forteh
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Posts posted by forteh
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Doesnt sound like tennis elbow as that affect the tendons on the outside of the elbow.
I suffered from tendonitis in my fingers years ago when I was riding bmx all the time, would get burning sensations in my fingers and eventually they would cramp up and I couldnt let go of the bars; not suffered from it much recently but Ive had a 2-3 year break from riding all the time.
Could it be a trapped nerve in your elbow? In my experience that tends to be a shooting pain rather than a throb like tendonitis, also dont forget that your funnybone is in your elbow (just a big bundle of nerves that is exposed on the inside/back so it hurts when you hit it).
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Practise practise practise
Learn to be looser and more relaxed on the bike and how to step off the bike when you need to bail, trashzen has everything you need to know about the basics.
A well set up brake that you can rely on and trust to hold you is a massive confidence booster, so is a grippy big tyre on the back as it gives you a larger contact patch to balance on.
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Just buy the Chris King Hub Toolset or borrow it from someone. It is one of the most complex set of special tools for a bike. Why f**k up a high end rear hub.
Almost 100 quid for the toolset, nice as they are, its a bit outside of the budget for most people
Cheaper to send it to tarty for a service
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ones required for my magura threads, i want to keep the same bolt size... dont really want to drill out my clamps.. anyway! anyone! got a comp in the weekend would be great to get it sorted by then, at the moment its running with a jubeliee clip..
Any decent tool & bearing shop should stock them, you must be able to find one in london
RS have a trade counter in Bow that you should be able to pick one up from, a bit expensive though but you get a kit of 20 inserts so enough to to 5 frames
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Basically im getting that moving the pads lower in the arms will make them feel squishyer but i will get more power??.
If so im down with that.
Pretty much, yup
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How about a T-rex stem?
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Shimano solid axle, UN54 is it these days?
The isis spindle might be alittle stiffer but the crank interface is a poor design that doesnt facilitate repeated crank removal, the bearings are also much much shorter lived because theyre half the size.
Im sticking square taper, mainly because I have 2 sets of RS7s in square and imho its a better system
edit: Think the solid axle is UN53 - depends on how heavy you are, if youre a smooth/lighter rider go for the UN54 with the hollow axle
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Whenever Ive used a mech for tensioning Ive always left the spring in, locked it off with the screws and zip-tied the parallelogram section tight to the underside of the chainstays and just used the arm to do the tensioning - usually shorten the chain as much as possible so that the jockey wheels are almost inline (inside the chainstay) and the tension increases.
It doesnt bang or clatter, gives good tension and is pretty solid - heavier than having a proper tensioner though
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I was wondering, the zhi adaptors move the brake boss about 1 inch lower so i have to mount the pads very high in the rails on my arms. If i made my own adaptors that put the brake on the bottom magura mount so i could put the pads lower in the rails would this have a significant effect on my braking performance??
Depending on the moment ratios but yes it will make a difference
For example: -
105mm arm with the pad 25mm from the pivot (bottom of slots) will give 4.2:1 mechanical advantage on the force applied to the rim.
105mm arm with the pad 35mm from the pivot (top of the slots) will give 3:1 mechanical advantage on the force applied to the rim.
Thats almost 30% more mechanical advantage - the dimensions are guessed but the same principles are applied.
If you can manufacture some v-daptors which will increase your mechanical advantage by moving the pads closer to the pivot then it will help, although it will introduce more flex so a booster will probably be in order.
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For rubber grips use petrol, almost instant drying time, sticks perfectly and smells nice
Not sure if its such a good idea for foam grips though
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Sounds like a cracked ball, if its a creaking noise its more likely to be loose cranks or BB but in my experience a cracking noise is dead balls. Take the BB out and turn it by hand whilst holding the shell, you should be able to feel a notch or roughness when it makes the noise
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If its square taper then youre about stuffed as youve probably stretched the square by overtightening it, if its isis then its just the crap design of the isis spline
Loctite wont glue a rocking spline together, it will stop a tight spline or a bolt from coming loose though
That is assuming you used the loctite properly.
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that looks like a well good idea , but i bet its hard to get your back wheel out
Its pretty easy, undo the wheel and it falls out the dropout putting enough slack in the chain to get it off the sprocket/roller. Putting it in a bit trickier because you need to put the wheel in with the chain off the front sprocket, then wind it on whilst pulling the tensioner out by hand.
All in its still easier than putting a wheel in with a mech
Eventually if the pivot fails I shall probably re-engineer it properly to incorporate a radial spring tensioner like U brakes, also make the arm from aluminium plate rather than stainless as its lighter.
