CC12345678910
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Posts posted by CC12345678910
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6 hours ago, AndyT said:
Hoping to not have to go ffw...
Your teeth and knee cartilage will greatly appreciate this decision
Is it necessary is it to have the special cylinders to set the washers and seals?
Lord no.
I personally have an ofcut of Echo Urban steerer tube (aka thickwall alu tube) I faced flat with a file, but any upturned large diameter 1/2in drive socket over the axle would do just fine a a drift for the drive side hub bearing (personally used a large dia. spark plug socket before now), the disc side hub bearing is installed using a socket (as a drift) with the axle clamped in the vice by the centre section, then the end cap is put on after that (pushed on by hand) then the whole assembly installed in the hub to guide the drive side hub bearing.
EDIT: Forgot to say, after you do that you install the the driver body, push the driver seal into the hub shell using the ball end of a large (6mm +) allen key and pop the drive side end cap on by hand. Now lay the hub down square on the NDS end cap and twat the drive side with a mallet, then vice versa.
Could I not leave the hub in the sun and freeze the bearings, then just plop them in ?
This couldn't hurt, but I've never needed to.
As a side note are you positive the bearings are done? I'd find it very difficult to believe you see, I think you're dropout spacing is over preloading the bearings (had this with my 116mm pro2, in my case the hub bearings span fine, but the driver felt like poop when backpedalled despite all the bearings being fine out of the bike)
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1 hour ago, Scott Gibbs said:
Trials addict have the 2005 levers and slave cylinders in stock
Only right hand ones, would be fine for a euro rear brake though i s'pose. You can run them the wrong way up anyhow.
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I just tried again but on windows this time and it deffo doesn't work, just hangs then gives a tiny icon but no image.
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22 hours ago, SamKidney said:
As I'm sure Jolfa will be eagerly awaiting an update, here we go...
Fuel set up is now complete! Engine can be safely run at a rail pressure of 60psi (OE specified fuel pressure for an Ep3).
(image shows pressure after it's been switched off)
AEM universal fuel pressure regulator, with self assembled braided lines and AN-6 fittings throughout. As simple as drilling and tapping two holes in the N/S shock tower and bolting it down. Lovely. I'm going to buy a 90deg fitting for the left hand port as the line sits snug to the battery and I'd rather it didn't.
Extra vagueness achieved! The jpeg link doesn't work...
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Went past in the work van the other day and caught a glimpse of a large skatepark and BMX track and I've been meaning to look it up ever since. I took note of a nearby private members club thingy and that the zoo wasn't that far away, so I've just been looking it up on g maps. I tracked the place down, stuck on 3D mode and used a screenshot add-on to grab these visualisations. I hope the files are not too large.
Co-ordinates should anyone care are 53.8123105,-3.0227741 (copy and paste back into google). Just after some info on the spot really as I read a story on a local paper website that the wooden ramps were't being maintainted all that well. Anyone ever ridden the place or know anything about it? The BMX track looks like it'd be good fun anyhow.
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7 hours ago, Tilly05 said:
1) I'm in need of some advice, every search I do for mission prodigy parts or spares etc comes up with nothing. A manual, spec sheets, etc, nothing.
2a) Did a bit today, but my crank arms are worn and the spindle looks worn too. the crank arms are magic f-l and f3 arms. I showed them to guy at Halfords who laughed and said not here pal.
2b)So leaving online but how do I know what will fit?
2c) Is there anywhere or anyone out there with decent info on the prodigy??
3) Had a look at tarty bikes, some nice looking stuff on there and some parts Id like to buy but I'v no ideas which I need..
1) Yeaah... You ain't gonna find owt like a spec sheet on a website or anything. The mission prodigy was a pseudo trials bike that was thrown together out of a far eastern factory's parts catalogue (all the frame tubes are pre made stock items, as are the hubs, the 14mm dropouts will have been because those hubs and dropouts were cheaper, the forks are suspiciously like 24in forks with the mounts adjusted etc. etc.)
Google a Base T19 and you will see a similar bike from the same time period. It was a time period where trials was going to be the next fad and be as big as BMX and loads (of people) knocked out anything to jump on the bandwagon (These days if you order twenty bikes to be made in china you can call yourself a trials bike manufacturer and sell on alibaba - nothing's changed)
2a) 10 - 15 year old taiwan brand crank arms - you're not going to find nor do you want direct replacements. Halfords are shit anyway on the whole, but you did (inadvertently) walk into that one.
2b) In terms of cranks, I'd need to know where the cranks/bottom bracket are square taper or isis splined before I'd answer. Post up the crank arm length too as that'd be helpful.
Beyond that I'd like to know what direction you intend to take the build in. Basically if you want to keep the bike fairly standard and to a point where it works fairly quickly, or change a shit load of stuff like I did with mine.
