Zoo_Monkey

yea but dont you see the irony in it, id prefure to be sneaky, underhand and out whit the anoying buisybodys that try to put a stop to trials (and anything else for that matter) than confront them directly because you will lose they have the law on there side - idiot its people who go round shouting and making a scene that get the sport bad press. the bad press is the reason these people want to put a stop to you riding, so dont give them a reason to hate you - so use some of those brain cells you were blesed with and be a sneaky tw*t rather than running round like a cave man with a club

Why just england? Porthcawl is the greatest - makes you feel like a kid in a sweetshop there is jus so much there its unbelevable.

just don't act all pissed off and rebellious and they don't know what to do, don't try and come back, if you are riding a bench and they say that's not for riding on - you say "oh gosh i'm so dreadfully sorry i didn't realise" they say "that's OK then don't do it again" you say "OK mam i wont honest" they walk round the corner you keep riding no police - no problem - no hassle if they ask catch you again just say you asked the council and they said it was ok as you arnt damaging any property like skaters they will never check, most people are all full of self righteous fire and brimstone but if they have to actually go out of there way they don't bother :S i use this all the time and is works a treat. people are generaly unhappy and stresed about somthing they make you a target to vent some anger - just deflect it to the council or blame skaters it always works

im glad people still have faith - i think ashton is the king of trials, he is the reason i first go into trials like so many other people, there may be better riders but he has done more for the sport than anyone or anything

lost two top rides in a year and his frames seme tobe falling from grace - i am a strong supporter of ashton and i think the ashton frame and fork is great so why all the bad press ? what do you think of the bike and its image and ashtons for that?

i think the rule is you need 5 or 6 (cant remember which) gears and you have to be able to change through the whole range (no good just having the cassette and a tensioner) however lots of people run a steel sprocket in the chosen trials gear and the rest carbon fiber sprockets - meaning you can change through the whole range and ride in every gear but technically you only have one gear you can do anything in. i find this quite funny as the rule is obviously outdated and if people are doing this it undermines the whole system - which can only be good (N)

this problem is usually always a lose crank, grease and re-fit the cranks - should sort it. if it doesnt then try the bb shell (grease and re-fit) whilst your down there :0 check the outers of the bearing casing on the bb for gaps and cracks. also check the frame for cracks around the bb some frames have poor welds and factory defects from new another reason for clicking can be either the front chain ring check all the bolts are tight and there is no play in it. or if you run a front freewheel check the bearing cover is tight and the assembly doesnt wobble when you spin the cranks. finally check the bearings in your pedals - if they spin smoothly you are OK if its none of the above then take it to the shop you got it from or contact the manufacturer hope that helps (N)

i know - i have just found myself with 2 identical RB designs Boosters - one of whichis on my zoo - se sig. as the zoo is notorious for braking where the mags flex the frame i thort i could put bothe on to giveit extra strength

iv herd of people running two brake boosters on the back i want to do this but im not sure how - anybody here run two (thats two on the back one over one under) do you need to bodge the bolts with m4 thread bar or something? pics please!

OK we arnt all sponsored and most of us work rubbish jobs to scrape together cash to fund our new frame because the one you got last season has an annoying crack on the seat-stay......etc so would you sacrifice weight for reliability? just like in the DJ scene where the trend is chromoly bikes that weigh more than similar geometry/build alu bikes but are indestructible (or maybe just stronger) same question with cranks. would you run a bmx BB and crankset if you could get a frame to fit one? etc.... NB: I'm not talking about competition or performance riding, I'm talking about a bike that you use everyday that you could kick the he11 out of and not worry, something that could potentially last several years, like the sidekick of trials frames (but with dedicated geometry)

k boris, tell us where you are at ? can you ride a bike without stabilisers, what bike do you have what is your budget for geting into trials and i can give you loads of advice but if you just want to learn from scratch try a track-stand and some little bunnyhops then an endo and a drop-off (just off a kerb) then get bigger and bigger - when you can do that you wont need any more advice you will havce the skills to be creative trashzen is a great site for explaning the moves invloved in trials but remember an hour reading on the internet will point you in the right direction but teach you nothing, get out an ride - if you are commited you will learn

if you have any glue left on your bike from old stickers you can use ANY aerosol spray. the butain propelant is a powerfull solvent and will desolve the glue - however the best bit is that butane gas propelent works by carying the content of the aerosol to the targit and evaporating almost strait away so the slovent dosnt stay on the targit long enough to cause any damage. therefore - spray on the frame, quickly rub the glue off and the butain has evaporated before any damage is done to the paint work. (you will have to repeat this process afew times to get all the glue off) a good spray to use is citrus degreaser from halfords as it is enviromentaly freindly, will also clean the frame of any lurking grease or residue and contains a larger than usualy proportion of butain propelant - trust (Y)

