Mark W

I typed it Joe. Saves having to do it over and over again. Ad might have a point. I wasn't 100% about the Sticky Fingers...the rear should be good for you 26" scum. I mean riders. It's the same grippy pattern as mods with the sticky fingers middle bit... Mark.

1. 2004 T-Pro. £399. Onza T-Pro frame (anodized), Pazzaz bar and stem (not CF). Sticky fingers tyres. Muscleman front freewheel cranks. T-Pro forks. AVAILABLE TO ORDER NOW, but components will only be here in the first week of November. After this, the bikes will be built up and sent out to whoever gave their money in first. Therefore, if you want to guarantee a T-Pro for Xmas, order soon. 2. 2004 Onza T-Bird. £299. As was T-Bird LE (HS11s), now with 19" rear wheel. Silver frame, black T-Pro forks. Onza bar & stem (black). Availability as T-Pro. 3. 2004 Onza T-Vee. £2??. 20" wheels, V-brakes, canti mounts only. Arrive mid-November. 4. 2004 T-Mag** and Master. £499 and £599 respectively. Same as previous years*. 5. 2004 Onza T-Lite. £900 build = drilled rims, Tensile cranks, Pazzaz alu stem and part CF part 7075 alu bars, ACS Claw freewheel, T-Mag hubs, super light. Worth the money for damn sure. Oh, with Ti spokes. And an RB Booster for the rear. X-Lite 221 beater for half the price? :- (If it's good enough for Gilles it's good enough for you!) 6. 2004? Onza T-Bone. New frame received this Monday from Taiwan. Will be under-going testing as soon as possible. 7. 2004? Onza Woodstock. Details sketchy. Full build n/a yet. Feels super nice on the back wheel, really stable. Should be a swish bike. Being "street-tested" now to check out strength. Looks good too! 8. 2004 Onza T-Raptor. Most spec as was previous years*, but now with Pazzaz bar and stem (full alu), sticky fingers 2.5" and 2.0" tyres, Full Fat and Half Fat rims, Onza hubs. New colour - black mostly. Looks cool! 9. 2004 Onza T-Rex - no changes to my knowledge... 10. 2004 Onza T-Comp. As T-Mag, but lighter and in blue/silver instead of pearl white/race-line yellow. Super light - COMP USE ONLY. As was said, full build = T-Mag spec*. That about covers it. Sticky fingers tyres available in 20x2.0, 20x2.5, 26x1.95/2.10 and 26x2.5. Pazzaz CF/7075 bar and alu stem £50 (bargain!). T-Pro frame only n/a until after Xmas. Questions? Ask here. Mark. *All available on www.onza.com. **Potentially being replaced by the T-Comp at some point.

My brake's feeling swish at the mo': Standard Royal Blood Standard (with a nice kink) hosing Monty X-Hydra pads Light grind RB Booster That's all, and it's so f**king nice. It just locks and holds like a mo'f**ker. We'll see in the comp though I suppose, but it feels really swish. It's the best feeling brake I've used. Mark.

Two words: Industry Standard. Why doesn't someone just come up with a standard replaceable mech hanger? There's not a whole load of difference between the designs, at least nothing that if it was changed would ruin the strength of the drop-outs or whatever. I dunno, it just seems like it'd be a lot better for manufacturers/customers if there was some kind of consistency... Mark. PS. Card Hore-style frames take the T-Raptor mech hanger.

lol Nice plastic MBUK grips there :D Anyway, have you found that the bolt becomes quite easy to turn? You can adjust mine super easily which is a bit odd...it's just nicely loose. So yeah, you can just use it without the TPA top bit on after you've sorted out the bodge :- Mark.

