110mm hub, then it still is a STOCK frame, which should have 135mm rear hub spacing so that you can run a King or a Hope or any other decent hub instead of Dengs crap. Basically with that spacing the only options are a BMX King or going FFW and running a mod rear hub. If Deng really does produce all his new frames with that rear hub spacing, then I think there are more than enough riders who don't want to get rid of their Hopes/Kings and will buy a frame that is not made by Deng. Stupid decision by him if you ask me.

They aren't normal Leeson style 360 dropouts.. they look like eccentric(sp?) dropouts, so you can use them to tension your chain just like with horizontal dropouts. Work on the same idea as WI Eccentric rear hub.

There is a plug-in for Winamp called Streamripper, that lets you rip streamed audio directly to your hard drive in mp3 format. It also separates the tracks automatically when needed (I.e. when ripping an internet radio it creates different files for each song instead of making it one big file.) click me for link

Is it me or is the fork in the picture snapped?

I think you meant this stuff? http://www.alumiweld.com/ I haven't tried it myself, but I think that it should work for a while. And even if it doesn't then atleast you did try.

I got a Czar long about 7 months ago and I rode it for two months. It was the worse frame I have ever ridden, because it was way too long. Only things that I could do properly on it were sidehops and gaps. Everything else, especially small tech moves were really hard because the bike felt too big, if you get what I mean. So I sold the Czar and got a BT 6.0 short. It feels really lovely on gaps and hooks. Tapping vertical walls is not a problem either, though I had to adjust my technique(sp?) so that I hit the wall a bit lower to clear it with my rear wheel. It's all good now and I have managed to do 49" on it. But tapping slightly slanted walls is really hard, I could do 53" to rear on a slightly slanted wall on my BT 5.0, but now I can't do it at all, my rear wheel keeps hitting the wall and I can't tap it any lower either because that would be too low and I'd probably just fly over the bars. The other thing about the high bb is that it has made my riding look shit Before, when I rode my BT 5.0 I could ride rather smooth, or atleast I liked my style, but now I ride really harsh and slam my rim to the edge on every bigish gap etc, and I can't help it. So I can't really say if it is good or bad, but my next frame will have a low bb for sure.

It is a normal Zoo Pitbull '06, the high-bb one. Actually it really isn't that small, it's just the big tubes that make it look small. Glad you have liked the vid.

Every year a big group ride called the SpringJam is held in Estonia. All riders over the country come together to enjoy the first proper riding weather and to rip up the city. This years event was the biggest one so far I guess. There were about 80-90 riders and the weather was really good. My mate Joel made a vid of the whole event, he was there on both days with his cam so he basically got all the action and edited it to a classy vid. 21 min/~460mb. http://www.trials-shack.co.uk/Joel/KevadJam06.wmv Thanks for watching and let me know what you think of it Hendrik

263 driveside and 265 non-driveside.

You can't run a rear rim brake when using 24" wheels in a 26" frame.

So I'm looking for a front disc hub, as my DT is dieing (basically my 203mm Avid has put so much force on it that the hub shell has streched a bit and now it's creaking and a bit loose, but what could you except from a lightweight xc hub that has been used for trials for nearly three years) So I've looked around in different online shops, and I have found three hubs which I have liked, but I can't decide which one. Either the new BT disc hub, Hope XC or Hope Pro2. I'm looking for something not too heavy or expensive. Can anybody tell me what's the difference between a Hope XC and a Hope Pro2? Which hub out of the three would you suggest? Or maybe something else? Echo? Viz? Thanks.

I have the same problem right now. I've killed two '06 Echo rims and now a DX32(though it was drilled 1" so i'm not too surprised). Can anybody tell me is there any real difference between an Onza Hog rim and a Koxx rim? Other than eyelets.

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I used mine on a standard Magura rotor for about 2 months and I had no issues with pads wearing down or anything. They were awesome in the dry (though the sound that they make is horrible) But as soon as they got wet I had no front brake atall. So I just got an Avid and I'm happy with it, though I much prefered the lever feel of a Louise.

A few pics from a roadtrip last weekend. Märt on the Echo Hifi and me on the red 6.0: These are only the best ones. I can post some more, if someone's interested.

The big thick black bashguard is ment to be ran with a 22t chainring, that is bolted to the bashring, not a screw-on cog. If you want to run a screw on cog, then you have to get a 18t(or 16t) UCI bashguard.

The good thing is that I got my rim warrantied, as it was only two days old. The local Echo dealer is sending me a new one But I guess I'm going to sell it, as I don't trust these any more. Getting a dx32 instead.

you remember that 2 days ago I said that I ordered a new echo rim, because they are cheap. Well, that is the NEW rim now: I had two rides on it Stupid drop gaps and even more stupid echo shitf**k rims. And it was laced really good, perfectly true and even tension etc. what rim should I get next? Viz? DX32?

Yea, the exact same thing happened to me about a week ago. I got so big flatspot, that the tire didn't stay on any more. The rim was 4 months old. But I was being stupid and ordered a new one, as they were way cheaper than VIZ and try all

Though the editing and quality could have been better, the riding was really good! You seem to have no problems with tapping your high BB bike, so my question is, what stem are you running? 15x130 Echo Hifi? And how tall are you? Thanks, and keep up the good work

My Czar. Now with lower rise stem, black bars, "The Timemachine" (when translated to english) stickers and loads of snow

But he rides a 20", that's a bit different. You can't bunnyhop a long 26" bike.. well you can, but it's hard to get the front wheel up and pedalupping is much easyier. Though I'm sure that CLS could bunnyhop a 1100wb stock bike too. It's just a matter of practice I guess.

Don't be scared, I'm 15 lol. Anyway, when I was learning them on my BT, I found that the hardest part of hooking is keeping your chocolate foot/pedal from hitting the wall. And I also found a 'cheat' that helps you avoid hitting it with the pedal while you're still learning the tehnique itself. Assuming(sp?) you're doing them to pallets, I put the upper pallet(the one that's on the top ) few inches further back then the others were, creating a 'step' which helps to clear your pedal and also makes it easyier to get up, because you can use the same 'step' with your rear wheel. The 'step' has to be just big enough to clear your foot, but not too big to get your front wheel stuck behind the edge. And if you get the basic skill with the 'step' you can just remove it. But now that I'm on a high BB Czar I can't really see any issues with pedal clearance. Other than that, just the things you have probably heard before - Go as fast as you can, try to bunnyhop/pedalup into the wall as if you were doing a gap into the wall, rather then trying to jump 'up'. And you have to jump much lower then you probably guess at the first, the front wheel just has to make it to the edge. Happy hooking(or killing your fork ) Oh, and I forgot to mention: WEIGHT FORWARD!!!

You don't need a "trials specific" chain, just use the strongest chain that you can get from your lbs. KMC kool's are good, but if you can't get your hands on them you can just run a normal(still prefarebly kmc) bmx chain and it'll be strong enough, if you replace it every 4-5months or so.

I think your brake isn't aligned properly to the rotor. Try to play with the spacers between the disk mount and the caliper. And also get your disk tab faced, if you haven't already.