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If youre single speed already then no reason not to either make or buy a tensioner that doesnt mount off the mech hanger
I made mine from a dmr sts, some odd brake components lying about and a motorbike exhaust spring - it keeps the chain VERY tight (possibly a bit too tight actually) and is bolted to the dropout and tensions upwards so can never really be hit when landing on it
Side view
View from below
Had to drill a 6mm hole in the web of the dropout (where theres virtually no stress) to bolt it on but its a damn sight lighter, smaller and neater than a rear mech and doesnt rely on a mech hanger to hold it on
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Convert to singlespeed and use a 74kingz tensioner or bodge one up yourself
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There is only an end cap, no lock nut whatsoever. The end cap holds everything together. That, it would seem, is the intended design...
Bit of a shite design then
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Sounds as though there is no locknut holding the bearings on to the shaft
When you say the outer bolt, do you mean the end cap on the pedals? On dmr V12s this was needed a 6mm allen key to undo it and there was a separate locknut underneath that held the pedal onto the spindle, if the locknut has come loose the pedal body will be able to move on the shaft.
This is a quick autocad sketch I did showing a rough section through a pedal, in this case a dmr v12 with a ball race on the outside and plain bush on the inside - I suspect the atomlab pedals are similar.
If you take the endcap off is the locknut tight? The locknut holds the ball race onto the shaft and the end cap holds the ball race into the pedal body. Check the locknut is tight, if it is and the pedal body can still move with the end cap screwed in then there is probably a manufacturing or assembly defect
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Thanks, i do go to the gym 3-4 time per week, could it be that the muscle is tired after the load at the gym?
To be honest I dont know, I never go to the gym and never had any problems with my lats - I cant gap 8 foot though
Is it possible that your lats are relatively weak/undersized compared to the other shoulder and back muscles? That way when all of the other muscles tense for impact the weaker lats get pulled about. If this is the case then the reason its only the right hand one is that most riding is handed; chocolate foot forward and preferred side and all that
I would ask at the gym I would expect there to be someone who can better advise, possibly consult a physio - we have our own resident physio who may be able to help but you will need to be a full member to PM him.
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that makes no sence
post a video?Sounds like hes pulling his lats when he lands
Only thing I could suggest is either changing your technique or strengthening the muscle but then Im neither a doctor or physio so dont listen to me
edit: oops picture was a bit big, smaller one inserted
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I dont want to dissapoint you but i already posted a topic on sqaure eights with even a review ages ago.......
I know, it was your review that prompted me to try them
You made no mention as to using them on the rear so I thought Id add my experiences as such. Better front tyre than rear though i reckon
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Picked up a pair of near new tioga square eights off ebay for less than twenty quid so though Id test them out as a rear tyre as the tread pattern is about the closest Ive seen to a moto trials tyre in 26"
The largest size they come in is 2.10" but when stuffed on a wide rim (tryall in this instance) they do come up quite square, but not as wide as a 2.35 maxxis.
The tyres themselves are pretty lightweight at about 850-900g a piece, theyre also folding kevlar bead so alittle easier to get on and off the rim than steel bead, but by that means more likely to peel off the rim at low pressures.
The grip is pretty good, they will hold very well on a square edge without any problems, definitely more street orientated than natural; I cant see them being able to clear mud particularly well because the blocks are so close together.
Whilst the carcass could do with being bigger the major downfall is the absolute lack of pinch resistance, I pinched on a wheelswap landed at an angle on a brick wall - tyre was at 20 psi (my singleply highroller wouldnt have pinched at 10 psi on that) so in my opinion they are shite rear tyre because they pinch so damn easily
I will put a maxxis back on the rear and use the tiogas for the front, it would appear they need the pressure to stop pinching, perhaps a good tyre for a purely street (not street trials) rider.
If they made the sidewalls thicker and upped the size to at least a 2.35 then I reckon it would make a pretty good street tyre
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pritty sure they are just conrete block things for a sea wall or what ever it is, And i dont think they sure concrete contains for nuclear waste they use metal ones and then bury it a mile or to underground
I was being facetious
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Are they the concrete containers that they store the nuclear waste in from sellafield?
Looks awesome
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WOW
I know, the state of my fence and garden is shocking isnt it
Worst Crash
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
On the trials bike its over the bars to pallet kiss - almost bit through my bottom lip in 3 places and it was bleeding for 4 days because every time I laughed/smiled/talked/ate etc it just opened the holes up
On the bmx its either: -
Over the bars to coping kiss (recurring theme there) on a miniramp - overnight stay in hospital with 4 days of concussion, amnesia for 2 weeks (still dont remember doing it) and loose front teeth for a while.
or
Deadsailor over the jumpbox at epic in brum - to tangled heap on the floor - to handlebars stuck into groin. Destroyed the plastic bar plug that was in the bars and proceeded to apple core 3" out of the top of my right thigh - a good chunk of flesh was left in the end of the bars when I kicked the bike away
Another overnight stay, 5 stiches to close the hole up and another 4 to seal the top - an inch to the left and no more kids for me, 2mm to the right and no more me as they could see my femoral artery in the bottom of the hole
Its really cool to be sitting in a pool of youre own blood though