forteh
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Posts posted by forteh
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come on...put a bit more effort in to your replies, especially when someone's trying to help you!
Erm, drill stuff, grind stuff, lighter parts, radial lace wheels, ti bolts, no rim tape( not really a part ), foam grips,
titanium holes, fill with helium
:D :D :D 
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Wide rims are drilled to reduce weight by taking out un-necessary material that doesnt contribute hugely to the strength of the rim. That said I would imagine that an undrilled rim will be ultimately stronger than a drilled one, however the relative strength of the drilled rims is still sufficiently strong for trials use so drilling makes sense
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My odi roughnecks are less than 2mm thick
Its taken 5-6 years to do it though
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Im in the same position, just built an echo hifi up and got a choice of stems that I have in stock, either the onza t-rex (highish rise to suit the high BB) or my flat kore stem that I used on my old zoo boa.
Ive not tried riding properly with both stems yet but it would be handy if someone could suggest the differences in riding, ie: is it easier to gap with the higher but harder to sidehop?
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Have you tried cleaning out the master cylinder, you might have some crap in there thats jamming it up. Personally Ive never had any problems with a water bleed; I would be very very suprised if its your seals failed as its neither been long enough and a failing seal wouldnt make the piston stiff - my money is youve got some crap in there
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What did you lube it with?
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Gonna be an awesome scar
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ODI roughnecks worn completely smooth, very thin and grippy, about 6 years old
Will probably replace them with some ODI longnecks when they finally die.
Tried foam grips, couldnt get used to them, maybe I have small hands but they just made them ache
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You cant fit a bolt booster to a frame that doesnt have 4 bolt mounts
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Shocking (non existent?) quality control if theyre assembling hydraulic brakes with maching swarf still in the bores
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Yo dude loved the way u blacked out ur balls man.
Must hurt a little when the misses goes down town
Well you really wouldnt want to see what I blacked out on that photo
The bruising was black all the way from my right knee up to my waist - everything was black/purple and I mean everything
justicejamie wins for staples
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Theres no reason why you cant as long as you can bollock the axle up enough to stop the wheel moving in the dropouts. Ive run single chain tensioner on my bmx for years and never had any problems, I have got a 14mm steel axle and a big pole to tighten it up with though
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This thread is useless without pictures
My most recent serious injury was bmx handlebars embedded into the top of my right thigh, I mean right at the top and inch to the left and no kids and 2mm to the right I would have died in a pool of my own blood in the skatepark
As it was the bars punched a hole straight through my jeans and neatly applecored a 7/8" diameter hole out of my groin. Having fallen off the bike in a tangled heap I kicked it away with my left leg and it skidded away with a lovely trail of flesh hanging out the end of the handlebars
My mates dragged me over to the wall and propped me up whilst I put pressure on it - its soo awesome to get dragged through pools of your own blood
:D The bars went into my leg a full 3", the grip was rolled back as a witness to this.
The result was 4 subcutaneous stitches to sew the hole up and another 5 to close the entry wound, the doctors could see the femoral artery in the bottom of the hole - I was so very close to killing myself
Suffered minor nerve damage which meant it felt like someone was sandpapering my inner thigh for 18 months.
Now have a neat scar at the top of me leg but I dont show it off in public in general
The moral of the story is dont go riding after a 17 pint all day bender starting the previous lunchtime and dont rely on plastic bar plugs to save you - I have the blood soaked remains of an odi bar plug wedged in my bars somewhere, oh and that samsung d600s dont like to be soaked in blood
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I was just wondering if anyone knew where i could get hold of the power pad or magura backings. I thought it would be a good challenge to see if i could make a pair of decent pads. Any help about backings would be good and if theres anyone that knows a lot about the production of pads that would be even better.
Cheers
..Grant..
Ive got a set of backings from some old koolstop reds you can have, pm your address and Ill bung them in the post
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And why is it that heavy doesnt look.
Straight butted steel tube = heavy
To build a lightweight steel frame you need to invest very heavily in materials and tooling.
