Alex Dark

10w good quality car oil...Chirs King recommends it

Its a very weird thread dude....some kind of imperial. I do have the right tap at college though.

ditto

Chuuuuune Hilltop Hoods, you like any other Aussie Hip-hop... Really like your style dude

Looks sick, love all the new Ano frames nowadays

Biketrialseller trialparts.net selectbikes.com

haha leg-end ( ) Click diagnosis

Yeeee

My coustellier V1 is cracked directly from a big downtube dent. Still wouldn't run an armordillo though...rather make something that looks cooler and works better

Bigger rotor...more leverage round hub, more bite and hold. Smaller rotor...the opposite

Ah research needed Edit: Doesn't really seem suited for aluminium...and will probably cost an arm and a leg to have done

Ball burnished would be sweet...no idea of any places to get that done though Im more worried about the rest of it at the moment Materials are taking an age to get here ( the little that I've ordered ) So I'm gonna crack on and get the really tricky parts done first. The dropouts, BB yoke and Magura mount area will probably be first up.

Ah good point.....To be honest, I'll probably just polish the hell out of it and leave it at that. Generous dose of lacquer too, make it easier to look for cracks too

Aimed at me?

Christ...

Truth

I ground my try-all every 3 weeks or so....no dents in 7 odd months?

Shimano Silent clutch hub Sure someone wanted one of these....£8 buy it now

I have no idea, but you put Onza t-bird cranks in the first post; which are most assuredly square taper cranks....

Right...got some materials, so jumped in at the deep-end and made some drop-outs. Took me 2 hours to get the Mill and everything set-up. Later found that King fun bolts won't quite clear the top of it, but I'll make the Mk.2 with some adjustments. This was just to get my eye in, and first time with a milling machine so don't be too harsh The final will be revised with the following: The lower un-milled section will be removed Snail-cam hole will be added The slot for the axle will be moved further inwards, and slightly further down to allow Chris King fun bolts to clear the top lip. The area on the right of the 45* angle will be also milled to fit inside the tubing. All areas of the dropout will be chamfered and polished. Cheers, any suggestions welcome

They will fit if your existing bottom bracket is wide enough to allow them to clear the chainstay. Otherwise a longer BB will be needed.

No, but to be honest, what's the point of putting it on a public forum when you're failing something that's not particularly impressive in practice? Anyway, Alex out before you get too antsy and report me or something silly...... This guy knows what's what ^

Yeh they weill fit...a wide 120mm+ square taper BB wil be needed. Like Revolver says, a long ISIS ffw compatible bb (128mm or more ) would probably work out cheaper, plus Isis is a far better system...

Personally, there're only two setups I'd really run.....rear king with Burns/echo/tryall cranks.....or Echo SL with try-all 135 rear hub and echo/tryall cranks. Rear freewheel seems a bit halfyway, the biggest advantage with FFW is moving the weight forwards away from the rear wheel.

Massive portion of the video doing nothing....a failed gap...and onto a brick Hardly worth videoing in my opinion, but whatever floats your boat