deadly venom Posted September 7, 2005 Report Share Posted September 7, 2005 (edited) In a previous thread I posted, someone mentioned that there had been research to see if flat style bulge bars produced ill effects on the hands and wrists. Did anything come of those experiments? I am looking into this type of bar or the Try All riser bar. If I go with the Flat bulge bar I don't want to end up with some kind of wrist damage. How strong are aluminium forks such as Echo, Zoo or BT? Do these types of forks have a decent life span? I am compiling a list of parts for my first trials bike. I am doing as much research as possible so I don't make the mistake of buying the wrong equipment. If any of you can give some suggestions on parts such as wheels, tires, hubs, brake pads and anything else I will appreciate it. Keep her steady, Deadly venom Edited September 7, 2005 by deadly venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIX Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Please use le search Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Bleech Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Bar wise - I would go with riser bars, quite a few people can't use the flat style because they are painful/uncomfortable. You might find flat bars fine or you might not, but go for some decent risers (onza, pazzaz, tryall, etc) and they won't be painful, unless you have really crap wrist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Ri,s you are wanting are Ronnie or an Echo ri, since there are at a decent width and are strong also D721 are good but thinner. Hub you want at least is a Hope XC/Mono enough engagement for you and are strong and Hope service are minto, or a DMR Revolver hub on a ACS Claws. Do a search on tyres there are loads of topics about them but most people use are Maxxis's :ermm: . Cranks go for Burns or Tensile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Thanks for the info! On the subject of hubs, what about the Try-all fixed hub and the Echo fixed hub? Are these quality hubs as well? Stay on to wheels, Deadly venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Yer if you want to run a freewheel on front. Since they are fixed hubs but going FFW do have its benefits like more clearance. If you dogo for FFW get either a ACS Claws or a ENO freewheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 TomN, I have read that White Industries ENO freewheel was very good. If I go with a front freewheel(which I probably will) I will go with the ENO. On the subject of cranks. You mentioned the Middleburn and Tensile cranks. What about the Echo, BT, Zoo and Try All cranks? Are these quality cranks? By the way, to make things clearer I am researching parts for a 26'' bike. Ride on, Deadly Venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Yer them are also good cranks but most people use Middleburns then I say Tensiles 2nd. If you do got for FFW I'd go for Tensiles since they are thread when the Burns aren't also they are very stif, bit stiffer then Burns IMO and have replaceable pedal threads and are cheaper then Burns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 TomN, I appreciate the info. I it is sometimes hard to find trials information in the U.S. Ride that bike, Deadly Venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pork Pie Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 In a previous thread I posted, someone mentioned that there had been research to see if flat style bulge bars produced ill effects on the hands and wrists. Did anything come of those experiments? I am looking into this type of bar or the Try All riser bar. If I go with the Flat bulge bar I don't want to end up with some kind of wrist damage. How strong are aluminium forks such as Echo, Zoo or BT? Do these types of forks have a decent life span? I am compiling a list of parts for my first trials bike. I am doing as much research as possible so I don't make the mistake of buying the wrong equipment. If any of you can give some suggestions on parts such as wheels, tires, hubs, brake pads and anything else I will appreciate it. Keep her steady, Deadly venom ← The new Onza 30" Carbon bars feel sweet. You'll need a bulge type stem also, which'll have to be fairly high in rise (or a mod stem) if you're still gonna be trying a high bb frame. The Echo Urban forks are pretty cool. Last along time for most people. They've had problems with the disk mount snapping but it's been sorted now by whacking a 9mm thick mount on them. They also flex a bit which really helps for some moves. The new BT forks are meant to be alright too. As are the Smart guys from Onza which are becoming quite popular recently. As it's a stock you're going for, I'd reccomend not using FFW and going for a hope Mono rear hub, or if you can afford it, a Chris King Classic. Seem to be more reliable than FFW systems. Maxxis 40a or 42a tyres are pretty good. Really good puncture protection but don't last a super long time. Minion and High Roller Dual Ply's are what you should be looking out for. Also, Kenda tyres are meant to be good, and some people find Michelin Comp 24's good aswell. Brake pads, well there's load to choose from. Maybe if you wait a while though Heatsink and Tartybikes might have come up with something cool as they're researching at the moment. But there's still a shit load of pads that aren't heatsink. If you're gonna be running a ground rim, go for pads like Koxx Bloxx or Plazmatic CRM's. If you're running smooth rims, maybe look into Zoo's or something in a softer compound. Ground rim's will let you get away with riding in the rain with a decent setup, smooth rims and rain don't mix too well. But I guess it all depends on what you're gonna be riding in mainly. Grinding can be a bit of a hassle and leaving your rim smooth is fine if you're gonna only be riding in the dry and have decent pads, but yeah, if you're even gonna go close to any water, I'd reccomend a grind. Erm, yeah. