Alex Dark

Has been done before....and it buggers the hell out of the Hope internals. As to that Micro-leaking , water is less viscous, so will tend to leak more surely?

Basically, I'm making a bike frame from scratch ( topic in Trials Chat ) and i got all my materials all sorted, ordered etc. Got an email last night saying the tubing I was planning to use for the chainstay/seatstays has been discontinued Ideally I need 1" x 3/4" 16swg 6082 and would be eternally grateful if someone could find a Uk supplier for this! This is completely last resort as I have no diea what to do if i cant get hold of it The nearest i can get is 3/4 x 3/4 or 1" x 1".....the only other viable alternative is ovalised, but this would be extremely hard and expensive to source Thanks in advance for ANY help on the matter

Chris King are *apparently* quite bad for trials though.....the wedge deforms in the top. ( From the mouth of Bigman ) MY tensile Ace and Echo CNC and Pi g headsets were great.....

Pretty much any FFW crank... Try-all, Echo CNC both seem very good cranks...I run the Echos with no complaints whatsoever

Mate of mine snapped around 3 of these Viz Rear mod axles, and we realised they were all dying on the threads...whether this is because the actual thread caused a big enough weak spot, or the compressive axle ends forced the axle apart slightly we're not sure....however; he used a non threaded axle that was the same dimensions, then filed out the axle ends to accept it. Trouble is I can't remember which one it is The T-master 07 fits the Viz hub directly, threads and all.... Can anyone tell me if the Trialtech / Rockman / or most likely the T-master 06 will fit the Viz..... I guess the only dimension that matters is that between the bearing flanges? Cheers, Alex

If the holes are too small then the only thing you can do is drill it I guess

Why only the budget models under 26"? No limey 3 ..2 or 1

Truth

Cheap Haha, looks nice though dude

Ye she's a fair size....rides briliantly though

Basically had to re-design the BB yolk to suit the milling machine that we have at college, and to suit 1" 3/4" instead of 15 x 17mm which the previous one was designed for. The actual Mk2. dropouts are below, both polished and fresh out of the machine Click

nahh Change the rear rim to try-all /trialtech (100g+ off ) change frame to something around 1.8kgs ( atomz premier or similar....1.9kg so 300g lost ) Cut the bash down Change to front try-all tyre ( 100g ) Change to rear Der-kaiser / maxxis minion and chop every other knobble ( 100g+ ) so over half a kilo off there.... Yeh id square hole the rims and single the rear if it were me, change of tyres and frame would be next though

Have I missed soemthing? When is it okay to say this to someone?! Anyway, yeh the downtube is a pretty critical area. Stop-drill it (2mm drill at each end of the crack ) see if it spreads...if so then welding is your only option, but bear in mind the area surrounding the weld will be only 20% of the strength of the original material...so it will probably crack there again.

Mate had some heatsink yellows and they were poooo, I'd get some Try-all browns or Coustsink

Get the Limey 3 for sure....they ride mint. I'm the exact same height as you and a I ride a coust V2 that measures in at 1107mm

Shhh

Plain old water to get them on....could try some form of mild glue? not sure what though...

Viz are good if you replace the axle with a nonthreaded one and file the bearing preloaders out slightly... Onza t-master are solid as fek with a new cro-mo axle rockman BUB seem damn good, and a reasonable weight.

If its all the time, then the rotor may not be parallel to the mount. In this case the mount needs to be faced. orrr You could have a sticky piston that is causing one pad to drag on the rotor . orrrr The caliper needs to be moved away from the rotor and centralised ( this should be relatively easy to spot ) The rotor should be runing back in the middle of the cut-out in the caliper.

Means either the bearings are munched, or when you tighten the bolts it forces something against the shell or the plastic dust cover of the bearing. I had the same problem when my snailcam rubbed against my hub shell. A very small washer sorted it

Or maybe chain rubbing on frame...freewheel spins freely? BB really stiff?

Try pm-ing muel ...he made one for his Echo lite Edit: disc adaptor on bike How to make one

Over tightened hub bolts? snailcams binding on the hub shell or bearing? Rubbing disc brake?