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Zoo_Monkey

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Everything posted by Zoo_Monkey

  1. my bad - (Y) thanks for the correction
  2. just to add - its always worth checking the chain for stiff links, this can also have the same effect (althogh its much less likley) but it can save you hours of repairs to have a quick check aside from that - i agree it sounds like the hub is foo-bared (Y)
  3. TENSILE UCI = front freewheel with a choice of 16t or 18t bash guard TENSILE crank-set with bash guard = 5 bolt spider for standard front chain ring they are beautiful cranks - i love them (i run the UCI on my T-PRO) however i don't like the new echo cranks (Y) sure they look good in the pics but how long will that finish last then they will look (as i have said before) as scabby as a Pikey on an Apollo get the tensiles you wont regret it (Y)
  4. they are just HS33 with plastic levers and less power - they are designed for a cross country market, i consider them pretty out-dated the only reason they appear on trials bikes is when a company are trying to budget a bike but need the perceived value of hydraulic rim brakes to sell the rig for that bit more. (ie saracen) the hs11 is about the only difference in the saracen 2.6 and the 2.6H (h-for hydraulic) and it relay isn't worth the bother my advice save the extra £20 and get HS33 they are more than a standard in trials they are a legacy
  5. just to agree with the general consensus -- its overkill the main difference in the hope range is how the pistons work to provide modulation and how the heat is dispersed. power wise (talking trials locking power) there isn't much noticeable difference. plus the brake will be very heavy in comparison to a small specific trials brake. personal id save my cash and get a hope mono or a magura Julie or Louise.
  6. odi lock-ons are great, and my hand are the same size as my girlfriends (Y)
  7. ill just take this opertunity to agree with people and say Hope XC - cheep and smoothe as a chocolate moose, plus if it ever does what your shomaon did - you can send it back to hope and they will fix it (bonus) (Y) they come in nice colours and are pretty strong enough to take anything
  8. would be nice if i could aford Frame: Onza T-Pro 05 Forks: GU Cranks: Tensile UCI - 18t ACS Front Rim: Echo CNC Rear Rim: Echo CNC (maybe) or Ronnie with a grind Front Hub: 06 Echo Rear Hub: 06 Echo Fixed Bars: Zoo 06 riser Stem: Echo Mod stem Tires: Maxxis Creepy Crawlers Pedals: Onza Hognesium Grips: ODI lockons (with anodised claps) bearings: Echo 06 head-set / BB brakes: HS33 rear with plasmatics or Zoo (or Spanishfly/koxx browns on a grind) Hope trials with anodised upgrade to match rims and bits Goodridge braided hoses black spokes and nipples but i cant (Y)
  9. i love anodised bits but in some places anodising isnt realy appropriate. like the new echo cranks! how many rides befor they look as scabby as a 1998 appolo full sus (Y) anyway - im realy considering getting the new echo rims they look realy good and strong but im woried abou the finish, does anyone run these rims at the moment - if so does the finish wear off pretty quick? i run D521S on my stock the anodised finish is great and relay lasts - but they are "hard anodised" is this the same thing? any info would be great thanks (Y)
  10. i run exactly the same set up as you on my zoo - see my sig or pink bike. the chain rubs on the bashguard and on the "cage" bit of the singulaor. what cranks/bash guard do you run?
  11. news to me that it even existed although i'm not a fan of koxx stuff it always seems to brake for me. looks nice i have to admit, but it will probably have the Koxx value for money (sarcasm intended) price tag as per usual :P
  12. i use tensile cranks they are the business not to fussed on the new anodised Echo cranks - sure they look good now but as soon as they get scratched they will look scabby as hell - stick with raw cranks, they look the best for longest. plus make sure u get a length which suits your bike and you. i would put 165-170 on a mod (i run 170)
  13. thanks for the info (Y) ill prob give them a try
  14. just had a look at the mitchelin comp 32-s (2.7 (Y) ) does anybody else run these they look sweet.
  15. you have 3 choices the first being the easiest 1. buy a chain whip for 2.99 2. jam the cassette and freewheel with a towel (one you don't want to use again) buy wrapping it round and under the cassette 3. make a chain whip with an old chain by attaching it to something. for example i once got an old bit of pipe (i think it used to be a seat post once) and put the chain through then got an old spoke and put that through a link in the chain so it wouldn't pull back through the tube, then wrapped the lose end of the chain right round the cassette and hey-presto instant chain-whip. but really - buy a chain whip, or lend one most people will have one if they do any work on cars - motorcycles or bikes.
  16. i currently run a Tioga Blue dragon on the front and White Tiger on the back (my crouching tiger hidden dragon combo) but I'm thinking about looking for something new. the reason for this is my damn T-Pro its far more stable on the back wheel and has loads of grip in all conditions ( Creepy Crawlers ) so does anyone have any suggestions? I'm really looking for a huge back tyre like a 3.0 or something - with a soft compound and square profile even tread pattern - but feel free to make any suggestions NB: i really dislike red tyres and coloured tyres for that - my bike is green, silver and black so i don't want to put IRC elgato's on it they will look pants. thanks for reading (Y)
  17. i dispise disks (this is my personal opinion) and i use the word acuratly (ie i relay relay relay hate disks) they rub and make anoying noises the rotors are rubbish and bend easily they have more seals to leek from (in the lever and the piston) plus they are a pain to clean if you get oil on the brake pads. aside from that they snap your frame unless its specificaly made to take disks and then they snap mit anyway out of spite i have 3 bikes none of them will ever have disks - ever, disks are usefull on dh bikes and FR bikes etc but aside from that they should be burned at the stake
  18. www.argoscycles.com are about the only bike specific company who will respray frames and do any other weld jobs or custom work for you, they are in bristol i think this is the best way to get a pro spray job. other than that buy Hammerite Spray because its eaisy to spray with for beginers and has a lasting finish, make sure you use the CORRECT undercoat for the material you are spraying (halfords will be able to help you with this) and use any clear laqure as a top coat. i have sprayed a frame with this method - but you have to be prepared to muck it up the firts time and rub it down and start again if you have no experience of spraying.
  19. sorry dude just making the point - dont count (Y) no offence ment
  20. does anyone have a barn or wearhouse to ride in? - that would be amasing
  21. its all photoshop 7 - i broke my photoshop 9 disk ;) but ist esential the same thing you just gota have a basic knowleged of it - nothing you cant learn in a day or two, i used it alot in uni so i got an excuse i see what i can do with black and silver ;)
  22. it took me ages - and im still crap but i dont even bother practising any more. it dont stop me from riding trials i like to think i have a style of my own (well almost my own) and ride without corectional hops (manifesto?) if only i was that good ;) do you actualy count? ;) i think one of the things that held me back to begin with was that i was to worried about how many back hops i could do or how high i could bunny hop - sure its kinda important but as long as you have the right idea to begin with just go out and ride
  23. some shops on eBay are great like mark-Anthony bikes direct (actually the same place as trials shop) planet x have an eBay shop where they get rid of old stock bike-dock sell on eBay, again old stock if its an individual seller then follow the above advice ie ask lots of questions and get lost of pics especially: -the BB area -the rear wheel/brake bosses/axle -the head tube
  24. ok its raining and it gets dark and cold at 6pm+ the wind is blowing a Gail every park/field/grass+earth type place is a bog and there are puddles as deep as your shoe from where its hasn't stopped raining the last 7 days. where do you go to ride trials? do you even bother? just interested ;)
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