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Dave, Alright, now that's what I call info!!!! I thought ENO freewheels were good freewheels. The price of the Chris King hubs is what made me search for an alternative. I thought the hope hub was a disk only hub, but I guess not. I will have to keep all three hubs in mind when I go to buy the hubs. I was hoping to get away with not grinding the rims but it looks like I have to. I plan to do natural trials only. There are some great places to ride around here and there is water some were in every riding spot. I have noticed that the most used tire is the Maxxis High roller tire. However, I have discovered over the years that it is best find out if there are other choices. I had to ask about the forks. I am coming from BMX and I am not use to aluminium forks. I keep thinking they will break the first day out. :) I still don't know which stem to get. I have been looking at the BT Raven 6.0 1100 or the new Zoo Pitbull 1080. I will probably go with the Raven 6.0. It just looks so attractive. Roll on, Deadly Venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CalopS Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 I thought the hope hub was a disk only hub It might be because its 2:22 in the mouring but theres no such thing as a disk only hub is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caleb Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 Lmao nah but let him off as hes only starting :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 When I read the information on the Hope XC hub it said, "Hope XC disk hub." I thought it was designed specifically for Cross country riders who are using disk brakes in the rear. I have no prior experience with mountain bike equipment. As I am coming from BMX a lot of the equipment is new to me. Keep riding, deadly venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urpedigreechumdog Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 He's only trying to say that no hub is disk only, because if you lace it up to a rim meant for the use of rim brakes then it wouldn't be disk only. As i see it you should run a set up similar to this.... Riser bulge bars Oversize stem Lock on grips Front Magura HS33 with a ground front rim / or a front disk depending on your budget. Rear magura with a ground rim good pads and a good booster. Any forks really as long as they do not have a bonded steerer, bonded steerers = evil Hope xc hubs, with a single speed kit and 18t cog Onza ronnie rear rim / onza hog front rim or a front mavic D521 Maxxis high roller or minion tyres Thick Tubes!!!!! Tensile 170mm cranks with the screw on bash + 22t chainring Any ISIS BB over £30 Platform pedals, not caged ones An FSA pig pro DH headset or a hope headset A KMC KOOL Chain, the fatter version And whatever frame you fancy (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 Urpedigreechumdog, That really clears things up about the hub. The setup you recommending, it is for natural, urban or both? The reason why I am asking is because I am going to do natural trials only. Ride on, Deadly Venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janson Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 that setup works for both natural and street. things like lighter tube on the front, as well as a lighter front tyre might help a bit, but many people (incl. me) prefer the increased grip/pinch protection of the thicker tyres and tubes. running super light tubes with maxxis tyres works perfectly fine if you want to save a few grams, as the tyres are pretty bulky. for natural, i'd recommend running a front disc. makes natural sooo much easier if you have a good front brake that works in any condition. i use the avid bb7 mechanical disc brake, and am very happy with the performance of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urpedigreechumdog Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 If you bought a longish frame like the new pitbull (anything 1060mm+ wheelbase), and got a similar set-up to the one i mentioned above (ground rim on the rear is a must for natural) then it's be perfect. I'd also like to point out that in my opinion a front disc is well worth it. And pad wise, for you having a ground rim on the rear,and doing natural, it's probably be best for you to buy some koxx bloxx brown pads, these are good for grinds and last a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 I came from bmx originally (i had a few years off though) and was quite frightened of stuff snapping - Aluminium is proper girly metal after all. The thing is you just dont smack your bike into stuff as hard as you do when riding bmx, you aren't going so fast for one thing and everything is a lot less burly so less major bits will snap off. I havent bust anything important yet (only really been riding proper about 6 months though) I'd recommend a streety frame rather than a fancy comp oriented frame to start with - unless you like buying new frames a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 Poopipe, Urpedigreechumdog, janson Would the Raven 6.0 1100 and the Pitbull 1080 be considered Competition only frames? I will get the Koxx bloxx or Plazmatic pads as they are highly recommended. The Avid Mechanical disk brake, the Magura louise or maybe the Avid juicy 5 will be my choice for front brake. The Hope disk is really expensive. As for tires, it is obvious that the Maxxis is the tire of choice. So I will get those. Thick tubes is really the way to go anyway. I do mostly flatland at this point and I run heavy duty tubes in my tires. Ride on, Deadly Venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave85 Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 If by competition only you mean weak, then no, theyre both strong frames (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urpedigreechumdog Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 I wouldn't say competition only but they might be quite long if you are a beginner, maybe you'd like to look at a koxx levelboss 1040 or 1065? Deffinately get the Avid BB7 With some EBC red pads to go with it too (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadly venom Posted September 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 (edited) Dave85, Urpedigreechumdog, It is difficult to tell what frames are for street and what frames are for competition. For example, I read that the Koxx XTP is a competition frame but yet I have seen video footage of people riding the XTP on the street. LIke I said, it's hard to tell. Keep riding, Deadly venom Edited September 9, 2005 by deadly venom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urpedigreechumdog Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 It's all mixed up these days anyway, people will ride anything anywhere, for instance i ride a t-rex mainly on the street but it's meant for natural.... Street frames are usually recognised as the traditional double diamond style. Leesons, Curtis', Pashleys and Revells are all street frames also the orange zero is a street frame. Street frames are usually the ones with a proper seat and a short wheel base. Competition/Natural frames are the more Long/Low and Silver style frames like the T-rex, XTP, Levelboss, Toxsin, Echo Control etc etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 you should maybe have a look at a complete bike, onza do some cool ones and they're great for begginers >_< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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