Muel

oh my god! My Mate has that exact bike and only bought to practice for Mototrials too! He kicks my arse at mototrials, seeing as he has a 04 gasgas and I have a 88 ty250. But I have always kicked his arse on biketrials, even when I tried to do it on my Scott!

If the new onza cranks are as shite as the muscleman's then it just shows how crap onza bits are. Their frames are mint. Cranks = shite. Grips = Shite. Pedals = shite. Mind you my mate has muscleman's, he was so pissed off with the ones on my bike, he jumped on the allen key with the back brake locked until they wouldn't turn any more. Not loose yet, funnily enough.

Thanks for telling me that, after I've bought them. They certainly look better than my musclemans, which my mate also has, and haven't failed yet, as long as you keep them really tight most cranks should be fine according to biketrial.com. At my level i could be riding XC cranks anyway...

Seriously, never ever buy a T-Mag, my mate has one, its all right spec wise, but feels all fat, if you no what i meen. The T-Pro feels more like a competition bike, strong yet lightened and more refined. I prefer a ground maggy on the front anyway, and thats the only difference to the spec!

Thanks for that advice, but the bike is second hand. I have got a crank puller and had to use it to get my right hand crank arm off when my dad was going to weld my freewheel for me. worked like a treet apart from the crank went on much further and as a result jammed against the BB shell. It needs a new BB anyway so i ran it grinding away and it has ground a lod of the shell off. I can still get the BB out htough luckily... Anyway the thread is fine on them its just the taper that is knackered. Thanks for the advice though, its good that you tried to help.

Right, thanks for all that, the Echo's have come now and look really nice, much lighter than my musclemans aswell! Not allowed them until cristmas though

I'm getting echo 6061 cranks, (thanks for all the advice!), Onza citrus pads, a black and pink tartybikes t-shirt, and a Tensile or Try-All freewheel. Oh and my dad is making me some custom bash rings, bar ends, stem stacks and chain tensioners , he works on a lathe so he can make round things quite well!

I might be able to stretch to the Try-All, if I get enough money I'll buy one, if not the Tensile! Thanks for all your help guys.

Right then I've got this one sorted for you mate. Rear tyre, buy this: http://www.bikedock.com/posit/shop/search.php (the top one). Rims, buy an Echo (07) or Try All front rim, cos they are about as big as 20" rears and get it built onto your original hub. Or buy a T-PRO, if you have that much.

I have just bought the new Echo 6061 cranks (thanks to everyone for the advice by the way!), and I now am looking into buying a new freewheel as i don't much fancy running my welded ACS Claw (which is knackered). So I am wondering which is the best free wheel to get for under £40. The tensile one is looking quite inviting, but after all the help with my cranks I decided to check on here first. If there are any better than this can you recommend where to get them from because I have only ever ordered from tartybikes.co.uk. Cheers! The only other option I have found is the new monty freewheel but I have heard that they aren't that good. Monty: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=2153 Tensile: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=398

DON'T get a T-Mag, the T-PRO is a better frame with the same bits (apart from the disk). I'd get the 07 T-Comp which comes with tensile cranks and freewheel. They also come with a disk mount on the forks if you wnat to upgrade, I was going to with my T-PRO but i just ground the rim and I prefer it to my mates bikes which have disks on the front.

I just use an ordinary angle grinder with a stone or metal cutting disk, so make sure you have the right disk, others work but in my experience the grind isn't deep enough and wears in no time. 1. First remove your wheel and remove the tyre and tube, I remove the rim tape as well to stop any shards getting caught in or under it and giving you punctures. 2. Put the wheel flat on the floor and put your foot on the rim so the opposite side to where your foot is sticks up in the air. 3. Turn the angle grinder on and hold it at about 45 degrees to the rim, if you want a lighter, shallower grind then tip it flatter to the rim, if you want a coarser, deeper grind then tilt it steeper. 4. Just touch the disk to the rim and start to move it back and forth, remember not to press down to hard at the start, and make sure you cover all of the rim, as the disk will only make a 3-4mm wide line. 5. Brush all the shards off the rim, or blow off with an air line if you have one. 6. Run your fingers round the edge of the rim to check for any sharp burrs which can damage your tyre, if you find any remove them with a file. Tips: - If the angle grinder is jumping up and down on the rim, shift your foot further up slightly and press harder, this should stop the rim moving. - Always hold the grinder with two hands, this will help you get an even grind and will stop the grinder jumping about. - Take your time, you don't want to get and uneven rim, if you go to deep in one place, your bite point will change depending on where the deep spots are because the destance between the pads will be smaller. - You should get about 7-8 grinds on one rim but some rims have thicker sidewalls than others.

I havn't snapped much on my T-PRO yet, just crossovers. But when i used to jump more I snapped axles, levers a pedal spindle and I caved a rim once too.

The only things I don't like about my T-PRO are the amazing ACS Claw freewheel comes loose all the time, so I'm going to weld that when I have it off to put on my new cranks, and I don't like the cranks that are on it, because they are knackered and keep coming loose because the taper is shot. The moral of the story is, don't let your cranks come loose, allways keep them as tight as you can! (Top-Tip: Stand on the allen key while the bike is leant against a wall and jump about a bit!)

You will have to ride them both and see what you think. I was all set to get a kona scrap (I think), was about to pay for it and the guy said, "we've also got a Scott YZ0 if you want to have a look". I didn't really want to but i thought I might as well. I rode them next to each other in the car park and was amazed at you much better the Scott was, it was lighter, smaller and I could throw it about more. So I bought it! I know that they are both dirt jump bikes but I'd bare my experience in mind, you don't want to buy the wrong one at that price...

The monty's are shite, my mates got them and the edges have already folded and it has split at the join so there is a big step, which if ruining his tyres. I would get a try-all rather than echo though, I have heard better things but there isn't much between them. The 06 echos aren't as strong as the try-alls but the 07 echos are stronger than the 06s because the holes are smaller and the sidewall is thicker so it can take more grinds.

Get an 06 t-PRO or buy second hand, if you look enough you can buy a nearly new bike! my mate got a t-bird that had barely been used for 175

A few of my mates run vees. the are as powerful as maggies but don't other the same snappyness and modulation. when you have a grind and decent pads maggies are more powerful than vees though. (In my opinion!)

V8s are definately the best value for money, depends whether you ride UCI or BIU style though, I definately ride BIU and they are getting damaged but have been on for 3months and aren't that knackered yet. Heres a better idea, buy V8s, rebuild them when they need it, keep the bearings nipped up and buy a new set of pins every 6 months! your still going to have to buy them for any other pedals anyway, no matter how expensive they are!

thanks for that, I might be buying some new musclemans from a mates t-mag with a welded acs claw freewheel for £35, so is this a better option?

I just use monty pads with a light grind, works perfectly! I don't know anyone who uses tar, so I don't know how well it works. Where do you get it from? I might try some.

Just wondering if anyone has used these cranks and which you think is best, my muscleman's are knackered so its either of these two. By all means suggest some different ones but I can't spend more than around £50! Echos: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=156 Musclemans: http://supercycles.co.uk/site_details.asp?ProductID=381

I started on mod with the intention of moving to stock, but I have found that they are just to big and heavy for me to ride at the moment. but you can ride them in skateparks more easily and you can also ride about on them more easily. A good compromise would to have a go on a 24 like an onza zoot, I havn't ridden one but i have heard they are really good to learn stock stuff on.

Just wondering if anyone knows where to get tar from, or possibly if Monty brake spray is any good?

Nah, get a second hand Hope Mono Mini Trial for the front and some sticky pads and a fresh grind for the back