2c) As you may have gathered; No. I found out all the info i've already told you by owning one as a side project and swapping round my spare parts collection/hoard 'til I got a combination that looked right & worked well, combined with spending half my life building and playing with all different types of pedal bike as base knowledge.
3) Tarty's are a sorted bunch, who are used to receiving 'will this fit my onza ___' type questions so don't sweat it. Besides which that's what a forum is for. Post up detailed photos with a well articulated description and you should get an answer.
Hope any of that was useful.
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3 hours ago, Mark W said:
The headset looks to be a normal standard/regular headset rather than integrated or internal, and the BB is just a square taper type. You'd probably want a 127.5mm spindle to make sure that it all clears nicely.
Mission prodigy's have a 1.5inch headset (in mine it was an FSA pig, which I believed to be to original, Google/ebay listings corroberate this)
They also use mission branded hubs, the rear of which uses a 14mm axle. Thankfully both front and rear are sealed cartridge bearing so they shouldn't be any/much trouble, but changing to a conventional modern trials hub/wheel will require 14 - 10mm dropout adapters. You also realistically can't fit wider than a 42-44mm wide rim (the Alex DX32 is 38mm) and even then you will need tensile offset clamps for magura (which you'll have to pick up 2nd hand as they are discontinued) or heatsink adapters (link) on the widest setting. I was fortunate to have enough of the right spare parts kicking around at the time to work all this out.
For reference mine came with mission brand ISIS cranks and a 118mm Truvativ BB (I forget the model but it used that truvativ 8 spline BB tool that tartys sell). A longer axle will do no harm as the stock chainline is sh*te (really tight to the tire) and even a KMC 610HX scrapes the bash mount when using front freewheel. That may not be true using the OE cranks, rear freewheel and 24-18t gearing but as I went FFW straight away I've no comment.
Use a trialtech or tensile 4 bolt booster for the rear brake as the frame flexes like a wet paper bag, and the front brake mounts are not much better. That said, 80% of that is the v-brake adapters (like the ones fitted), they're just a sh*t idea and ideally want changing to 4-bolt style adapters.
Off the top of my head I think that about covers it.
@Tilly05 If you've any more questions feel free to hit quote on this post and ask away.
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5 hours ago, niconj said:
I'd rather file down the axle than the fork though.
Do this.
I had to file two flats in each side of my because hub's axle (very similar to an echo TR hub) in order for it to fit my element fork's dropouts. That was getting on for 5 years ago. You may wish to carefully file away the paint from inside the dropouts of your element forks, but stop filing when you see metal.
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@aener I can't see a song credit anywhere so what is the song and artist please?
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On 27/10/2016 at 9:16 AM, Danny said:
now the offender has gone
I don't understand but thanks anyways, I can tidy up my fs now and have more than 3hrs to spot my godawful typkng ib evetyrhing else
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On 10/24/2016 at 9:51 AM, ooo said:
would be great to have it back to normal.
I second this.
@Danny Have you forgotten about this or is there nothing you can do?
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On 10/10/2016 at 0:44 PM, iron_panda said:
@CC12345678910 Heard the term from various videos on YouTube. I know what you mean by figuring it out for myself and I do agree with you. But at my level, I feel like I had to watch some videos to get a general idea of what tricks you can do and get an idea on how to do them. But thanks for pointing it out, I'll know not to take how'to videos too seriously now
I maybe wasn't coherent enough.
IMO;
How-to vids from trashzen, thinkbikes etc. and no doubt the ones Ali C says he will do in time = Good n solid
That MTB youtube channel with a guy that has been riding 5mins & is barely capable of handling that mint coloured inspired full build yet he has decided he is an accomplished enough trial rider that he can instruct others how to ride (as badly as he does, preaching all his mistakes, bad habits and traits as gospel) = bad
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12 hours ago, iron_panda said:
American bunny hops
I recognise that terminology, because it's a term no one else uses. if you got that from that somethingsomething bike hacks guy on youtube, hack is a good summary of that guy. Ignore him. Ignore everything he shows you and go figure it out yourself, you'll do it faster, & you'll do stuff better in the end.
I've watched that series and he has no place teaching others "how to ride trials" if he cant ride for shit himself. I don't bash on other people often but honestly most of the stuff he 'teaches', is showing a large section of people how to do trials wrong. I had to stop watching after about ep.4 or 5 because all it was doing was winding me up.
@Ali C If you have seen the guy I'm on about, he is the reason you need to start doing how to's, because you'll do a proper job of it.
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6 minutes ago, Tom Booth said:
Story about bat shit crazy jeremy kyle auditionee
That's made me crack the only smile all day. Thanks for posting that, i'll leave out the detail, but I needed a laugh.
