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every time i bleed my rear maggie, it is spongy?


ashleys sugden

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Thank you for all your help! Sorry again for hijacking but it seems like our problems are near enough the same! Will that make my brake snappy again? When I pull the lever, it takes about 1-2 seconds for the lever to be back to where it was unpulled... In more detail when I pull the lever and let go, the lever pops back half way and then slowly goes back to its full untouched state... I hope that's understandable? Dyslexia and a couple of glasses on Christmas Baileys may making me confusing aha
Disclaimer: do all this under water If it does this still, it'll be a combination of a slightly sticky piston and a shite bleed. Only proper way to ensure air is completely out is to bleed it under water with the master cylinder piston out. Its as if you are pre filling it under water first. Do this, then pop the piston back in. Then bath bleed it again. If its still spongy you've got a leak, simple as that
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No problem man, hope it helps you out.



Disclaimer: do all this under water If it does this still, it'll be a combination of a slightly sticky piston and a shite bleed. Only proper way to ensure air is completely out is to bleed it under water with the master cylinder piston out. Its as if you are pre filling it under water first. Do this, then pop the piston back in. Then bath bleed it again. If its still spongy you've got a leak, simple as that

the top up method i explained is a simple way off doing this without removing the brake and does the same thing..

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No problem man, hope it helps you out. the top up method i explained is a simple way off doing this without removing the brake and does the same thing..
Yeah i know dude, wasn't trying to undermine you or owt :), just in my experience, the only foolproof way of ensuring you get a perfect air free bleed in my experience is to do it this way. The gain of doing it like this far outweighs the loss of having to take a little more time setting your brake back up. This method has never failed me on any 04/05 model magura. Granted it is easier on an 05 though
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Yeah i know dude, wasn't trying to undermine you or owt :), just in my experience, the only foolproof way of ensuring you get a perfect air free bleed in my experience is to do it this way. The gain of doing it like this far outweighs the loss of having to take a little more time setting your brake back up. This method has never failed me on any 04/05 model magura. Granted it is easier on an 05 though

agree just if i can be done like this it would save some time, although if there going to remove there lever pistons then they may aswell bath bleed while there at it! the good thing about the top up method is you can do it out on a ride, and it can make a dull brake feel amazing, i found that if my pads wore down abit and i topped my brake up the tpa adjustment was less aswell.

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Give everything a properly good clean.
My brake did this about a year back.

Soaked my slaves in wd40 to lift all the crap off/out of them, allong with my lever body and piston too overnight.
Gave it all a good clean to remove any remaining shite off both, and then reassembled and degreased the external areas, but not the slaves pistons and master piston.


I use a light coating of lithium grease on the master piston just to ensure its leak free. It works. I salvaged a previously leaky TR lever unit using lithium grease to seal it and its been golden ever since. Makes the brake feel silly smooth and sweet too. Its also water resistant, and stops the piston swelling from water absorption, which prevents lazy brakes. I lube the slave pistons with a light oil such as gt85 following bleeding (bath bleed), and then assemble it all on the bike.

I get the brakes to feel just as I want them doing it this way, and Im very fussy about how my brake has to feel.

If its still spongy, theres air getting trapped somewhere.

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Have you considered it may be your frame flexing? when i had my speedrace i re-bled the rear brake when i got the bike everything felt sweet as a nut untill i squeezed really hard then i noticed my frame flexing loads, put a 2 bolt try-all booster on done the job ok i guess but still had slight frame flex that made the brake feel like it had a crap bleed. My inspired never had the problem but when i got my limey 320 intergrated brake booster, re-bled the brakes, 4 finger leaver, i then had sticky slaves :( i found removing the slave and using a cocktail stick to get al the grime out from the seal area and then wd-40 around the seal(wipe as much of it off) sorted the slaves and the slugish feeling brakes, bath bleed everything (sink will also do) make sure to keep everything under water untill both grub screws are fully in and everything should work well. IF not unfortunately you have a leak :( OR i dont know your brake set up but if you have a splitter be sure to bleed the brake as normal from one slave then when thats all done, put the grub back in the slave just bled, then bleed the other slave because without a crossover it wont properly bleed the other slave if that makes any sence? hahaa, In my head thats pretty much anything that could go wrong to cause a slugish feeling brake, let me know what happens as im keen to know the problem now haa hope anything has helped (Y)

Alex.

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Have you considered it may be your frame flexing? when i had my speedrace i re-bled the rear brake when i got the bike everything felt sweet as a nut untill i squeezed really hard then i noticed my frame flexing loads, put a 2 bolt try-all booster on done the job ok i guess but still had slight frame flex that made the brake feel like it had a crap bleed. My inspired never had the problem but when i got my limey 320 intergrated brake booster, re-bled the brakes, 4 finger leaver, i then had sticky slaves :( i found removing the slave and using a cocktail stick to get al the grime out from the seal area and then wd-40 around the seal(wipe as much of it off) sorted the slaves and the slugish feeling brakes, bath bleed everything (sink will also do) make sure to keep everything under water untill both grub screws are fully in and everything should work well. IF not unfortunately you have a leak :( OR i dont know your brake set up but if you have a splitter be sure to bleed the brake as normal from one slave then when thats all done, put the grub back in the slave just bled, then bleed the other slave because without a crossover it wont properly bleed the other slave if that makes any sence? hahaa, In my head thats pretty much anything that could go wrong to cause a slugish feeling brake, let me know what happens as im keen to know the problem now haa hope anything has helped (Y)

Alex.

i have a 2 bolt booster on at the mo, and the frame does flex, i think this is why because the bleed is insane, if anything its too good a bleed, but nothing is sticking, i may have to try a four bolt booster on it as the frame still flex's, i also could do with a master piston kit and spring, but tarty or trials addict dont sell them :(

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Thats probs it then pal, did the same on my speedrace, perfect bleed, too much power for the frame and then it will flex and give you a faulse feel of your brake, as you said it feels spongy, if you dont care about weight (most people on here do haa) get something like a 4 bolt adamant or if i remember the tensile 4 bolt boosters were insane!!

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The sure way to tell if theres no air in the system, is that the slaves pistons move as soon as the smallest amount of pressure it applied to the lever.

yeah they do, and both the same time too, i just think the brake is to poweful for the frame, going have to have a four bolt booster on

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