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Bigman

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Posts posted by Bigman

  1. Deffiantly save for the hope, i saved for one and got the 180mm version, and it is so good, easily as powerfull as the avid, if not more, and u don't get that horrid fade like the avid, where u go down a hill and have no brake when u get to the bottom.

    Adam

  2. Lower the saddle a bit and you have a frickin awesome street machine :)

    Nice one, sus for trials is good too, so you'll still be able to do trials on it :)

    I like.

    hehe, due to the long seat post the saddle will not go any further, lol, oh well, also i don't think the wheels would stand up to alot, they are abit, um, shite.

    Oh well, good to see it is actualy rideale now, will have a blast soon.

    Adam

  3. Hi, i feel this deserves its own topic as the sucess in this idea is brilliant.. So, basically i fort i would do some cutting and shutting with my old hope disk brakes to see if i can make a Super Powerful one!

    I started with a Hope mini.. the silver one (not the new black and gold one) which worked ok, but always slipped when i needed it the most... I also have a Hope enduro 4 ... with the old style lever ( not the like '98 style lever, but the one before the current ones,they got the vertical push piston )

    So what i did, i used the enduro 4-pot caliper, inplace of the mini caliper, fitted to the New style lever from my mini, and used the Mini wavey disk. it needs to be properly bled as the lever feels a little bit spongy at 1st as its not the correct lever, but i found as it beds in, it feels a lot more solid.. the 4-pot pads reach the top half of the mini wavey disk , right where the groves are, and when you apply the brake, they properly bite into the edges!

    With this combination of parts, my front brake works absolutely amazing, it bites so well and still has good modulation. everyone who has rode my bike, even a couple of d/h'ers that have the 6-pot things, couldn't believe how Powerful my front brake is!

    So, if anyone is annoyed with their mini / mini mono and has a spare enduro 4 caliper lying around, Bolt that caliper on!!

    Ry

    :-

    U know that all u have done is make an M4 brake, as i think the calipers are pretty much the same, and m4's use the mini lever, so that is all that u have done.

    I personaly think my hope mono trial is AMAZING, it just feels SO nice, and has all the power there that is needed, plus a ton more, it has plenty of bite, yet is still easy to modulate, much easier than an avid bb7.

    Adam

  4. BT > Onza.

    The BT looked so much better.

    However, its how it rides, so if rides better, then good buy :)

    Still swap back to the BT though :P

    Nicks Bt had way to much of a wierd Geometry, it had an increadibly steep head angle, which made it feel just plain strange, i will admit to them being awsome frames, i mean i had mine for a PROPPER year and i absolutly loved it, but there is time or changes and now is it, i love my rex feels similar to the BT but a slightly slacker head angle just makes it alittle different, gaps to front wheel on the rex feel much more stable, if u know what i mean, it is just a nice change, all i want now is to get my rear wheel back so i can give it a proper thrashing.

    I am sure nicks will be knackered soon, seeing as how his riding has got, how shall i say, um..... ROUGH lately.

    Adam

  5. Hmm, looks okay i supose, and u never had your Bt for any where near a year June wasn't it dude, so 9 months pha not a proper year like i had mine for :P looks quite similar to mine, but the thing is, it will ride pretty much identicle, seeing as our setups are near identicle,

    Any whay, heres mine too:

    gallery_84_50_32697.jpg

    The Cornish BT guys are now officialy REXY babys :)

    Adam

    PS: mine is better :D"

  6. Dunno why u said i would turn up with much, :( but i have made a few things, well, sort of.

    Here is my Carbon booster i made for my DT project, 9mm thick, and works a treat:

    gallery_84_50_64344.jpg

    Not sure if this counts, but this is my middleburn bash that i turned down on the lathe, 20t size now, with material taken off the back to make clearence for a KMC kool chain. I also made the tool to fit it onto the lathe, but i have no good pics of that, and it is no where near as good as Edd Potts's one.

    gallery_84_50_60587.jpg

    I also made a frame :) um, didn't turn out as i wanted it to realy, lol, got a few measurements wrong, please don't laugh at it, it has fealing as well u know.

    gallery_84_50_46217.jpg

    I have also made some 50mm coust pads, um, abit good on a koxx rim they are :blink:" lucky Rob.

