Zoo_Monkey

the image is a bit lower res so sorry it looks abit grainy hows that?

iv got the onza carbon booster on my T-Pro its a great bit of kit comes with nice bolts and spacers plus its relay strong and light. ill post a pic when i get home. i also have the RB designs 4 bolt booster on my Zoo Pitbull - in comparison it performs about the same but the ti bolts were rubbish/poorly threaded not much to chose from when it comes to brake boosters - the echo one has Tyre clearance problems or so i have herd - so i recon the onza is one of the best about for its quality and lack of fuss hope that helps- :ermm:

my name is solomon - im from wales - good news is i may well be starting an on-line shop in the near future, trials and hard-tail stuff with custom design jobs and bike bits (i did a degree in product design so im itching to make my own stuff) althogh i dont know how long its all going to take - prob up an running by next summer with some luck :ermm: you can email me at solhill@hotmail.com nb: what year t-pro do you have ? - ill get the image form the onza site i think they have pics back to 2002

what kind of image is the buisness going to have? ill have a think se what i can do

if only sombody would pay me to design bike graphics and parts then the world would be a better place (for trials riders anyway) :lol:

Hi zak - iv done you soem simple graphics - kind of a rough checker effect on the down tube with your name in pink and tangerene, hope you like. this is only a quick job if you have any other ideas let me know

are you going to do the frame blackand the forks pink? or are you talking about some kind of design on the frame? give me an idea and ill do an artists impresion? or close enough :lol:

if you post a pic i will photoshop it in as many different colours as i can be botherd for you - my boss wont notice im on photoshop all day anyway (life as a web designer is good) :lol:

nice one - i appreciate the pic :lol: many thanks

i just checked tarty - there is a hole just behind the drop-outs, a pic would be cool thanks :lol:

im in work so all i can say is i think so? im pretty sure but you may know better its and 05 T-Pro (like everyone else)

i got some snail cams today - i have no idea how they work! i can see what they are supposed to do bit what does the cam push against to pull the wheel back, is it a part of the frame or something? i feel really stupid so please help :lol:

this is all news to me! i never considered bleeding a brake with water - i have box fresh mags on my zoo but an eBay job on the back of my pashley the old brake on the pash is so much more responsive and easy to pull, i always wondered why and thought it might be some kind of different brake fluid. I'm gona try this today! hope it works

i haven't checked the chain stay length yet so thx for that (altho there isn't a lot i can do to change it if they are to long) the t-pro is way more stable on the back but the tyer / rim combo is over twice as big as on my zoo iv just got a new echo hifi stem (well its in the post) meant to be for longer geometry bikes so ill let you know how it rides when i put it on next week. i am a little worried it will make other moves harder but I'm pretty good on the front wheel (or so people tell me) so i'm not to worried i might have to look at my back wheel - go for a wider rim or fatter Tyre ? any ideas ? I'm currently running a d521 and a tioga white tiger

yea - my pitbull is on my sig, i also have a T-pro which i kind of call mine but its really my girlfriends rig i really think I'm gona have to get a higher rise stem like the echo Hifi my problem is that I'm not sure if its the bike at fault or me - i hate blaming my components and like to think i should be able to adapt to anything but in this case I'm not sure what to do, pussy out and spend £30+ on a stem or just live with it and try to adapt

iv just spent the last two weeks riding a T-pro rather than my zoo and iv progressed more in that time than i have in the last two months, i think its all down to the geometry of the bike id like to get my zoo more like the t-pro geometry, the problem i have with the zoo is its a lot of effort to get the front end up when pedal kicking and pretty much any move that requires the front to be pulled up. rather than the snappy response i get with the t-pro its slow and a huge effort which never leaves you in the best position balance wise. the stem on the zoo is 100mm/5deg with 35mm spacer stack, the frame is the yao zhi longer model, I'm going to change the forks to zoo forks because i think they are swept to far forward. not sure what to do, id like to change the stem but will this help much - any advice would b e great

if you have a puncture its usaly no the tubes fault - run more preasure - check your tyers for thorns, check the rims for sharp bits and make sure there is no grit inside the tyer (you can get this from changing the tube outside or in a grubby shed) if you are 11 stone plus and run 25 psi you will get pinchflats all the time.

i say get a truvative bb - they arnt the strongest but you can get one for under £30 alternitaves are - truvative Giga Pipe DH £35 abit stronger than the standard DH - FSA platnum Pro DH - probably the most commonly used bb in trials £45ish on tarty - Koxx Try all bb - £59 light but my one lasted 2 months (altho i got koxx to replace it as it was a manufacturing fault) they all weigh about the same - if you have the cash get the FSA otherwise get a Truvative or better get 2 i currently run a Truvative on my Zoo and a Fsa on my T-pro

dont think you can - the bulb body is the hub with afew bits attatched, however email hope and see what they say they may be able to help as there customer service is exelent

if you have a really dodgy chain line the chain can jump when back pedaling, the chain should be parallel to the front chain ring, this isn't always possible if you run gears so set up your bike so your fave gear runs strait. the only way to do this is to either spacer out/in the cassette or change bb length, bb length is the way to go but it can be expensive the chain can also skip if you have a stiff link - it may not be apparent when you pedal as if the link isn't to stiff but when you back pedal there is no pressure on the chain so its free to do what it wants. to fix a stiff link flex the chain by hand on every link (bend it back and for in the direction its not supposed to bend) this will free it up also check there isn't anything stuck in your derailleur and that it is strait and not bent - move the chain line into its optimum position to check this hope that helps

they say that getting longer bars is the closest you ever get to buying skill however - if you already have trials bars then a few mm wont make a difference - but you could try riser bars instead of flat or vice versa - i used to run flat on my pitbull then i got zoo riser bars and my riding improved loads. id never use flat on a stock again but then i love my flat bars on my mod so try some different ones personally id say my zoo riser bars are the best bars in the known universe

i asume everyone has seen the new echo anodised bits, i especaly like the hub (see other posts) rims and mag mounts, where can i get them? anyone herd anything?

i got a t-pro in the bike show and the free wheel came lose before i got out of the show, its def the free wheel cranks only click when you pedal the freewheel clicks regularly like and indicator. get a flat blade screwdriver in one of the holes in the duct cover/top cap/bearing cover bit (or whatever you call it and smack it round with a hammer until its tight. its not the freewheel that's crap - all freewheels will prob works lose cos the bearing cover screw thread is wound in the same direction as you pedal, this is because freewheels were designed to go on the back so the tread is reversed in this situation. to avoid this you can use threadlock, or superglue (its all the same stuff anyway) or weld the cover on hope that helps

looks heavy and cumbersome - plus where is the braking surface? i assume this is a back wheel so you will have to get it ground unless you run a rear disk. i posted a while back about rear rims - vredict was a Onza Ronnie, strong wide and cheap. what was the idea behind the syncross?

i think martin ashton put it best when he said - "people think we run realy low air pressures in our tyres but we actualy run them quite hard, they are just seen in extreme conditions" runing next to no pressure in your tyers is graet for grip and stability if you are smooth and light, however if you are 13 stone+ and like most of us still heavy on the bike the for heavens sake put some air in the tyers. realy - i ride with alot of people we all run 30-40psi one runs 20-25 but he is 15 and one runs 50-60psi because he hates punctures - and he never gets them, plus he is a damn good rider and very smooth which just goes to show its personal preference. trust (Y)