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omgnoseat

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Posts posted by omgnoseat

  1. That would be fine, I've done that in the past, as long as there's at least ~4mm of axle in the dropout it'll be ok. Didn't read the thread in full detail, but you can afford a slim spacer between the crank and FW too, nothing too wide as the threads are a bit oversized on the ENO, but 2-3mm will help pinch you a bit of space (Y)

    About the original issue - unfortunately user error :( The Try-All hub you have in there is VERY wide.

    Yeah I'm running a spacer there now :)

    Using an echo SL btw!

    Oh I wasn't aware that the hub was the main problem.

    Might still need to buy a new hub if the freewheelspacer and new cog give me enough clearance.

    Will post some more picture's tomorrow, it still feels unsafe. But I really can't afford a new hub right now :(

  2. I guess the chain could've been a bit slack, so it only raised high enough to grind on the chainstay when under load...

    But yeah - just need a freewheel spacer. (Or a bashring. So much nicer to not have a plate. Plates should be illegal :P)

    Edit: I just looked at the pictures and realize that probably was not the case :giggle:

    I hardly ever use my bashplate, and the guard came with the frame anyway :P Don't want to spend any more money, the frameset already drained my wallet.

    Still waiting for the freewheel spacer to arrive, I've been looking at my screw on sprocket aswell, and I don't think I can flip the the cog arround since that would cause it to rub the spokes because the teeth are at the very end of the thread.

    I've looked on tartybikes but it's hard to see from the pictures. Are there any screw on cogs that have the teeth centered on the cog?

    Edit: almost forgot, I need one with 12 teeth!

    Edit2: Found some centered cogs, but they are listed under singlespeed. Are these usuable as a rear cog aswell?

    Sorry for all the basic questions, never had any trouble with cogs before!

  3. here's my take.

    The frame design is fine (if a little close). I don't understand how you could have ridden the frame without knowing that was happening? Your setup isn't fine otherwise it wouldn't have happened. the frame is supplied with bottom bracket spacers, the freewheel spacer isn't supplied because they come with Echo cranks.

    I am afraid the fault is with the user in this case, the first ride (or even the first time the bike is assembled) should be sufficient to to realize the setup rubs. Those frames are fine when the correct spacers are used.

    Yea I´m not sure how I didn´t notice aswell, I didn´t feel any friction while spinning the wheel.

    I guess I should view this as a lesson next time I get a new frame!

  4. This is why I design frames you would have to put a 30 tooth cog before the chain hits mine. It is their fault for sure, quite simply put they didn't put enough clearance with the seatstay design, the seatstay will flex a bit when you ride and the chainline needs to come nowhere near the frame when you pedal. It is just too close. I would say ride the frame if you want to save money, it could break but isn't too dangerous I have had a seatstay snap when I was riding, the chainstay and other seatstay usually hold the frame together so you can just replace it when that breaks it also might not break altogether. But yeah it should be warranty in my opinion. You are running totally normal gearing... or consider switching to the new fans evo frame. They are designed and built with quality but are a bit pricey compared to the echo.

    side note: I once gridned the frame so deep on the seatstay on my GU that their was a hole in it and it didn't break. You are probably safe to ride it but it will be hard to stop that, cause the seatstay will always flex somewhat so its likely to get worn down more.

    Thanks, thats a real relief!

    It's not a question of the gearing, it's a question of the spacing. Echo supply a spacer with their cranks for you to use if you aren't using a bashring, and this spaces your freewheel over. If you use that spacer, there's no problem.

    large_litesl7.jpg

    That's a pre-built Echo Lite SL. You can just about make out the spacer behind the freewheel. Same on the 'standard' one too. We've sold over 25 20" Echo Lite full builds and haven't had any issues like that at all.

    Quality wasn't really one of the factors that stood out on the Evo frames we received. Well, it was in a way in so much as the lack of quality control was pretty apparent.

    I just got the frameset, so I didn't have the spacer :( But I figured that the bottom bracket spacers were sufficient since they were supplied with the frame..