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I've wondered for a while; Do the stroker cranks to make a 1.8 mx5 into a 2.1, fit in a 1.6? I've just had the (purely academical) thought that this would make an approx. 1900cc engine with a unique characteristic (maybe not beneficial however).
And likewise is the stroke of a 1600 different to an 1800 in stock form? I have thought that the ultimate build would be a 1600 block (with turbo ready plug), bored to 1800 spec, and turbo as usual. And then (with a head gasket sandwich if needed) perhaps then throwing in a stroker for good measure.
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18 hours ago, ItsMatt said:
@CC12345678910 I bid £11
Huh?
Hint: It's not my item you toasty shaped prat
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19 minutes ago, MadManMike said:
1.8 is a good shout if you plan to supercharge / turbo it.
I may be misinformed but I thought it was the 1.6 that has the mythical oil gallery blanking plug? Hence it can be turboed without the more scary implication of fcking up the block, and the biggest engineering job is to drill/tap the sump?
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In the other tab I'm browsing for a little computer that I can put it the garage to play my music through. I had to share this item description though.
"Hello.
This is my (soon to be yours) Compaq Netbook.
I won't bore you with the specifics, its a Netbook. It isn't much different to any other Netbook out there. It works. The battery is OK. It has three (yes, three!) USB slots.
I don't remember why I even bought this thing, I woke up confused, a little hungover, and somewhat annoyed at myself when I read notifications saying I had purchased this as I didn't really need a Netbook. But, at least I didn't drunk text my ex.
Small win.
Anyway, if you need a Netbook (or maybe you're drunk like I was, and you're doing some online shopping), then look no further.
This is perfect for watching Arsenal completely dominate a game for 80 minutes, and then conceding two in the final 10, or watching your favourite online erotica. Whatever your Internet streaming needs (films, music, football, porn), this little fella is perfect.
It's on Windows 10, but I'll reset it back to Windows 7. Pictures show HDD and processor stuff.
I'll start the bidding at a tenner. Why not. Any questions, as per, drop me a message.
Chur boys."
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Sorry total brain fart...
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17 hours ago, manuel said:
Isn't Titan stuff usually like 3 years?
Sub 30quid grinder with 3yrs guarantee? I'll have to check, I was working on the usually fairly valid assumption that screwfix are a bit naff, & the guarantee would be the minimum 1year that has to be supplied by law, and that would be that.
In the meantime I 'fixed' it by spraying GT85 either side of the switch (I guessed there was dust in there) and cycled it through a few times, but if I can get another then obviously I will.
EDIT: Came here from notification so I missed your point @Tom Booth You were totally on the money
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57 minutes ago, niconj said:
Same as Apple.
And Windows... And Samsung...
Racing Line cranks with fook off holes in them also spring to mind.
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On 20/09/2016 at 0:33 PM, iron_panda said:
Around by Waterloo Dock and the Titanic Hotel?
Could be, but I live no where near Liverpool so we could mean the same place (I think not though) & I wouldn't have a clue. I mispoke however, it was the echo arena I rode past. Google maps say the place I mean is called Coburg Wharf. Copy and paste 53.3904443,-2.9868566 back into google and click maps.
EDIT: If you do go there don't bash the place up!
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Despite having only done an absolute maximum of 20hrs work, my shitbox titan brand grinder shat itself tonight. It's now permanently on and the switch does sweet FA, meaning you have to pull the plug from the extension. Seeing as this occoured whilst I was laid under the van using a wire cup brush, spraying my face with rust, wire strands, years of flaky road shite and assorted other grot, all less than half an arms length away from me, this revelation did not impress me...
After a bit of WTAF?, I thought no matter, I'll just get up screwfix in the morning and swap it, again (the one that broke is my 3rd).
Came in, cleaned up, grabbed a drink etc;
"Right, find the guarantee"
"Found it!"
Purchase date 19th august 2015
Exactly one month to the day out of guarantee.
B0LL0CKS!
This make Ciaran a very grumpy bear indeed.
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An oldie but a goodie, It's probably bout time this got another outing.
Not my game, but a pretty good boredom killer. Controls are the directionals, press & hold up to gap, up + left/right gets it to bitchhop sideways, left/right to hop round in a circle. It's a 'the floor is lava' type gig where if you miss you dab and spawn.
Neon Bow Headset Bearing Replacement
in Trials Chat
Posted
I've had this headset for absolute time and the lower bearing has been stuffed for a fair while (far far too long infact) and I want both of them changed cos it really is about bloody time I sorted this.
Question is, does my Neon Bow HS take 36/45 deg bearings or 45/45deg?
^ Description says Echo forks with the intergrated crown race fit, so I guess I need 45/45deg?
Also If tarty lads read this, do you not stock replacements of have I missed them? I guess mabye that the Echo SL bearings fit and that might be the answer?
Cheers peeps.
Ciaran.