Mark W

Chainstay protector then (Y)

Holy crap, there is actually a working Magura TPA FAQ now :- Right, here's the pics: First of all, you should have a little piston attached to your lever. The little flappy thing that'll probably fall off and go underneath whatever cupboard/box/pallets/friend you've got around. That's not in this pic, 'cos I lost the one off this lever blade. Don't worry aobut it for now :deej: 1. First of all, make like the top left picture and jimmy off your red TPA knob with a screw-driver/gnarled claw. 2.Now, you should be like the top right picture. You'll again want to use a biro/pen/pencil/screwdriver/allen key to push out the little metal sleeve inside the lever bolt hole. 3.After doing this, you'll move on to the bottom left pic. The little flat piece of metal that the little pistony bit was attached to is now a seperate entity. 4.Following on from this, moving onto the middle picture, take the TPA bolt bit out of the lever blade by pushing it down from where the red knob formerly was. 5.After this is out, you'll probably have the little square nut in one hand with a bit of bolt in it, and then a seperate little bit which is the sheared part. This sheared part is what was stopping your TPA working before. 6.Get the sheared part OUT of that square nut. It's not doing you or your image any favours. Once that's out, you'll be at the stage of the bottom right picture. 7.Now, you'll need to get your M5 bolt ready (same thickness as a 4-bolt Magura bolt (Y)). 8.Push the little square nut up through the bottom of the lever blade (so you're just rebuilding it). 9.Once that's poking it's ugly head out of the top of your lever blade, screw the M5 bolt a little way in (just to hold it in place :P). 10.Once this is done, push the bit of metal that formerly had the TPA bolt on it (the bit that sheared. I'm talking about the little U-shaped bit of metal). Push that up underneath the square nut. 11.Having done this, push the flat bit of metal we spoke about earlier (which the piston was attached to?) up into the lever body as you took it out. 12.Push the little metal sleeve back in. Mark's Warning: This can be a bitch to do. Just force it :D 13.Once this is done, push the piston back into place (you push it in at an angle and it'll go in easy. Pretty obvious though :)). 14.You now have a bodged (it actually works better...) TPA. Woo. Mark NOTE: The lever blade in question has a working TPA, hence the non-sheared bolt. Just to clear that up :)

Auto Reply Please use the gallery for bike pics threads. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=45918 Hey dude, we've been told to start using the new "Auto-Mod" features for Bike Pics thread, so you'll have to repost it in the bike pics thread. If you want feed back, just leave a link to the comments bit (Y)

Sorry, I meant "guard" not "Guide" :P Was distracted with talk of Chinese food (Y)

8 speed cassette body just means you've gotta get some carbon fibre spacers (think: Whitehurst (Y)) and bosh them on there to make up the room.

They might mean that one that he bunnyhops up to back wheel in the street ride in Paris. It's randomly inamongst some Herm' and Belaey stuff. It's pretty freakin' crazy.

Cheers for the review (Y) Although I do still think you're a b*****d for having so many nice bikes :P

It could well be that the little washery/spacery bit the other side of the lockring has got a bit mashed up and it's affecting the freewheel. The ACS Fat on my BMX is doing that at the moment :deej: Either way, it's your face you're looking after, so I'd strip it down :P Just do it carefully, and it shouldn't explode (Y)

Valid point. Don't think I've ever really gone out for a night out with friends from school or anything, and I only see some of them at work. I don't really mind though. There are people around here I'll probably miss, mostly riding friends, but I'll still see them for a bit. The people I'm going to miss most, weirdly, are the teachers (Y) 'cos I know them all pretty well. Our school has 6th form in it too, so it means that I've known them all for the last 5-6 years, and in sixth form you almost always get on a LOT better with teachers. They give you a LOT more respect, and it's just a really nice friendly relationship with them. So yeah, I think I'm going to miss some of them really. Because I'm not going to uni after that "UCAS Incident", I'm not gonna have anything to do for a year apart from try and move or something. So yeah, I know I'm gonna miss going to school. It's just a hugely important time of your life, and for me it's about to end, so that's a bit of a downer. I didn't really miss it after Year 11, but I've started to like it 10x more after sixth form. Sixth form really is damn good :P So yeah, mixed feelings really. I don't really find it bad at the moment, even though we've just had some hella tight coursework deadlines (Managed to get 131/150 for my D&T Coursework, despite putting in less than half the effort of the people who got higher marks than me. I've properly got "Minimum effort/maximum reward" dialled :D). After finishing the D&T deadline though, it was like "Whoa, never, ever going to have to do D&T again!" Then I remembered that I had to finish Art for tomorrow, so that's a downer, but still - it's all good that that's over. But anyway, people should post back in 6 months or whatever and say what they're up to :deej: Mark

Hmm, not necessarily. If you think about what the majority of riders in the Worlds are riding, a LOT are riding shorter frames (not super short or anything, but not necessarily limo-sized 1100mm frames and so on) - specially in the mod classes - and that's about as "pure" as trials gets. Just get on 'em and try them out, if you can. You can do street on a 1100 bike and you can do "pure" on a 1030 bike. It's just down to personal feeling. For example, I like my bikes short and high (same set-up on BMX and trials bike). Can't deal with long and low. Still ride mostly "pure" trials though. Just try other bikes out (Y)

I'm getting my A2 photography exam material back soon, so I might scan some of that stuff in and put it up. All done on a Fujica SLR, wet dark-room, all by my fair hand.

But isn't that picture photoshopped? What with the DMR guide looking weird and all?

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Quickly followed by an "Angry Thread" post about being dumped? :P At the moment, it's Riding > Playing bass > T-F > Bed (virtually an insomniac :P). Note the lack of gf. Ah well, moving soon hopefully ^_^ Cue "Riding sheep > Riding > Playing Bass > T-F > Bed" edits :-

I guess stuff can be random in appearance but precise by design, so I'm guessing that's largely what people are getting at in these threads.

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I bet that Koxx gave the designs for the Pitbull to some random worker in China, asked 'em to make a batch, and ended up pretty disappointed...

Er, moved to Chit Chat...

Yeah, pretty much. I got mine for £70 from "Jimbo" (James Lim) on here, although I don't think he's got any more up for grabs. But yeah, £69.50's not too bad, as long as it's brand new/boxed (Y) I think the RRP is around £80-85 from most places, to give you an idea.

Yep, basically :deej: Because when you think about it, you're running a gear ratio which gives you a mechanical advantage. For each rotation of the cranks, you're rotating the backwheel a different amount, depending on the gear you're running. This basically means that when you spin the hub, one revolution of the crank will mean that in your case, the hub will rotate 1.2 times. Because of this, you're getting all the seventy-two engagement points, plus the other engagements from the other 0.2 of the rotation of the hub. Therefore, you get 86 engagement points (Y)

Yeah, same here - I've only ever noticed it's skipped because I haven't had quite the same amount of power as I was expecting ('cos you have like 5° of 'dead stroke' as it were between the pawls), and it made a 'bang'. That's it, really (Y)

Yeah, same here really. I just find it a lot 'easier' to bunnyhop or pedal up. I say "easier" - when taps go OK, they're fine, but I'm a LOT more consistent with straight upping. Just sucks that all these stock riders are getting 50-55" tapping, and I'm limited to 50" pedalling up :deej: Just need to get a bit better at doing it I guess, but I don't really know what the limits are. Probably a good thing I guess (Y) Mark

No-one's, pretty much. Just so long as you realise (Y)

You don't actually know the circumstances, and weren't actually there, so you do realise you're totally wasting your time spouting crap about it?