    I think the issue with warranty is that the chain must've been hitting since the bike was built. Nothing has changed or failed, except you failing to notice the issue :P! I'd have though hub flange spacing is as much of an issue as BB spacers too- I know flange spacing and so chainline is certainly not constant between different hubs so would also affect things.

    As has been suggested, flip your 12T cog round (might need a couple of shims to space it out a little depending on the hub, chain and sprocket) and use a smaller spacer on the BB and the frame will probably last without any problem. Well, it'll eventually break somewhere but I doubt it will be where the chain's been rubbing.

    Yea I guess it's a long shot, but like I mentioned above, it seems like I've set up everything right. There could be a chance (event if it's small!) that the problem exists because of a design flaw in the frame.

    I wonder how many more times that needs to be said before it's accepted as the correct answer?

    I will get one, but I was just seeing what my options were, because I don't really like spending 12 pounds on shipping for one small item.

  5. Spacer behind the freewheel (they usually come with one to use if you're not using a bashring so you can get your chainline half decent), and a 3/32" chain = problem solved. I've seen frames a lot worse than that before that have been fine in the long run (as long as you don't keep the setup as it is, obviously...).

    I don't think the pictures really show the damage, the chainstay wall can't tbe thicker than 1mm anymore :(

    How would another spacer make things better? I actually thought I needed a smaller spacer since the chainline is too much outward now.

  6. Wouldn't be surprised if it's user error. Bent frame? If it was touching at first and everything was straight to begin with you should of questioned it then, not now.

    Apologies if i'm reading this wrong. But i'd say if the frame is in the condition you say it is, 'pretty much new state', then this is for sure a warranty claim.

    Though not surprising, there was a Lite with crooked mounts a while back. Though that was blatantly obvious and shouldn't of left the shop, yet others seemed to think that was acceptable :S

    I didn't notice it because it's in such a difficult location to spot, judging from how deep it has been eating in the frame I think it has been like this since the beginning.

    my mate rides an Urban, a lot older I know but from hooks the chain is pushed into the underside of his chainstay, could be this? In which case it probably comes down to wear and tear

    Wear on the sprockets can cause the chain to be "sucked" up to the chainstay. Happened with my Neon Bow but that was a design error and surprisingly wasn't valid for warranty.

    The damage is on the inner side of the upper chainstay tube (side facing the hub).

  7. Unfortunately it's wear and tear rather than a fault as such, other than obviously being a bit of a design issue.

    If it's been poorly made (a bad example in a run or whatever) then you might be able to get some help, or if it's not possible (with any setup) to run, but chances are you're going to be fairly out of luck on this one. Best bet will to be to get in touch and find out for sure though

    Wing a pic up when you can so we can see what sort of tolerances are at play

    Yeah thats what I was afraid of. But I still think it's strange that the chain is rubbing when I'm using the parts that are supplied with it. The frame + parts is not a deal from the shop, but echo themselve actually came up with the package.

    depending on gearing you are running could mean there is not enuff clearance from chain and frame.

    It's a mod so 18-12 is pretty much the only gearing you should use. I even use an echo freewheel!

  8. I've bought a echo lite 2011 frame about 2-3 months ago at trialshop.pl . The service was pretty much spot on and I was very satisfied with the new frame! The frame came with a bottom bracket and spacers between the bottom bracket and cranks. So I've installed everything and it all seemed fine.

    Went on a ride this weekend, got a puncture in my rear tire so decided to fix it. Then I noticed that the inside of my chainstain had been eaten away by the frame pretty badly. Immediatly stopped biking and moved on with my bike in my hand so the chain couldn't do any more damage.

    I'm very careful with my bike, use a chainstain protector, don't throw it etc. The bike is in pretty much new state apart from some very minor scratches, and ofcourse the chainstay.