(EDIT: Pics are wrong! [No shit, Sherlock]) Right. "How to replace my McShite TPA", by Mark Westlake. (Pics courtesy of everyone's favourite Stud Muffin, Adam Read) To get your lever blade like that, you'll need to undo the bolt next to the number 2. This should means your lever comes off... You'll be needing to sort out the shagged TPA bit. Whip off the spangly red bit. 'fraid to say that's the last you'll be needing of that cheeky chappy, so say your final goodbyes and all that. Having done that, poke out "2" with a 5mm allen key. This should mean that 3 and 4 fall off. Having removed them, you'll be needing to sort out the shagged TPA bit. Whip off the spangly red bit. 'fraid to say that's the last you'll be needing of that cheeky chappy, so say your final goodbyes and all that. Select the following from the huge mess you've got yourself: 1 is about as useful as a Jeffrey Archer novel. That's the sheared bit of TPA bolt. It should come out without a fight, but if it chooses the "hard way", have a go at it with the ol' mole grips and whip it out. You'll need to replace it with an M5 bolt. This is the same size bolt as the one, for example, you use in 4-bolt Magura clamps or in your headset (which is the one I'm using, selected from my old T-Bird...). Having put that in instead of the TPA bolt, rebuild the lever and have a super fun happy time riding with a nice, nearly indestructible TPA. Prime. Mark. PS. If it all goes a bit FUBAR at some point, you should be able to work out how to carry on - I did mine a while back so it's not too clear in my mind... PPS. The ONLY THING that is different now is the fact you have an M5 bolt instead of the knackered TPA bolt. There should be NOTHING left outside the lever, unless you've ballsed up somewhere :-

I don't think it was mentioned, but The Train Line is the bomb Poo for train tickets and all that wank. Mark.

Well, I like my bike to move as soon as I pedal, so I run mine fairly damn tight - so when you push the chain up a bit back from the freewheel/chain-ring it moves about 3mm or so. Just means it reacts a lot quicker, and feels supremely nice. Mark.

I’m finding I’m happier with 75 in the back (Luna 2.5 tyre with a standard tube…might need to get a Reluctant thick tube or something), and about 40 in the front. That’s primarily riding street. Might need to let her hiss for a bit before riding on rocks, I suppose. Mark.

You can buy Evo-Adaptors from Supercycles and use them, but a LOT of 4-bolt mount frames seem to not really allow you to run a 2-bolt magura on an evo, and actually get it so that something doesn't hit the tyre... Anyway, take off the QR lever from the 2-bolt mount, and those plastic elbowy things that go on at the top of the clamp bit. Buy some longer bolts (usually about M5x60, but you might need to hack off the last 5mm or so of the bolts), and some washers. Line up the top hole of the clamp with the top-hole of the 4-bolt mount. Whack the brake into the clamp, put the top bit of the clamp on, then stick one of the bolts down into the hole. Tighten it up as much as you can really, although not too much or too little 'cos you'll strip the threads on your frame. Which isn't fun... Anyway, do the bottom ones up as you did the tops, really. Same as a standard Magura, and ta-da, you have a 4-bolt Magura. Unfortunately, without bodging it's a F**ker to get the 2-bolt Magura boosters to go on the 4-bolts (although you can hack the bottom bits - where the booster is usually clamped - off the CNC'd Magura booster and use two of the triangly bits, but tyre clearance can sometimes be an issue there, especially with mods). Also, you could just buy 4-bolt Magura clamps for £15 incl. p&p from CleanBikes. This would probably be more preferable, because not only do they look nicer, but also you can adjust the brake far, far more easily. This is because they have two slot-holes on the clamps - top and bottom - so you can adjust them in that way, whereas with the two-bolt clamps they only have a circular hole at the top, so you can't really move them at all. If you want more info on what the F**k I just said here, PM me or summat! Mark.

Dictas aren't too bad really. It's just that they feel Poo. On the back, they're great. They last for ages, and they don't feel too bad. Shimanos on the back for some reason just feel a bit nicer than the Dichta. They're a bit stronger, so you don't get the standard Dichta-style spongy sort of feeling with them, even though they only have 16 engagement points. I dunno, it felt like more to me. Anyway, lasted me over a year and a half, so can't complain. Even then the internals just shredded pedalling out of my garage!!! ACS Claws are the Poo, really. You could go for a White Industries freewheel, but F**k paying £80 for what is basically a very expendable part of the bike. I don't really think that on the front it's going to last £70-worth longer than an ACS (if you get me...), and Poo, you could buy 8 ACS Claws for that much, so why bother really? On the back they'd probably last a whole trials career, but there we go. Mark.