Alex Dark

So true.... Only because they're cheap I reckons. I reckon the majority of people run FFW now anyway

All good points

Desperately need the size of the aluminium washer thing off an HD bolt......need the diameter. Cheers

260gr i think... 740mm width, 10* upsweep, 10* backsweep, 31.8mm clamp.

Either will do. I ran me t-poop with 170's with no issues whatsoever....loads of people do

Big herne bay ride blatantly ( as ive just got told thats the best place to ride around these here parts... )

come ride with the plymouth lot

Yeh the SD7 is VERY good lever....only changed mine as I snapped it in a bail Chainreactioncycles do them pretty cheaply I believe

Weather looks nice here 40mins away to the south.... Hm, according to XC weather it may rain at about 4 Weather from BBC looks poo....rain at 9, 12 then 6. Still going though

King Hubs Pro series Rims Nuc stem Viz pro 720 bars King headset Middleburns Super pro ti bash Dual RB designs levers Coust CNC'd pads F +R Try-all front tyre, Der Kaiser rear. Wellgo MG-1 Ti kit Reset Ti BB Triton Deema frame / Koxx Orange Sky/ Coustellier V2 Got 80% of that.... Needs new BB, Burns and rear rim

To be honest, anything more than 160 is overkill on a mod if you run a Magura Louise, BB7, hope mono trial or BB5....they're just powerful enough with the wee discs. A larger disc can give you more bite though.

If youre really syuck, I have one I could post

Very good mate, impressed Music was rather nice too

Wait until you are validated dude....

Shimano XTR lever is brilliant...along with some Odyseey linear slic kable ( or similar )

Fair enough, better to ask then to find out the hard way

It's called a Pidgeon, wheelswap, deadweight and a fair few other retarded names. I've been riding for 3 years now and cant do it over a foot So i'm not the best person to ask. Here's a link off trashzen to the move I *think* you means.... Wheelswap

Nooo... first try whacking an imperial size allen key in, thats slightly bigger than the original size. If not, then try bashing in a Torx bit. One of they ^^

Yerp....M3 I thinks?

So true.....build one...if you don't like it, build the other. I'd personally go for the Ashton every time

He means angle-grinder discs... Well, a fair few, but as the diameter decreases, so does the area of the disc in contact with the rim when you grind. If its really wee you have to make more passes. Also depends if you sharpen it, what rim you use, and how harshly you grind. I'd say around 25 medium grinds maybe? My metal cutting last around 20

No problem

Sik sounds a-ok...hopefully see you there Ryan

Hmm, I know deore hubs use a 10mm allen key to undo the freehub? Edit: Quick google Search reveals this...may be of some use More Information Halo Spin Doc. Freehub – Halo Spin Doctor Freehub Replacement Guide- · First step is to remove the push fit cones from the axle, just pull off and put to one side. · On a hard surface, firmly tap the axle in a straight down motion to push out one of the bearings from the hub shell. I normally tap from the disc side first to remove the more difficult freehub bearing first. · Turn hub over and repeat to extract bearing on other side of hub. · With the hub shell free of axle and bearings, place an 11mm (or Imperial equivalent – 7/16”) in a bench vice. Do the vice up tight, it’s about to do a big job for you… · Place the hub over the allen key, disc side down and lock in the freehub’s backnut. When in securely, turn wheel anti-clockwise. It WILL be tight, it WILL make a loud crack as the tension and threadlock is broken. · With the backnut removed, turn the hub over and place freehub side down over allen key in vice. Repeat anti-clockwise motion with wheel to unthread freehub from hub shell. Expect effort and loud noises as before. Be sure to remove small spacer from hub also, it fits directly behind the freehub in the shell. The most common fitting error on these hubs is incorrect replacement of this spacer. DO NOT attempt to replace it over the backnut thread on the other side of the freehub. · Have a good look inside the hub now you have the chance. Remove any grit, dirt or old grease and make sure everything looks good to go. · Refitting Freehub. Re-assemble hub in reverse order to dis-assembly, take care with freehub spacer as mentioned before. Also, take care when re-fitting bearings, it’s not too tough, just be sure they go in straight…

Nice video, I really liked it...especially good for a first(?) video....