wholelottabonzo Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hi, Having been out the game for a while, my new bike has a different BB to what I was used to. It has what looks to be two external bearing cups which screw into the frame with a through axle? Anyways however it works, it looks as though the two cranks are joined to a seperate axle through the frame as opposed to the old sealed square taper jobbies. If I stand over the bike as if I'm in the riding position, there is a bit of play left to right as if i can move the axle back and fourth ~1 to 2 mm through the frame... Is this normal?? Doesn't feel great as when I'm riding and the load changes from side to side, it knocks. It's worth saying that I have checked and the cranks are tight onto the axle and the knocking isn't coming from there. I don't have the right tool to remove the bearing cups but I can get hold of one if I need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 What frame/bottom bracket is it? Sounds like you might just need a spacer inside one of the cups to take up the play. I know the Truvativ BB I have is the same style and you need to tighten the cranks up so they clamp it all together but not too tight so as to make the whole thing stiff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 If they're the newer-style Truvativ Holzfeller cranks, sometimes you just need to basically rag the shit out of the crank bolts. For some reason, they seem to have a really high recommended torque for the crank bolts in order to keep the BB tight, so it may be worth getting hold of a torque wrench and seeing what you're actually doing them up to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 What frame/bottom bracket is it? Sounds like you might just need a spacer inside one of the cups to take up the play. I know the Truvativ BB I have is the same style and you need to tighten the cranks up so they clamp it all together but not too tight so as to make the whole thing stiff! I had to do this on my Dr Jekyll frame, it needed two on the drive side and one on the none drive side. I was doing the crank bolts up until basically I had no muscle power left, which is bloody tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Yeah like Mark said, the first time I fitted my cranks I tightened the bolts up as much as I normally would and there was loads of play so ended up ringing tarty who told me to tighten them even more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wholelottabonzo Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Yeah I believe it is a Truvativ Howitzer with the Hussefelt trials cranks. Never been a fan of just doing stuff up tighter when it's already tight but I will give it a go... Any idea what the torque is supposed to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 According to Truvativ, 48-54N/m - a fair bit more than normal ISIS cranks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wholelottabonzo Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) Yeah just found that here: https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/BB-Howitzer-e-r0.pdf Will have a go up to 54N/m Is the size of my BB i.e. 73mm 83mm or 100mm just the width of the BB mounting on my frame? Cheeeeers Edited February 27, 2014 by wholelottabonzo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Yes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wholelottabonzo Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Cool, I'm doing this from work so I'm not actually near my bike! Going off that sram page, there should be 1 spacer on the drive side. Will check when I get home to see if it's on there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Due to clearance issues on some frames, you might sometimes find there's 2 on the drive-side between the cup and the frame (assuming that's the spacer you're referring to). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wholelottabonzo Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) Holy bananas that's tight! Drive side wasn't far off but the other side felt like I was stripping the threads until the torque wrench clicked! 54N/m was the magic number. Still a little play at 48N/m but it's gone now! Cheers boys! :bow: Edited February 27, 2014 by wholelottabonzo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Cool, glad it worked out for you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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