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totaltrials

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Posts posted by totaltrials

  1. Don't do it...tapes just move, tear and come undone.

    I did a whole nation comp well section 3-20 with no grips because the tape failed so badly.

    The carbon effect is not the best feeling, its not absorbent and gets slick with its coating.

    The sticky backing on bar tape is pathetic, but if you do it tight enough, tape the end down and push the other end into the bars and fit the bar end it shouldn't move. Did you put the tape on going clockwise or anti clockwise? You will be pulling the tape towards you more on a trials bike so it should tighten as you pull.

    Anyway, all that's pointless because you can just use some double sided tape and it'll never move.

    Some kind of micro fibre tape will be best for trials for better comfort and grip. Fizik is good. Or if you have a bit more money get the Lizard skins DSP tape as it's very comfortable.

    With the carbon effect, as said above, it doesn't feel as nice as a normal foam or gel tape.

  2. For that kind of money you're still looking at the "home mechanic" workstands.

    The best one I think would be any of the Minoura truing stands.

    This kit is quite good http://www.minourausa.com/english/tool-e/truepro-combo2-e.html

    You get a dishing tool, self centering, guides both sides, and you don't need to bolt it down, i.e. you can use it anywhere.

    I've had the older model for about 6 years, still works fine. But this newer model looks a lot better. Out of all the stands available, this is the best for the price range (£90).

  3. Ok lads nothing i tryed worked so out came the angle grinder and all i can say is +1 for the mighty angle grinder. But i now have another issue which your skills might come in handy for : The axle spacer or the bit circuled in this pic pushes up to the bearing when the wheel sits in the frame with the axle bolts done up nice and tight the wheel refuses to move any ideas on where im going wrong or any sugestions on how to stop this part of the hub from sqaushing the bearings and making it seize up .Its all good if the axle bolts are done up loseley but this aint gonna work . Thanks from a very stressed and fed up member :(

    Oh and does anybody know where i can get this part from please

    I'd put money on you not trying hard enough to turn the wheel to loosen the cog. You should give it a sharp quick twist first to try and loosen it rather than just constant pressure. But anyway, that's done now.

    The spacer must be rubbing on the bearing in the wrong place I'd imagine. You just need a washer between the bearing and the spacer to push it out a little and stop it pressing on the bearing in the wrong place. Is it a new hub?

  4. The Comp III was the tyre that spawned those kids bikes tyres. It's pretty legendary in the BMX world, and trails riders love 'em. Not ideal for trials though...

    Trails riders love them? So they love really hard plasticy dodgy tread pattern tyres? They must be onto something >_<.

  5. Well most thoughts seem negative so i think i will leave it

    I was thinking along the lines of one of these:

    comp3_black.jpg

    Don't be fooled by the name on it. That's just a kids bike tyre. Unless Tioga have re designed it with some fancy rubber I think it's just an off the shelf jobby. Those tyres are terrible.

  6. One problem with the PS3 and it's "should have got an xbox". Seriously?

    Since 2005 the xbox 360 has been full of problems. Terribly un-reliable pile of junk. Where as the PS3 has happily gone by without any problems. It's taken Xbox until the end of 2009 to release a new chipset (Jasper) to finally sort out the problems.

    If you would have got a Xbox instead of a PS3 it's likely you would have sent it back 5 times by now.

  7. You won't get that Da bomb headset in an Adamant frame. The inside of the headtube hasn't been machined deep enough to allow cups that long to fit.

    It depends how easy it is to fit in with your hands. Is it tight push or is it a wizards sleeve?

    You could try some other headsets, some might be very slightly bigger just with the tolerance of different manufacturers, it might vary slightly. Try a cheaper headset.

    If you want to really bodge it up when all else fails, get some chemical metal on the go.

  8. With the front freewheel not fitting correctly. It might be a case of the freewheel being at the bottom of it's tolerance when it was made and the cranks being at the top of it's tolerance. Meaning they don't fit. You're best trying the freewheel on some other cranks first. Make sure the threads are clean and none of them are damaged.

    With the tensioner problem. Have you got your sprocket on the right way, the teeth might not be centred to the threads. If not the you could put a small spacer between the cog and the hub as it looks like the H hub's threads go very close to the hub flange. Is your tensioner set up properly, with the jockeys properly in line with the sprocket?

  9. Just put 6 washers underneath the rotor, then one on the end of the axle.

    Respoking the wheel incorrectly sounds a bit insane to me....

    And as for 4 cross, I don't know why no-one really uses it. it adds a few grams in extra spoke weight but it's much stronger. Same for radially spokes front wheels, why? It barely saves anything and make the wheel far weaker.

    People do radial just for how it looks. Well.. you might get the occasional chap who bothers because it's lighter but mainly because of the looks I think.

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