Jamie_Neal

They are good hubs with 36 engagement points and three pawls. The only issue I found was as they have more engagement points on the ratchet ring, they wore out/skipped after about 8 months. Pro IIs are seem to be more reliable as they only have 24 engagement points on the ratchet but 2 sets of offset pawls giving 48 engagement points in total. Also, being bolted on, no issues with braking QRs when you land on the dropout. If you do a lot of riding, especially gaps etc that put more strain on the hub, go for the pro II as it should last a lot longer. If you're just starting out/don't go big, a BULB will be up to the job.

You know what I've got now but when I used to run gears, I had two roadie inline cable adjusters which gave enough variation to run three gears. Also, just had an idea for what I'm currently using and a possible way to run gears although it wiuld have to be manually changed. Don't worry, I didn't click anything on the poll.

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.j...486&eid=164 Been around for a couple of years - even comes with specialized branded tyres!

Same as the Specialized ones only £20 more. Looks cool though.

Less likely to land on it even if you side hp to the right as you'd hit the drop out first. The frame isn't as long as his proto was as this has a slightly slacker head angle but its still long. Felt very similar to my 04 long Control. Feels lovely to ride especially now Tim has some decent parts on it (well he did last time I saw him but he's probably broken them now).

I've found my 07 A1 easier to bunny hop/get on the rear wheel than my 04 control - personally, I think it is down to the slightly shorter chain stays (380 instead of 385). Try a higher (not shorter) stem. I've got a trial tech stem and pretty flat bars which are similar to zoos etc and I can still bunny hop it about 44" on a good day. (I am 6'4" - may make a difference).

Is this a stuble hint that I'm not riding enough? Not hibernating, just decorating.

Wales isn't soo bad (coming from an english man living in wales) although thats probably cos I don't care about rugby (or football). Quite like the 1st flag as a change. And just to be picky, its the Union Flag.

Ride to the levels of grip, its more about technique. I've seen people do things in the wet I wouldn't do in the dry.

Ask Dave Kerr - think he got up to 25mm.

Nice line although bunny onto the flat rock or if the kicker was a foot closer to the rock he'd have probably got the stroke in. A couple of times it looks like he's coming down before it. Not that I'd stand a chance.

Cut the MBK up into tiny peices, would that save on postage. Sorry for the unhelpful idea.

Adamant 07 - 68*118 - Middleburn 170s with Cloud 9 bash. Pretty close fit. Control 04 - Shimano Saints with Blackspire bash guards.

The rules look good although I think I'll be doing black as I'm not fit/good enough for the UCI rules yet. Might have to give it a go though. Good to see you don't get points for your foot crossing the centre line if your other foot is still on the pedal - makes sense. Hopefully get to a few next year. One in Wales maybe? Please.

If you need help for comps, what hope is there for the rest of us.........

Dave Hemming. Used to go to the Malvern Classic, was great watching the Marti/yns and the downhilling with Warner and Peat and that lot. Even saw a demo by Hans Rey which was pretty impressive.

I might have to give it a go if you can get that height. Can get around 36" normally so if you take the wheel out you should gain 12" but 50" is pushing it a bit.

Having rebuilt one of my friends 07 pro 2s the other week, the engagement didnt sound anywhere near as positive as mine which is also an 07 but about 6 months old. On his it sounded like one pawl was engaging slightly before the other so whether the opposing pawls are not exactly opposite and that is what is causing the problems as it is would probably cause extra stress or twisting - small I know but it may be a factor.

I think the issue of tensioning the belt may be a sticking point as I'm not sure how the hub bearings/freehub would like it. It may be better if a freewheel system was used and then the hub would just have to withstand the tension of the belt.

Any chance of it on trials tube?

I'd be a bit sceptical about this as well. Its bad enough if you get an overly tight chain. Also, if you feel like a change of ratios, you can't just add a couple of links. However, I think it would be interesting to give one a go although i don't fancy a dropped stay bike (like Onza) or cutting a slit in my frame. Although the method they've used looks ok and the amount of frames about nowadays with the rear dropouts bolted on/adjustable by bolts I would think that it wouldn't bee too hard to get something to work.

Michelin are still pretty good and comparable to Maxxis but I don't think they are as sticky and may be a bit heavier. Personally, Maxxis. At the moment, I'm liking the Hansventure on the back and will be sad when it wears out as it seems spot on. 2.35 single ply Minion on the front.

Although Hope started off as xc/dh hubs and have only recently done trials hubs. I still much prefer the design of the older hope hubs with 3 pawls rather than using pairs of pawls as I think it would put much less stress on the hub shell (like why the '06 Pro II trials ones snapped along the shell). Doesn't the Pro II trials run on 2 sets of off set pawls on a 24th ratchet ring. You'd need a 48th rachet ring or 4 sets of pawls to get 98 engagements. Anyway, the hub, if its that light (or anywhere near a king) with that many engagement points, I can't see them lasting especially with QR axles. Something will go bang or snap. Interesting to see if it does work though, give one to Tim Steadman and if it lasts 6 months with him, I'll have one.