DeeZee

Wiggle Bikes Also have a large selection of avid brakes

What about tommorrow (Sunday the 8ths of Jan)? If the weather is nice? Will you be buying Iced cream?

I think you'd be better going a little faster. You kinda just rolled up to it, i'm assuming because you couldn't get the timing on the stroke??

How much money are you getting for all this insurance? Did you have a golden bike, with handlebars made from unicorn horns. With a seat made from the cross jesus was crucified on? Either way, sure, I ride a spec1 T-rex, its all I could afford to buy with my hard earned cash, but had to upgrade it, cos some parts started to fail after 6 months. Its a great bike, although despite having strong stays, still could use a brake booster.

I started trying to do more technical stuff on a XC bike.... but was getting sick of everything getting in the way......... then someone pointed out trials bikes (no sus and no seat), so I got one of them. Thats when it really took off. Before that, it was just get ups, jump offs and side hops.

brake boosters help remove the flex from the rear stays. They just bolt over your existing brake, through the brake bolt holes (2 bolt or 4 bolt flavours). When you get them, you get larger bolts, to accomadate going through the booster and the brakes, before going into the mounts.

My Square taper cranks always work loose. Every few rides I have to pop an allen key into them and stand on it to tighten it up. You'll NEVER manage to turn a allen key by hand enough to make them fully tight, unless your hercules, which i'm not Anyway the gist of it, is I can always tell when they need tightening cause they get noisey. Regular clicking noises are more likely to come from chain and gears though.

you'd have to buy a bowler hat, and a suit, cause you'd look like you were riding a penny farthing.... i've attached a picture for clarity... its a 26" front, and a 24" rear

Its not available as a download. You can buy it seperatly from the Office Suite for around £150-00

I love watching a decent trials vid. But lots of them are 1 obstacle in 1 scene. Then its another scene and another obstacle. Then some sidehop onto a pallet. Then a pedal kick from a wall onto a handrail, then onto the road. Eventually they all become the same.... Boring. Yer sure, the riders are great, no arguments there, I just prefer people to do trials... obstacle to obstacle to urrrr another obstacle. I love watching Riki on Canberra trials, as he adds flair and links a few moves together, over a few obstacles. I just like to see people linking obstacles and tricks. I've watched too many videos of some guy jumping on and off a park bench, pedestrian rail, side hopping on pallets. I'm not trying to undermine what these people can do... I've just seen it all before.

OK, i know its not much help, but I do know that you have to have converted the movie, not only to MP4, but also to a set screensize(QVGA?)... or smaller. I also believe that the filename needs to be stupid.... so something like M4V31337.mp4

Norton Anti-Virus doesn't have a firewall.... are you using something like Norton Internet Security? Just turn the firewall off... see if it connects... if not, its not the firewall. Make sure that the firewall built into XP isn't being an arse aswell.

Downloading games is very very wrong but its only available on a PSP that has 1.52 version firmware, I.E. out of the box, no updates. As for movies, they go into a directory E:\MP_ROOT\100MNV01, where E:\ is the drive letter of your Memory Stick (when accessed from the PC) You should avoiding connecting the PSP to your PC, always use a memory card reader. This is only to avoid Sony updating your PSP, which affects its useability.

I'm assuming that its snapped on the welds? which is a bit poo. You'll have to loose a few Lbs and get a stock bike until then

I wouldn't buy a D50. Its a false economy, as the images they produce are on the poorer side. Plus, no one seems to have mentioned good lenses? I'm sure that you appreciate a DSLR is just a body, a crap lense will be slow, and be usless in anything other than bright conditions. You then need a fast lens. a f/2.8 will set you back £350+. Where as if you got a decent spec fixed lens camera, you get a faster lens, with all the settings of a DSLR. What do you intend to be taking pictures of? What zoom range do you need? Do you want manual settings? Will you be needing a flashgun, how wide do you want the lens? what memory will you be using? There are a million questions on this topic. go here, and get some proper advice Steves Digital Camera Reviews

LOL, I don't want to sound facetious but aren't some of them clips out of that "Joke" Video you made (were to be honest some of the riding was pretty good), where you said and oh and So how come you ended up putting them in this video

OK, the new Tarty wheel is on. The single speed is up and running (with some mods), but now, everytime I get on the back wheel, or as I pedal to get on the rear wheel, the rim flexes, and starts to rub on a pad?? Its the pad on the other side of the chain. Its baffling me. Its only when I'm on my back wheel. But its doing my head in, cos its flexing like 3-4mm. So my brakes are all the way off the rim, to compensate for the flex, which means the braking has gone utter crap. Any Ideas?

Thanks guys, your right, the sprocket was wonky. So instead of going with the Cog from the gusset kit, I split down the old cassette and got the sprocket out of that. Its thinner, so it needed spacers, but its running fine Really appreciate the help I've been getting tonight on my posts, cheers fellas. Makes a job go alot quicker when you have experienced people to ask

Ok, so i've bitten the bullet on my 2005 T-Rex and run it single speed, but I'm having a nightmare I've got my tartybikes wheel build with a gusset single speed kit (running and 18T on the rear, like I did when it had a cassette) I've searched the forum, but without much luck. I'm still running my Sora rear mech to keep the tension in the chain. I'll be shortening the chain at a later date (after xmas when shops are open) Its all kinda gone together ok. But when I backpedal the chain snags and bunches up. If I flip it over and back pedal then the rear mech snags on the single cog and the chain bunches up? Its doing my head in, I've got no idea how to fix it, I can post pics, describe it more if anyone can please help me.

OK, i'll re-drill the hole. It sounds easier than going to presto tubes. They have a right funny valve on em. Oh Well, You live and learn, I guess. Thanks for the tips.

Hello I got a wheel build from tarty bikes, but the rim I got (Ronnie rim) won't accept the original inner tube off my 2005 T-Rex. The hole in the rim is much smaller? Does this mean I'm going to need a new inner tube to use this rim, or can I just drill it out? If I need a new inner tube with a special valve, does that mean I'm going to need a new pump to inflate the new special inner tube. I wish someone had told me I needed a new inner tube.

Oh, its not about cash, its about coming up to Xmas Mail order is out of the question, and alot of shops are closed. I'll jsut ask in halfords or somthing.

I wanna shorten my chain on my 2005 T-Rex (I'm assuming the chain is shimano). Will I have to buy a replacement chain pin, or can the one I remove be saved? I'm reluctant to try mucking about with a chain, cos I hear so many nasty stories about chain snaps when your 6ft off the deck. But I want to try and bring the mech cage closer to the chain stay.

I always ride around with a spoke key, cause my rear wheel is well buckled. But I can't even straighten that. I'd poo myself if I had to do a whole wheel build. I just can't get all the spokes a decent tension and keep the wheel true. Tis a proper nightmare.... arrrrrrr (pirate noise)

I got a size Medium, and to be honest, the helmet did fit quite snug, its was very comfy. Bit it looked like I had a giant pea on my head. Not a good look doing trials.