DeeZee

Shins are great, I've got a pair, and I swear by them...bit bulky for winter, I wear a 661 Raceshin Lite in winter. The helmet..... oh dear God. I purchased one a week ago and sent it straight back. Its massive on my head. Looked daft. So i ordered a Pro tec helmet instead. I've an XC style helmet at the moment, but it slips, and although i've not smashed my head, I can't help but feel that if i fell off, an XC helmet would move.

I once watched Lee from MerseyTrials once slam his front wheel into a Rats corpse.... We were laughing about how dead it was (very dead) he went to pop his wheel over it, misjudged it and squished its rotten head. Brains and goo went everywhere, and I swear he got some on him. I nearly wretched from 10ft away, it was proper horrid. New Brighton seems to attract either Rat or Pigeon corpses... like zombies.

Cat poo??? are you mad Where do you ride, in garden borders? Nope, honestly say, never ridden in cat poo.

So, like the topic says. I was riding in New Brighton - Wirral. Just a small warm up, and I ended up with the biggest dog poo in my rear tyre. By the time I started squeeling like a girl, the poo has lodged itself between the stays and the wheel, then dragged up onto the Magura's and the brake booster. I had to take my wheel off, and using a wide array of sticks and a towel I found (please don't ask) it took twenty mins to wipe off.... I gagged alot. There was like, 5 kgs of this on my frame. But its not the first time poo has got on my bike. People have a go at me lots for "Wrecking the place" but i'm sure Dog Poo ruins a park for everyone, whether your riding or not. Does anyone else really go mad, when the see dog owners letting thier dogs crap in the parks we ride in?

LMAO Good sites don't come for free, or the Interweb wouldn't be so full of crap. Thats why a website like this stands out. It takes ages to make a really good site. And they can come cheap. My Game Clan wesite, only costs £40 a Year. The FART Squad That has forums, galleries and the such. Oh and a spell check wouldn't go a miss

Thin can be very strong. Imagine a steel ruler, bend it on flat, very very easy, even though its very wide. Turn it on its side and its super thin, but you'll never ever bend it. Its an extreme example but the principles apply. So a thicker walled rim helps, but also by having a wider wall, gives alot more strength. Then if you can share the load between the 2 walls of the rim (like the curved inner edge of the mavic - much like the way an arch in a bridge helps spread the load) it all helps. To conclude then class.. .... Its not just the thickness of the wheel, its the enginnering of its profile. Anyone feel free to correct me if i'm wrong I'm a construction engineer, so know little about alumium extruding and profiling

I did this one, when I slipped off my pedal on a landing... only about 1ft drop LOL. The spikes in the pedal just chopped out a section about the size on a penny and scratched my actual shin bone. Took weeks just to scab over and stop weeping goo.

My brakes feel crap at the moment anyway, but i've lots of problems with the rear of my bike. Hub bearings have gone, QR skewer is bent, rim is too narrow for brakes, derailleur its damaged and slips, and the wheel has tar on it, but its more like vasoline if it gets wet So its making it tricky to track down the exact problem. But a new wheelbuuild should narrow down the list of suspects.

I've searched and seen a zillon topics on "How do I bleed my maguras/maggies/hs33s" But What i'm trying to find out is if there is any particular service interval for them. My Onza T-Rex is around 5-6 months old, and i'm wondering, if like a car, there is a recommended service interval for the brakes. I don;t really fancy having to drain and re-fill the brakes if there is no need.

Nah, the piston stays still, The pistons stays clamped, its just when tightening up the clamps, it ALWAYS kicks off so its not dead parallel. As for the Rim, Cheers for the advice i'll have a search on the forum for decent stock rims, see what info turns up..... if not, i'll start a short topic on it........ maybe

OK, Cheers guys, some good practical advice..... I'm off to find somewhere to buy sleeves from. Or just rotate them. As for a new rear wheel, well I've knackered the bearings on my hub, so was thinking of getting a whole brand spanking, shiney new rear wheel. I've seen Onza Ronnie Rims, or Hogs.... but I dunno if a hog is perhaps to wide....

Isn't this your second post on the same rubbish? Considering what crap this is, I don't think I'm being too rude by asking you to keep it to one post, we don't need 2 posts by the same person, on the same topic, at the same time...... http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=67404

Do you think the problem may also be that my stock T-rex (spec 1) has a thinish rear rim? Because I have to push the cylinders all the way in, and do a few turns on the TPA before the pads bite in properly. I'm not sure of standard rim sizes? but I would have thought that I shouldn't have to push the cylinders all the way in.

I think you'll find that the "Black Crap" AKA "The Poo of Christ" is amazing. Tar saves many trials lives. Ask any Vietnam Veteran, and he'll tell you the same. But yer, I do find that the sleeve isn't sitting dead true in the clamp.... but thats part of the problem, when tightening up the clamps the sleeve slips with the cylinder. Come on, Someone must have a good idea how to set up the cylinders parallel without them slipping?

Hiya, I've come to extract more of everyone's lovely brain goo / knowledge. (And yes, I have searched for similar problems) My problem is the rear Magura HS33 on my Onza T-Rex keeps slipping when I'm trying to tighten it up. So the pad never sits parallel to the rim, its always pointing a little bit in or out. Also one of the cylinders always takes up all the adjustment on the TPA, so I have loads of problems getting both pads to sit an equal distance off the rim. Is there any fool-proof way of getting the pad to sit dead parallel to the rim? And how can I stop one of the cyclinders being lazy so it takes up all the adjustment? I'm getting sick of the brakes not locking dead tight, the wheel slipping, and me pedal kicking the bike into oblivion, while I land square on my arse Thanks

OK, Thanks for everyone's replies, apprciate you taking some time to contribute towards the thread. From the responses, everyone seems to be taking about derailleurs and tensioners, so i'm guessing that in a roundabout way your answer is NO, You can't run a Stock without a derailleur or Tensioner.

Is it wrong to count my Girlfriend as a possession To be fair, I do chain her to a radiator, so I kinda do own her. If not, then probably my Canon D-SLR and my lenses

I Don't know what a Ghost cog is matey. As for the protector, yer I know what you mean now i've seen the pic. I'm not sure it would help, the majority of incidents end up smacking off the weakest bit - where the barrel adjuster is. I think its because its the lowest, and weakest part of the whole derailleur. Once that goes, the derailleur just keeps slipping the chain out of gear.

I'm thinking, why do trials bikes insist on hanging delicate parts off the rear stays? It would make much more sense if the tension was added between the 2 stays, rather than flopping about underneath them. I can understand on a mountain bike, or anthing with lots of gears, but why at all on a single speed set up? I suppose its not an issue if you prefer hopping to the left. But for us unfortunate souls who go right, its just an accident waiting to happen. Incidently, no, i don't know what a rear mech protector looks like. Do you have a pic. I have a Onza mech saver, but thats just cos I bent a hanger once, and it ruined it.

urrrmmmm..... nope. Whats that then? I know its not as simple as a Mod bike, cos that runs BMX style gears on it. I just thought, if its been done on a Mod, why not do something onto a Stock.

Hello, I've a 2005 T-Rex, and I have a strong right side, so everytime I bail / crash / cock up, the bike tends to hit on the derailleur side. Is there any way to do with out a derailleur, go single speed, and just not have anything there, no derailleur or tensioner. Sure I know a cheap deraileur is only £15 and I break one every 3 months, but Its not the cost, its the fact I have to walk the bike home and loose a few days riding, when I muck up. I've read a few topics on single speed, but people still got something on the drop out, whether its a butchered rear mech or just a tensioner. Thanks.