Disc Pads

[random]

So we've ether tried it or others own home amde pads. Were getting some amazing results now but has anyone tried it with a disc yet?

I been toying with the idea and a solid rota. Why cos the material would be soft and would rip etc when it hits the disc cos of the cut outs or holes.

So has anyone tried it?? i gotta grind off the current meat on my old set of pads but i think it'll work.

Pete

[CurtisRider]

yip ive tried it on my deore disc, had some old rimjam red rubber spare so cut it out and stuck it on-lets just say it was inf**kingcredible.........trouble is the pads werent very flat so i kinda got a blow torch on them to see if theyd melt flat a little ^_^ lol the result was a gooey mess

im gonna try it again, but i need to find a more suitable glue as it is quite likely superglue/araldite isnt strong enuff for those kinda forces as there is less surface area of glue than in the maggy/v brake pads ive made

i used an avid disc rotor, id recomend a solid rotor if you are gonna use very soft material like i did

be very careful though, i really wouldnt recomend relying on your first attempts to hold you with trials/very fast useage-cos if it comes off.............. <_<

[nmt_oli]

Hmm, remember the forces at the center of the wheel are that much geater due to the leverage, so your going to need to stick em on REALLY good, notice how standard pads actually go through the backing slightly to help anchor them.

Soft material is likely to just get ripped to shreds, even on a solid disk, because of the amount of pressure there under. The holes in disks are there for a reason too, makes then lighter, helps disperse heat, and hleps remove water from the braking surface. If you then go and make an ally rotor to save wieght as your pads will be compatable with ally, then plazmatic aleady tried, and it didnt really kick off, the pads wore out too fast, the rotors bent very easily, and it was expensive.

You needt to get the material totally parrallel to the pad backing as well, harder on the smaller scale of disk brakes, and more critical than maggies- smaller tolerances, due to smaller dimensions.

Brakes using soft pads would be very good for bite, but not for modulation, the hard pads now are what gives disk brakes such superb modulation. they dont deform, and they don't grab, they only lock because of the pressure, so you can control the pressure applied very preciely to get the friction you want between the disk and the pads. That means these would have a purely trials application, and wouldn be very good on the front. If put on the back, if they were tempremental then it will be anoying, plus you get the normal problems of disk rotors to bend, and disk tabs to snap ect.

[random]

Duno if you know or forget but Dady owns EBC!!!

I know exactly what i need and how to do it as i been from the holland plant where all the backings are made to the USA Ca plant where the material is fitted on then ground down and then to the UK plant's where there all sprayed, stamped and boxed then sent world wide.

I have a material in mind, it's hard as hel lbut grippy. was gonan try it on a smothe disc and then try it with a grind.

Well i stil lhold the fastset speed recold for my local rocket club so doing mach 1.6 on my carbonfiber rocket i think i know exactly what resin to use as thats whats used on disc pads anyways.

Umm rim jam stuff sound worth a play. you got any left??

Pete

[nmt_oli]

If you have access to all that stuff, then great, but there not exactly 'home made' pads then are they? more custom compound pads.

[random]

Didn't say i had acess that i just been round and seen how the real deal is done.

Just waiting for me material to come now

[Mark W]

Thing is is that disc pads usually tend to be OK anyway? I've got an Avid BB7 w/XTR lever and a 203mm rotor and it's perfect? Standard Avid rotor and pads, too. Plus I know I can just get some of "Daddy's" reds and it'll be fine anyway.

However, with Hs33's, you've got a variety of rim types, rim surfaces (ground/clean/tar'd), and so on, so it's harder to get an 'ideal' compound that'll cover such a range of surfaces. Discs however tend to just have relatively smooth braking surfaces, and they don't have to be specially made to take into account wet weather performance simply because it's not easy to get them soaked (as easily as a rim, anyway), and the shape of the rotor channels water from the pads easily enough.