    Adam

  7. I have to agree with wayne and matt on this, those rolhoff tensioners are awsome, but i do not have one as i can not afford it, i do on the other hand have an XTR mech, :ermm:" (got it free, before anybody says anything) it keeps very nice tension, and can take a hammering, i have 90 degreed my hanger with this mech, and it is still mechanicly perfect, it has scratched etc, like u would expect it to, here is a pic of my bike atm, with my mech showing how tight my chain is, not sure if having the mech that tight is a good thing or not, but it isn't my wheel i am running at the moment, so meh.

    gallery_84_50_32697.jpg

    Adam

    PS: rex is yummy.

  8. For those who saw the pics of the new echos i posted up a while ago, well the echo site has now been updated, with pics of a fully built Hi-Fi, and as i am so nice, here is one of those pics:

    gallery_84_50_72673.jpg

    Looks so much nicer fully built.

    Oh, and also there are new forks and cranks on echos new site, the Hi-Fi and new team forks feature a CNC crown, and are curved, yet only 400mm which is nice to hear, go to Echo Bike for a ganders,

    Adam

  9. 1 x 5mm allen key

    1 x lockring adjusting tool

    Hold lockring with tool (might need a vice), and then undo the non drive side end cap with allen key. Lockring should then unscrew easily (holding the axle by hand).

    That is what nick has sent me, but it has not arrived, that idea works easy, but at the moment i have no lockring tool.

    Adam

  10. Righty then, the other day my axle snapped, and i have no idea of how i am gunna remove it, nick has sent me a tool which we used to remove his last week but it has yet to arrive, and i want to get it all taken apart today so that i can send the relevent parts that i need to, thing is, is it has snapped just inside the cassette body, right by the notched lock rin, there is no was of clamping anything on there, so basicly what can u guys think i could try.

    Pic:

    gallery_84_50_161238.jpg

    Thanks

    Adam

  11. This is all sounding awsome dude, i only have a few little things that concern me, one of which being your move to expert, (i do not mean any offence etc when i say this) but i think that you would be best suited in intermediate, as that seems to be where your skill level sits well, i mean u and I had a nice little competitive thingy last year, especialy at the last round where i felt the sections for each level, expert, inter etc were set out VERY well, near enough perfect, and found them very enjoyable to ride, what i don't want to see happening is because of your move up to expert that the quality of the sections decrease in order to make them more "ridable", as i do not what to end up entering inter, which i plan on doing, and finding that the sections are easier than last year, to compensate for the easier sections for higher groups (i am sure i will be back up for this).

    Like i have said if the sections are set out as good as the ones in that final round, last year i would deffiantly say that you are in for winner as the set out of the sections goes.

    Also, the places that they are being held, can u tell them as they were last year, ie: is hedge burton where the first or secon comp was held last year? etc, just so i get an idea of what to expect at each round, as i can not remember the names of each of the places.

    Meaning no offence: Adam

    PS: should be resieving my forms sometime very soon.

  12. im guessing you just drilled the holes by eye, to the side of each spoke?

    cheers

    Will

    Yes, i did do it by eye, i get VERY impatient when marking things out, and when it is my own stuff, i just tend to go right ahead :"> the holes are on on each spoke, and then one inbetween, if it was somebody else's wheel i would mark it all out nicely :D

    Glad every one seems to like it.

    Adam

    PS: nick, chat to u on msn. :P

  13. Looks like you did a neat job :D Probably not saved much weight but it looks good  :P

    How hard was it to do? I assume you used a pillar drill?

    dunno if it lost much weight, not to bothered to be honest, just love the way it looks, lol, how gay is that :"> .

    Normaly i would have used a pillar drill, but because i was a lazy b*****d and could not be bothered to de-build my wheel i used just a standard electric drill, it is easy enough to do, it just takes a while, as u have to drill each hole, then go around with the counter sink tool and counter sink each one, like i said, i was very bored.

    Adam

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