    I'm pretty much devastated by the damage to the chainstay, It wouldn't be so bad if it was from a crash or an accident. But I really couldn't do anything about this. I installed the frame the way it was supposed to and I used the parts that were ment to be used on the frame. The chainline is completely straight, it's strange that the chain is rubbing the frame, the provided bottom bracket/crank spacers are clearly too wide.

    It's almost impossible to spot because the chain is blocking the view to the damage area, so I only noticed it when fixing the puncture.

    The shop provides 6 months of warranty, do I have a leg to stand on?

    imag0399u.jpg

    Damage hidden from chain

    imag0400g.jpg

    Chain pulled down

    imag0405j.jpg

    This probably shows best how deep the damage is (my fingers look weird because I'm pulling the chain down :P)

    imag0402o.jpg

    chainline top

    imag0403t.jpg

    chainline bottom

  9. I'm at my manual phase again.. more determined than ever now! I've promised myself that I will practise manuals at least 1 hour every day, one week long. However..it's not going really well.

    My fork is cut of way too low so I can use only one spacer, which makes the bars way too low when you look at my bottom bracket rise. Could this affect my manual skills, or am I just making an excuse for myself?

    28172324208847249840410.jpg

    Geometry:

    Wheelbase: 1020mm

    Chainstay Length: 350mm

    BB Rise: 80mm

    Pulling into manuals is pretty bad, because I have to pull so hard that I often overshoot, or my stance is messed up when pulling. So I'm trying them from a wheelie now, is that bad? Do note that my biggest problems with manuals is actually staying in the manual spot rather than actually getting in it.

    I discovered that my manual spot is much closer to looping out than to dropping the front wheel. Might sound a bit weird, but I feel more comfortable to hold a manual while I'm about to loop out, instead of keeping the front wheel low. The front wheel feels like it wants to pull down when I'm trying to keep it low.

    This causes my stance to almost be "leaning back", similiar to atsuya

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEK3fZFsfTE&feature=BFa&list=UU8EFg3F5LPAErT8KgY8hmxw&lf=plcp

    When trying to drop the front wheel, I bend my knees, but this only causes me to lean back even more which only makes the front wheel rise, at that point I press the rear brake and drop the front wheel completly(and die a little inside).

    Because of this stance, it's very difficult to correct myself when I feel like I'm about to loop out. So most of the time I fail due to looping out, instead of dropping the front wheel.

    Should I correct my stance? Or might this be due to my low front end?

    I will try to get someone to capture a video of me tomorrow.

  10. Nice balanced package of skills, keep it like that! Don't become a one trick pony, which can be very tempting when you find out your best skill. You also seem to push yourself to get everything out of the skills you posess.

    Overall the video was very entertainng with the variety of moves and spots.

    Keep up the good work! :)

  11. I remember someone posting a video on this forum (don't think it was this specific topic). It was a bmx video which has "trials influences" in it, it was mainly focused on being creative with the enviroment instead of doing tricks. The topic name mentioned something about bmx with trials, but I cannot recall what it was!

  12. Silver has got to be the worst colour for an inspired :P

    But the video was awesome, way too short though!

    Ali's gap at 01:31 has something strange about it, looks like he's falling really slow.

    Almost forgot, your air at 01:00 looks incredibly sexy mark.

  13. That fifty6 logo is looking nice and clean, I like it.

    On the subject of logo design. Was visiting the girlfriends family in Cheshire and one of her uncles talked about started his own furniture business (He does it at the moment but doesn't have an identity or anything)

    So I offered to have a go at doing him a logo. He said how he wanted to aim it a bit upper-class as its the kind of people he usually works with and he thinks his work is of that standard.

    Now i'd not really designed anything for that kind of look before but gave it a bash anyway. I know its simply a typographic logo and there's not much to it but I like it.

    What do you guys think?

    6103244217_7377f87c80.jpg

    Larger version

    It really communicates the "upper class" feeling, it looks classy! No gimmicks. good job :)

    As for the whole thingy about JD's logo.

    There is simple and there's plain, and yours feel plain.

    There is nothing in the logo that communicates any elements about your company.

    It's a big improvement from the previous logo though!

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