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Mod Trouble.


munkee

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Copied from angry thread cos i need ideas now:

I have a dillema. New frame, echo lite and my gay gearing do not go together with the chain. When chain is tight the rear wheel is nearly out the dropouts (i dont really mind just tighten it up loads more) BUT.. the brake cylinders cant move down on the mounts far enough to hit the rim.

If i push the wheel all the way in, the chain requires a half link.. since if i take a link out its too tight to put back together again.

So heres my possible solutions:

A. Go to halfords tmrw morning and try and source a half link. Remember this is halfords so chances of this happeneing are 0

B. File down the holes in the brake mounts so that they can slide down a little further (no idea if this will work yet)

C. Grind the horizontal drop outs 5mm (maybe not even that) deeper on both sides so that i can then take a link out and everything will be dandy + go buy a half link when i can be arsed.

D. Pray somone brings a half link to the ride in portsmouth tmrw.. (chances also too slim)

Opinions people?

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Make a little chain tensioner like Will has.

It looks fun to make + easy enough to do in your kitchen :P

Yer try and make something like the leeson mod tenntioners.

I rember a mate making one out of a pice of sheat steel, bascily cut out a rectange and stuck a jock wheele on worked for a good few weeks if ime right.

Orrr if worse comes to worse could buy a new chain?

Edited by Swize
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I sort of have the same problem...ish.

I just angle the brake pads right down onto the rim, probably no good in you case though.

Wouldn't it be good if someone made a mod tensioner, that came with metal slot to slot into your dropouts so the wheel wouldn't move about. I'd buy.

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it comes out too loose :( i think in the end its gonna come down to slightly looser chain and the modified mounts.. i pointed the pads down and only abour 3/4 touch.. im not rinsing new pads on that..

Edited by Spacemunkee
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it's called "Shadow Conspiracy Interlock Chain"

And its shit :P

I had one, i snapped 8 links clean in half. All i can suggest is ask around for people going on the round if they have one, if not, don't f**k it up even more and just leave it.

Its only 1 ride....

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I sort of have the same problem...ish.

I just angle the brake pads right down onto the rim, probably no good in you case though.

Wouldn't it be good if someone made a mod tensioner, that came with metal slot to slot into your dropouts so the wheel wouldn't move about. I'd buy.

um you not seen my toxsin or am I wrong about their idea of chain tension :P

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If you imagine a bag of dogwank, you have effectively imagined the Shadow Interlock chain pictured up there. However, the Interlock V2 IS a load better. I got 3 links from one to use as a half-link on my BMX, and they seem to be pretty decent in all honesty. Still not 100% about it, but y'know, it's a chain, so I never will be...

Misaligned brake mounts compared to stay length and shit like that used to be common on Onzas, but then they got their shit together and for the most part sorted it out. It appears Echo haven't with the Lite, so I guess it's just bad luck, basically. I don't really know how much material you could file out of the mounts, 'cos there's only like 3-4mm of material top 'n' bottom anyway (plus you've gotta think about your brake piston grounding on the 4-bolt mounts on the frame anyway if you have to move it too far?).

Best bet would just be to try and source a half-link or a spare bit of Shadow Interlock from someone tomorrow, if you can. There are a few knock-off Interlock V2 chains out now (a YBN model, a Mission model, etc.), so you *may* find one in Halfords with someone else's name on it, but if not, they may happen to have a half-link lying around somewhere. I've seen one in a Bikehut before anyway, so it just depends how tech your Halfords store is with their bike gear.

Good luck with it anyway (Y)

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19 13

I went riding today, managed to grind, drill and file the 4 bolt mounts so the cylinders could move down lower. Then during ride we bodged some spacers ( the silver rings off some v8's) so that the chain tugs would pull the wheel in to tension. Only prob at the mo is my chainline is too straight and chain is hitting the bash plate. So some more grinding will be happening soon. Ordered a half link chain.. so i never ever run out of half links ever again.

Edited by Spacemunkee
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19 13

I went riding today, managed to grind, drill and file the 4 bolt mounts so the cylinders could move down lower. Then during ride we bodged some spacers ( the silver rings off some v8's) so that the chain tugs would pull the wheel in to tension. Only prob at the mo is my chainline is too straight and chain is hitting the bash plate. So some more grinding will be happening soon. Ordered a half link chain.. so i never ever run out of half links ever again.

chainging your gearing from 19-13 to 18-12 will solve the problem.

doing bodges with rear wheel and rear brake is never a good idea imo...

will it be expensie to change to 18-12? 15 quid for rear cog and 15 for an acs freewheel? aint too bad..providing you like that set-up.

Will

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chainging your gearing from 19-13 to 18-12 will solve the problem.

doing bodges with rear wheel and rear brake is never a good idea imo...

will it be expensie to change to 18-12? 15 quid for rear cog and 15 for an acs freewheel? aint too bad..providing you like that set-up.

Will

Profile and front surley cog.. just bought it too. To be honest the job ive done witht he brake mounts has not comprimised the safety one bit a bolts a bolt and braking forse will be mostly outwards. It didnt cause a problem all day so im happy at the mo, the proper mounts will go on when the half link arrives

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[attachmentid=3872]

Thats the when i moved the whole wheel back and pushed the mounts in to the available space hardly needed to move at all just a bolt thickness, had plenty of room left over too as you can see. Great bodge in my opinion and gave me more than enough room :)

post-710-1145217044_thumb.jpg

Edited by Spacemunkee
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