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dave85

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Posts posted by dave85

  1. BMW is a bad example, you could print those initials on bog roll and flog it for 20 quid a sheet. Labour might be 150 quid an hour in one of their garages, but the mechanics are on a tenth of that, hence why I see it as pretty shoddy.

    What I mean to say is, can you justify with clear conscience charging a tenner for a few minutes work, with bugger all wear on the tools, not a lot to go wrong and no consumable items bar the grease?

  2. As skilled as repairing bikes is, in the grand scheme of things it's little more than bolting stuff together. I know there are overheads and expenses to cover, but it's hardly surprising that bike shops get a slagging when they suggest a tenner for five minutes work.

  3. http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.as...&item=TAP-6

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.as...mp;item=TAP%2D3

    so im guessing 9/16 20tpi, drive side ir normal right hand thread yes?

    id image so anyway due to pedalling tightening the f**kers up.

    that took me less than a minute to find this morning harry, damn im good!

    and ur engineers were shit, 9/16 is like the 13mm of today, every old brit thing was 9/16, but the thread is normally 12 - 18 tpi so im gonna have fun with some engineers l8r "20 tpi doesnt exist" "yes it does yes it does yes it does!!!!"

    British Standard Cycle, 60 degree included angle if you want to go to the merchants armed with all the info. Drive side is a RH thread yes.

  4. Use anytime of greece/lube

    you can never have to litle or too much lube!

    That's bollocks on all counts. Too much will choke it, as will too heavy. Too little will do f**k all, as will too light. Profiles run dry from the factory (or did last time I saw a new one), a little light oil will work well, 3in1, finishline wet etc. (dry lubes arent really what you want, they just dont do the job)

  5. What ARE you on about?

    A CNC machine will kick out whatever you put into it, again and again to whatever precision the machine will go to (often as accurately as 0.0001" or more)

    That's repeatability, not precision, they can be uniformly crap. Precision is expensive, and difficult to achieve at speed. Look at some of the older echo control boosters and you'll see where the cutter was deflecting because it was being pushed too hard.

  6. You need to soften the blade really. Get it good and hot (i.e. red) in a blowtorch at the place you want to drill, try to keep the heated area as small as possible cos it doesnt spring as well once softened. Then let it cool slowly, put it down on a brick in some still air (garage shed etc).

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