loffa

Atleast you guys don't have snow. It's 10+cm snow over here right now, so no riding before we can get an indoor place and if we won't be able to get one, then we're in big trouble.. But well, atleast my bike can now stand up on its own

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7631

My rear Hope Trials has been awesome so far. And it's a 200mm on a 26" wheel. It is much sharper than I expected it to be, and I haven't had any troubles with it so far. Nice and smooth combined with awesome power. What more could you ask? Go for it!

Nice bodge you've got there. BUT, where is the point of the horizontal dropouts and wierdly spaced rear hub now?(yep, I know it is the standard hub spacing for bmx/mod frames, but for a 26" frame it still is wierd) You still use a derailleur, and I don't think you saved much weight by having a 20mm shorter axle and no hanger (which you could also do on every 26" bike, couldn't you?) You mentioned something about it being stiffer etc, but it can't imagine it being THAT much stiffer that you were willing to go through all this hastle just because it feels slightly stiffer?

Nothing will happen to your frame before 500+C, But the standard powdercoaring temperatures are no more than 200C-250C, so your frame will be fine.

It is really hard to hit the rear disk on a missed sidehop, as it is protected by your rear tire (if you look straight up from the "ground" you can't see the rotor because the tire is wide enough to protect it. Kinda hard do explain but hopefully you got it). As said before your tire or pedal will hit first. Actually the only way I can think of hitting the rear rotor is by missing BOTH wheels on a sidehop.

Haha, just got home from a house party aswell. Met some new girls, loads of new numbers in my phone And as me and my mate were the only guys in the house (20+ girls) we were having LOADS of fun C'you in the morning.

Hey lads, just a quick question. If I remove the lever blade from my Hope Mini lever, then do I have to rebleed it? I mean does the piston pop out or will it stay in there? I'd like to replace my lever blade but I don't have dot fluid to bleed my brake right now. Cheers, Hendrik

I find it abit harsh aswell. Though I don't know what he did before, to get suspended for the first time, but just for saying someone is 'almighty' is not enough to get suspended I think. Even if that 'somebody' is the owner of the forum. If I would say "Joe Maher is gay*", then everyone'd get that actually I didn't mean it bad. I'm sure Chris didn't mean it bad aswell, he just replaced the Joe Maher with Tom. * No hard feelings, Joe. You know, that everybody loves you

The front rim is originally a silver try-all, in which I made the retangular holes and drilled the sides and the rear rim is a red BT 47mm rim(the same as a try-all actually, just different logos). Both of the rims are powdercoated white. I got them powdercoated this spring, so they were white before koxx came out with their white rims.

If I remember correctly, then it had a tensile strenght of something like 900kg, while the normal Kool has 1300kg, therefor it being weaker than the normal Kool. Though it is still stronger than a normal XC chain which has a tensile strenght of 600-700kg.

Hey. I got all my parts yesterday(big thanks to Tartybikes!) and built this beast up: And a few hours later: Simtra St-1 frame, 200mm Hope Trials Rear on a King ISO hub. I've only had one ride on it so far, so the disc hasn't bedded in yet. But I was doing some taps and hooks on it today and it already works pretty good... .. Oh, and it's sooooo smooth and quiet All comments welcome.

They aren't chromed. They are just polished to be shiny. Just like Coust and Echo frames.

A mate. Same bird in both of the pics.

Yes, they can. Just screw them in as normally and then cut off the part of the helicoil that sticks out of the frame. Though you could always drill the holes 2mm deeper, because the longer the thread is, the better.

I thought about this when I stripped my brake mounts, only that I wouldn't use glue. You can get get stickbolts (I don't know if that is the right word. A bolt without a head that is) that have normal metric thread on one end and the other end looks a bit like a wood screw, that are meant to be used in situations like this. You force the "wood screw" end into aluminium, it taps itself it's own thread and will stay there securely. Though I found that helicoiling it is much easier.

Haha, just got home from a party aswell. good night.

How old is the hub? a few of my mates who ride xc have had that problem. The spoke holes on the hub wear out a bit and the edges become sharp so they will 'cut' your spokes.

I'm not concerned about hitting the rotor as I sidehop to my right. And even if I have to go to my bad side and don't make it, I land on my pedal, not on the rear dropout.

Thanks for the info. I have edited the topic a bit as I didn't want to make a new topic for a new rear brake question. Hendrik.

RB levers won't work on a Hope, because hope uses Dot fluid, but RB is designed to be used with mineral oil (i.e. Magura discs)

Hey. I'm going to switch to vees or a rear disc because I'm fed up with all the troubles I've had in the past few years with my Magura. If I'd go for a rear disc I'd get a Simtra frame with 200mm Hope trials brake. And for the vees i'd get an Xtr lever, Xtr cable and hosing, Heatsink adapters, Heatsink red pads and Avid Ultimate calipers. Which setup would you recommend me? I have heard only good things about a 200mm rear hope trials from mr. Bigman and Tarty. But then again everybody seem to love their vees. I have never tried either a good setup of vees or a rear disc (exept on my mates Monty, but that is a different story being a 20" wheel and all). I like the smoothness and quietness of a disc, but I'm still not 100% convinced that a disc will have enough power and getting vees would also be much cheaper. Please help me out, I can't decide And another thing. As I was browsing on CRC and found that you can get the Ultimates (and all other Avid vees) in 'front' and 'rear' option and was wondering what's the difference between the two of them? Which one should I get if I'm going to use it as a rear brake? (I'd guess that for rear I have to use 'rear' brakes but in some thread I read that someone was suggesting the 'front' ones) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7048 Thanks, Hendrik.

The rear disc really makes riding look soo smooth. Nice one But how do you like your rear disc? Does it have the hold that a Magura/Vee has with decent pads and a grind? I'm temted to get a dual disc Simtra, but I'm not sure if the rear brake would actually work.

Well, actually his helmet would have helped him a lot. He was not a street rider in the means of trials street, but more of the stuff you guys call Urban freeride I think. Anyway, his helmet was a fullface jobby, so it would have protected his head for sure. And he did not die because of an injured neck, and that's the only part which would not be protected by a fullface helmet. (Yeah, he got an internal bleed aswell, but he probably hadn't been in coma if he had his helmet on) Though, I can talk whatever I want and discuss it with myself, but what's done is done and it can't bring Jüri(that was his name) back. Like someone already said, life is harsh. We won't forget you, Jüri And just for the record, he was 20, not 17

The flange width on the BMX King and a normal 135mm King classic is the same, as they use the same hubshell. So I think that other mod hubs are about the same width. And I don't know where you buy your frames from, Chris, but over here the Czar and Hifi frame costed a bit under 500 Eur when they first came out. Right now they are 375 Eur each from my local dealer.