Jamie_Neal

Awesome set of photos and this looks like trouble... http://www.flickr.com/photos/kentsuda/3338...57614682581049/

How does that bash and cog work on the middleburns? Nice looking bike as well.

Might get away with the 122mm one or some really strong superglue. Best option would be a new frame.

Is it the place at BA4 6QF? If so I should hopefully be there with a few others.

203 is good for stopping me - 14 stone.

Looks like it should work but they do do Avid ones - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13721

I think it looks like a good idea in terms of stiffness but how does it work (not work) and with what hub? Where, I can't see any. Anyway, I like the sound of the long one. Bit too pricey at the moment though. Not 100% sold on the tensioner either, I reckon I'd still squash it.

Nice vid especially you hugging the rail. The only thing is, it makes Porthcawl look dry and warm, if only it had been. Ben's on a Zhi at the moment and is riding rather well (hope you got some of the gaps down to front Matt).

What is going on with the top of that headset? Looks like a bit of another headset with King cups.

Congrats, should be good seeing you on an onza. Shame about leaving Ashton. You'll have to give that nice white Zhi to Dave as his is looking a bit tatty. And me if I can get some time away.

Fine as long as you're not the one over taking the car as you'd be dark until the lights hit you. Looks cool though.

Fair play, awesome riding. Liked the sidehop to front wheel and the guy balancing his bike in the bin - the rest was pretty good as well.

Once you've got the stuck bit out, I can recommend getting a bottle cage bolt (or similar) and cutting a groove in the top of it and using that - I've used one for about 4 years without a problem.

Usually but a week of not riding also helps occasionally, also gives more of an urge to ride as well not to mention the recovery. I found that warming up helps loads as does warming down - doesn't need to be much. Rides usually start with small stuff anyway which gives you time to warm up, I don't know may people who ride their best when they first get out. Stretching my calves and legs helps my lower back loads otherwise I'm useless and really stiff.

'One of three prototype "woods bikes" made by Grove. Only one sold to the public. This bike was designed to push the boundaries of frame design. The bottom bracket height is 16", 15.25" seat stays, BB shell width of 80mm, rear hub 160mm and rear facing "drop-outs" in the rear.' BB rise before it became popular (2nd bike down). And a decently spaced rear wheel and bb.

Not just limited to Tuk but a poll of all trials retailers voting on which one used and how quickly the order was processed - the price of postage and stuff can be personal views but if the order took 3 days from the time of placing the order and there were no problems then tick that. Then you'd get an idea of how many people use which retailer and if there were any problems - delays, wrong items etc. Set it up like a customer feedback form. Just an idea as I've had no dealings with Tuk.

Its just the same.

Zhi forks, especially the steel steered ones which I have, seem to be a bit longer - not sure of the exact length though. They've raised my bb by 5mm compared to echo controls.

Usually you can take the cassette apart and just use the cogs you want with the spacers you need. The only thing is, 9spd casstte and chain will give you 6 gears on a pro II T but if you want a stronger chain (eg 8spd Kool) you'd only fit 5 cogs on as you can't really fit 6 8spd spacered cogs on without it getting very close to the frame. I just about managed it on my control but it was tight. Hope that made sense.

Porthcawl would be good as the one at Merthyr couldn't go ahead this year. (Would cut down on the travelling considerably as well)

Thanks for sticking it on trials tube (lunch time watch). No worse than you! (I'm kidding) Exactly what I thought - dancing along the edge of a trailer, dodgy!

I've often found that the chain can be perfectly in line but when pressure is applied to it, it pulls one way (usually towards the spokes) so I'be found that the rear cog needs to be slightly closer to the spokes than dead in line. However, if the cog is in the same place as the 17th one, follow the advice below.

Picture would help or possibly try your local bike shop. I know that the C2 (if your brake is that old) needed to be bled under pressure and required a couple of extra bits and bobs to do it.

Shorten your rear hose?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Specialized-P1-jump-...A1%7C240%3A1318 Its not mine but thought it may be of use to someone