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I made the dropouts myself (there's a disc mount on the left one too) and I syole the BB shell and headtube from an old steel xc frame.
Go Go Huge HAZ
:DNice one, I designed a bmx frame at uni for my final year project; was only a design exercise though, was never intended for manufacture.
Hope it doesnt snap at an inoppurtune moment
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i am selling my toxsin1 full bike to buy a mod.
the spec is:
Toxsin 1 frame -a tiny dent in downtube, a few scratches with brand new toxsin headset.
Echo team forks- very good condition, disc only, silver
Toxsin stem-black
try-all yourself replica bars-good condition, black
red rear magura-works fine with toxsin cnc booster.
no front brake fitted but will include avid bb5, with deore lever and hope trials disc
middleburn rs7 cranks with pro trials bash guard-silver with blue bash.22 tooth square taper. dmr v8 pedals.
front wheel is a hope ti pencil hub laced on a black unnamed rim- panaracer tyre
back wheel is a hope xc hub in red laced on a black tryall rim with singlespeed kit and 16tooth chainring- maxxis holy roller 2.5 tyre
toxsin lock on grips in red.
i am looking for about 350-400 but will consider offers.
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Seriolys Should I And Which One?
Well seriolys should you?
Welcome to new members chat, expect to be here for a long time
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Yeah, well the first I sprayed it (Blue...) I spent 3 nights doing it. One for primer, left it inside to dry, another for the proper coats, left inside to dry, then another night of lacquer, left inside to dry.
My mate who always sprays his BMX just grabs a can and blasts over the frame/whetever else he's spraying, and his always stays on for ages, just usual scratches.
You could rub your fingernail on mine and the paint would chip off.
I bet your mates were spraying over existing powdercoat, this will give a better surface for the paint to adhere to. For a trials frame I wouldnt do anything other than powdercoat
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I have a Zona Zip frame, and both times I've sprayed it, the paint just chips off so easily.
First time I did it all properly; stripped the paint, primered it, then used up 2 cans for the paint, then lots of lacquer, and it still chipped.
Then the second time I used white Hammerite, and that just chipped off.
Was thinking of spraying it again, but if it's just going to chip off again then I won't bother...
Why won't the paint stay on?
Did you degrease the frame before primering it?
Cheaper to get it powdercoated, should cost more than 10-15 quid if you ask nicely
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hey, i've read guides saying its an easy jobs and its not worth the 15 pound, but on the other hand, my friend says that i should definatley not do it as it is a complicated task that could go wrong.
I have a second hand rim and hub and new spokes and nipples waiting to be built but i am unsure on what to do.
Thanks for advice
Depends how confident you are and how much time you have
If you read the right guides its easy, more so with 32/36 hole 26" rims because you have loads of room to thread the spokes in, I taught myself on 48 spoke 20" bmx rims and that took a while
If you do go for it yourself then make sure you know all the mechanics of trueing a wheel, ie: how to get flat spots and bounces out of the rim aswell as getting it straight. Also invest in a decent spoke key that is the right size, Ive used a fair few different types over the years and imho the park spoke keys are by far the best. If you have a cheap spoke key then youre more likely to round off the nipples when tightening them and they also hurt your fingers more
Basically if you can see yourself building/trueing more wheels in the future then go for it
IMHO 15 quid for a wheel build is expensive, mine only cost me a fiver if I get them done.
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I used to use 18:16 16:14 20:17, and now I am using 18:15. In my opinion, 18:15 is the best choice.
As Im 'finding' my trials legs again Ill try the lighter gearing and perhaps put a 15t on the rear when I can pull the harder ratio
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Pretty sure Steve has a few in stock
I got mine through in the post today and would definitely recommend getting your mitts on one
Im expecting some cnc reds through the post from steve tomorrow, I shall have to dig out me switch card again, get paid on thursday wooo
Best Tyres
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
Round ones with a largely nitrogen & oxygen based gaseous inflation media