Alex Dark

Cheap Haha, looks nice though dude

Ye she's a fair size....rides briliantly though

Basically had to re-design the BB yolk to suit the milling machine that we have at college, and to suit 1" 3/4" instead of 15 x 17mm which the previous one was designed for. The actual Mk2. dropouts are below, both polished and fresh out of the machine Click

nahh Change the rear rim to try-all /trialtech (100g+ off ) change frame to something around 1.8kgs ( atomz premier or similar....1.9kg so 300g lost ) Cut the bash down Change to front try-all tyre ( 100g ) Change to rear Der-kaiser / maxxis minion and chop every other knobble ( 100g+ ) so over half a kilo off there.... Yeh id square hole the rims and single the rear if it were me, change of tyres and frame would be next though

Have I missed soemthing? When is it okay to say this to someone?! Anyway, yeh the downtube is a pretty critical area. Stop-drill it (2mm drill at each end of the crack ) see if it spreads...if so then welding is your only option, but bear in mind the area surrounding the weld will be only 20% of the strength of the original material...so it will probably crack there again.

Mate had some heatsink yellows and they were poooo, I'd get some Try-all browns or Coustsink

Get the Limey 3 for sure....they ride mint. I'm the exact same height as you and a I ride a coust V2 that measures in at 1107mm

Shhh

Plain old water to get them on....could try some form of mild glue? not sure what though...

Viz are good if you replace the axle with a nonthreaded one and file the bearing preloaders out slightly... Onza t-master are solid as fek with a new cro-mo axle rockman BUB seem damn good, and a reasonable weight.

If its all the time, then the rotor may not be parallel to the mount. In this case the mount needs to be faced. orrr You could have a sticky piston that is causing one pad to drag on the rotor . orrrr The caliper needs to be moved away from the rotor and centralised ( this should be relatively easy to spot ) The rotor should be runing back in the middle of the cut-out in the caliper.

Means either the bearings are munched, or when you tighten the bolts it forces something against the shell or the plastic dust cover of the bearing. I had the same problem when my snailcam rubbed against my hub shell. A very small washer sorted it

Or maybe chain rubbing on frame...freewheel spins freely? BB really stiff?

Try pm-ing muel ...he made one for his Echo lite Edit: disc adaptor on bike How to make one

Over tightened hub bolts? snailcams binding on the hub shell or bearing? Rubbing disc brake?

Hope mono lever Here

Hardly cheap...I'd go for a tensile Ace or an Echo SL meself

They will weaken the frame to some extent...at the end of the day youre stressing a metal that's very vulnerable to fatigue. I wouldnt worry to omuch if it isn't a really compy frame, or the dents are less than 5mm deep.

I think thats the wrong lever...as the moto takes a different style lever. The Hope has to be bled with dot 4 or 5.1 ( as it says on the bore cap )

bleed brake, clamp pads into slaves with molegrips / vice/ hench hands. Slowly pull lever and watch for leaks. Will probably be the lever seal, or shroud nut connections.

Ye will need new spokes, and have to move your brake downwards ( if you have the nifty ones with two positions for the magura ) if not then I'm afraid you're buggered

10w good quality car oil...Chirs King recommends it

Its a very weird thread dude....some kind of imperial. I do have the right tap at college though.