I joined a few weeks back My name is Solomon Hill I am from Barry, South Wales, (bout 15mins from porthcawl) I am 25 and ride trials, street and DJ but mostley trials. I like so many different types of music it would be pointless to post all the geners so lets start with Sigue Sigue Sputnik, then say i am currently listening to the cure on my ipod the next track is AphexTwin and then some Thrice and Offspring. I ride a Zoo Pitbull and an Onza T-Pro and a Pashley 24Mhz I will one day have my own on line bike shop, this may some time soon as i have just got some funding (Y)

got any pics of it in silver? just out of interest?

i have a t-pro, not sure what you mean though? did you brake yours or somthing and the green colour is cool - im sick of silver trials bikes, companys should be individual rather than folowing everybody else, otherwize we mite as well all have nike ticks on our bikes.

i am building a spare back wheel for my trials rig and have a choice of 3 rims (the reason for this is to complicated to post so just understand these are the only rims i can go for) Onza Ronnie 26" ground rim (rear) Onza Hog 26" (rear) koxx try all 26" (rear) i need an honest opinion on the strength of these rims, i currently run a d521 which is the best rim iv ever used for strength and confidence inspiring reliability. but as i said i want to know which of the above 3 would be your personal preference.

all the plastic trials seats like the planet x and sarecen and koxx are all exactly the same - the plastic mold is made by vello and each company adds there own bits to it. you can pick up a sarecen/onza/planetx for £10 and take the cover off the koxx has no cover and has been cut down and drilled by koxx so they can charge you £20-£30!

sweet - thanks for all the info - see wasnt that an interesting subject in comparison to bitching abouk brake boosters or the clasic "stock or mod" debate

that frame would make baby jesus cry

so i walk into a builders merchants and ask for roofing tar? nb: iv done many searches for tar - all the info is abit vague

i used to run 20-15 but it sucked, so i went to 20-17 the best thing i ever did

nice one! is it the stuff which comes in sacks looks like this? or am i looking for somthing else

ok i know what rim tar is and how to use it and that you can get it of the road or from ebay however..... what exaclty is it? iv been doing some searches on the net with the intent of geting a bulk load maybee but im not sure what im looking for so far iv tried roofing tar road tar / tarmack bitumen tar some of them seme to come in liquid form some not - i know im looking for the black/brown shiney nugget type stuff anyone know where to get it or what EXACTLY it is any help would be great - thanks for reading

t-pro spec frame with infamous onza internal head set onza steel forks 4 bolt mag mount only onza hubbs onza hog rims (v nice) maxxis creapy crawler tyers 2005 hs33 mags kool stop pads noza stem n bars n grips shin dig pedals onza cranks with uci bash guard and a sump guard acs claw front mounted kmc kool chain think thats bout it - look on tarty bikes as above posts - i have a t-pro if you get one get a onza carbon brake booster and better pads on the back, i put hognesium pedals on mine 2 looks da bomb now

i have a t-pro, got it at this years bike show and i blew up the free wheel i 1 hour of geting the bike new, they do unscrew realy eaisy. to prevent this you have 2-3 options 1. get a flat blade screwdriver put the blade in one of the holes that tighten the bearing cover and smack it round with a hammer untill its on supper tight 2. use thread lock (get real industrial strength stuff from a builders merchant) and thraed lock the bearing cover on. as an alternitave to thread lock use supper glue its practicaly the same stuff anyway 3. move the freewheel to the back (this sucks however) i consulted suppercycles and onza about my problem and the above avice is what THEY gave me - i havent blown up another freewheel since so it must work hope that helps:D