CurtisRider

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CurtisRider last won the day on August 21 2018

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About CurtisRider

  • Rank
    Thats Enough Now Tart

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    Male

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  • County (UK Only)
    Unspecified
  • Real Name
    Paul Oliver
  • Bike Ridden
    Multiple
  • Country
    Afghanistan

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  1. I managed to get this mint condition Giant frame and carbon forks for £40 and swapped all the bits off my Raleigh Airlight along with a few new bits (105 braze on front mech, Continental front tyre as my other one was too tall and fouled the brake and an Ultegra rear brake that has just arrived). It rides so nicely, I'm very happy with it considering it has cost me a smidge over £100 to build overall and pretty much everything is new/like new Obviously not bike porn but more than adequate for the occasional rider!
  2. I've been looking after a 05 1.9 TDI Touran for a friend whilst he travels and I've been pleasantly surprised by how capable, spacious and even though its only 100bhp it doesn't actually feel as horrendously slow as i had expected. It has done 189k and apparently has wanted for very little for the 130k he has put on it. Well worth considering and pretty cheap. Unrelated news, we got a MK6 Golf GT 2.0 TDI the other day to replace the Astra H, I know it's just a Golf but I'm always impressed by these old things as they seem to age far more gracefully than most other brands. We went with an automatic this time and it's so silky, for an everyday car for A to B I don't get why people bother with manual boxes anymore.
  3. I've got the Dewalt one (more powerful than yours I believe unless Milwaukee have upped the spec since I last looked) and its sooooo good, they are such handy machines! I use it for driving 180mm coach screws into oak without predrilling with no issues as well as on the farm equipment. I'm keen on having some of the smaller ones so it looks like I might have to try the Milwaukee M12 stuff
  4. Missed that advise and got it coated... No sign of shrinking, a 4 bottle pack just about did the 10x5 foot trailer inside and out! Fingers crossed tomorrow it will still look the same...
  5. I've ordered some, I didn't want to spend any more on it but I also want the sodding thing out of my workshop! Fingers crossed it works! Yesterday I tried painting red oxide on the chassis over the top of the stonechip and it didn't react at all, I don't get it?! Anyway I'm just going to blast a load of waxoyl style stuff underneath to ensure water can't get in too easily and that'll have to do, it'll only get used on local roads and most of those don't get any salt during the winter anyway!
  6. Cheers Tom, I left the red oxide a day which is what I would usually do and never had issues before. The previous paint is of unknown type, likely cheap and cheerful (or not in my case) though. I was looking at the Raptor paint, the trouble is I'm not ready for 2k paint yet as I don't have the mask as per your advice and I'm not in the position to buy one because of this bloody trailer! I assume there isn't a 1k equivalent?
  7. Not quite car related but it's for my car and it's paint, I know @Tom Booth will probably have the answer! I bought an Ifor Williams trailer recently, it's galvanised but has been painted in the past as some areas have become worn and rusted. I stripped it down, sanded back the paint to key, treated any rust with the Bilt Hamber stuff and primed treated areas with red oxide. Now because the thing is a bit beaten I thought covering it in Tetraseal stone chip would be a good idea as it'll resist wear and tear and when applied with a Schutz gun it leaves a textured finish to hide any sins. Unfortunately the stuff has reacted (crazing as it's shrunk) just about everywhere and I can't understand why as I've had success with it before. I feared that I had maybe put it on too thick, but when I experimented in other areas it didn't make a difference, I'm assuming it's too high a solvent content that is causing this. I really can't be arsed with stripping it all back again, I haven't got time and need it operational within a week. Is there any other type of paint i can slap over that won't react? Do I resort to using Hammerite as that seems to stick to just about anything? Do I need to give the stone chip some more time to fully harden before I can coat over?
  8. Fair enough, I guess you probably don't have massive bits of steel handy either like I was fortunate enough to, I need to get round to shoving in a massive hydraulic ram to up the oomph a bit more
  9. Pfft, should of made your own out of scrap
  10. Dick move, I'd be steering well clear of him.
  11. Cheers chaps, I'll just give them a quick spray and put some dirt jumper stickers on and hope they sell! I sold some wobbly worn out base level Pikes for £50 recently, the amount of people that wanted them was ridiculous!
  12. Are you still swapping it for that other mahoosive tank? I got myself a MOMO Corse steering wheel and boss for the Porsche as well as a stack of other parts are accumulating in a heap ready for when I make a space in my workshop for the Porsche to live. I've been a bit switched off from cars for the past few years but suddenly I feel pretty excited to get stuck in and crack on, that will probably last all of 5 minutes once it's in pieces and I realise how shit it is again
  13. My concern is I don't massively want it to break mid turn! Did your budget one seem as well made as the branded ones Adam?
  14. I've just bought a Momo steering wheel for my 924, it came with an MX5 MK2.5 boss which unfortunately isn't suitable so I need a correct one. I've seen a variety available online, from branded to suspiciously cheap. Are there any particular ones to go for/avoid?
  15. 2.5kg iirc for the steel stanchion versions, the alloy versions were much lighter though Any idea of value of these? The prices seem to vary wildy and i know longer travel straight steerer 1 1/8th forks are sought after as they are thin on the ground. I was thinking £80-100 with a respray, fresh decals, seals and oil