Greetings Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 After a few months of use, I find dismantling Echo freewheels becomes more and more difficult, up to the stage where it's nigh on impossible. This is my current setup: I use 2.5mm drills which break under torque. Since the margin of error is no more than 0.05mm, I have not yet managed to get all 4 bolts in the right place so I can only use 2 at a time (some freewheels only have 2 holes anyway). I'm wondering if there's something else I can use instead of drills? Or perhaps there's a completely different approach? No hammer and screwdriver please. I have a Park Tool SPA-3 freewheel tool but that's just useless for anything other than new freewheels. They have a bloody strong interface though, wish I could get something similar for my tool. Furthermore, could heating up an SL freewheel affect the properties of the titanium centre bit? TR freewheels are fine with heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Furthermore, could heating up an SL freewheel affect the properties of the titanium centre bit?Nah, no issues there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Nah, no issues there. How do you dismantle these freewheels? I've found some DIN915 bolts with class ~14 hardness, going to get some now: This is probably my best shot currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 How do you dismantle these freewheels? hammer and pin punch, bit destructive but does the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) hammer and pin punch, bit destructive but does the job Same here. But only after using the end of a tool which has 2 pointy ends to try and turn it not working. Edited July 5, 2013 by JMCD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Same, doesn't tend to make much / any mess.Your idea is really good though Alex, I'm tempted to try making something similar as hammering away never feels nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny00135 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 That's pretty similar to what I tried... I had a large steel metal plate (long and thin) with holes for drill bits and a hole to put the bolt through and used the long plate as leverage.. Snapped like 12 drill bits :/ I ended up buying a new one since it was on that tight and just wouldn't budge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Got those DIN915 bolts, will post an update when I get them installed. They're rated at class 14 roughly but then this tiny head needs to transfer around 1200N onto the freewheel each. I've got 2 freewheels currently which won't budge so this will be a good test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) So I got these bolts, result - 1 TR freewheel dismantled with ease, SL freewheel... nope. This method transfers a *LOT* of torque, it took a lot of strength to get these bolts broken, and even then the threads in the plate are fine, so it's a 30 second job to get them replaced. I'm wondering if using an impact wrench won't help. Will try shortly. Edit: bad idea, broke instantly and the tip of the bolt is now embedded in the freewheel Tightened from the other end: Edited July 5, 2013 by Greetings 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 Bummer! Shock is generally better for getting stuff like that loose, shame the grub screws weren't up to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I have a similar setup (knocked up at work) with two hard steel pins pressed into a backplate then a big bolt through the middle to hold it all together, works every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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