Jump to content

Trials And Street?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i was riding my trials suited bike today, and realised that you cannot actually bunny-hop American style, and on street bikes you can. I know this has stuff to do with the geometry, but what exactly makes a street bikes geometry suited to the riding style? I'm guessing this has something to do with the head-tube angle and stem geometry? But im not sure :blink: Would be great if someone could help me out here, cheers

Jody :turned:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

A good street bike would have a shorter wheelbase, steeper headtube angle, and a lower bottom bracket. Trials style frames tend to take these to extremes when compared to the rest of the Mountain Biking world. Mainly to cater for the large amount of time spent on the back wheel in trials.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

A good street bike would have a shorter wheelbase, steeper headtube angle, and a lower bottom bracket. Trials style frames tend to take these to extremes when compared to the rest of the Mountain Biking world. Mainly to cater for the large amount of time spent on the back wheel in trials.

Cheers.

longer wheelbase

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Macey hop, as opposed to a european style hop.

A what?? Where are these names coming from?

A bunny hop is pulling up on the bars, then lifting the pedals under you without a pedal stroke. This has been the case since, well, forever. Back in the BMX days I guess in the 80s?

Hopping on the spot, lifting both wheels at the same time is just 'a hop'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

A good street bike would have a shorter wheelbase, steeper headtube angle, and a lower bottom bracket. Trials style frames tend to take these to extremes when compared to the rest of the Mountain Biking world. Mainly to cater for the large amount of time spent on the back wheel in trials.

Cheers.

Not if you want it to spin well - lower BBs make things nicer if you're only going in straight lines as they're nice and stable, but if you want a flickier, twitchier (aka spinnier) bike, you'll be wanting a slightly higher BB. Not +65 or whatever, but if you look at BMXs and other bikes that are designed specifically to be good at hops, spins and tricks you'll see they've gotten progressively higher BBs over the past few years. Obviously street MTBs don't, but that's primarily because MTBing is always at least 3-4 years behind BMX ;)

This was by Mark, just using Adam's computer at the mo ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not if you want it to spin well - lower BBs make things nicer if you're only going in straight lines as they're nice and stable, but if you want a flickier, twitchier (aka spinnier) bike, you'll be wanting a slightly higher BB. Not +65 or whatever, but if you look at BMXs and other bikes that are designed specifically to be good at hops, spins and tricks you'll see they've gotten progressively higher BBs over the past few years. Obviously street MTBs don't, but that's primarily because MTBing is always at least 3-4 years behind BMX ;)

This was by Mark, just using Adam's computer at the mo ;)

Well, you learn something new everyday! Cheers Mark. (Y)

So... Short Wheelbase, steep headtube angle, and high bottom bracket. I'm guessing +20mm to +40mm is ideal then as +65mm is a bit too much?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...