Henrik Y

I haven't owned any of those frames but my friend had a Koxx Levelboss and he recently bought a Zoo Pitbull. I've tried them both and I have a short Crescent ilions that is about 1050mm and I like to do some street tricks. The Koxx was impossible FOR ME to do an 180 and it didn't feel good for anything else then jump on the rearwheel and pedalkick. I thought that the Zoo would be the same as the Koxx but I got very surprised. It was much easier to pull up to manuals. Superb balance when standing still on the backwheel. It's a little long but it was much easier to make 180 with. That's my experiance with those two frames. But things like handlebars and steems could make some differense too. The Zoo had a little longer and higher angle on the steem.

"Krya pa dig" as we say in Sweden. I hope you get back on the bike soon.

Youtube is fast an easy. Ok, the quality is poor but the riding can still be good. And if there is much work behind it with editing and good cameras with high resolution I understand that people want better quality. But as a first look I prefer youtube and if it's good I would like to have a good version. So in my opinion I think you should put up your videos on youtube with a link in the description to a high quality file. And it's easier for more people will find you if you also use youtube.

Thanks for all the tips so far.

Jaha så du är också här. Kul! I've been thinking about painting the typhoon. My brother is a carpainter so I have learned a bit from him. I've been thinking about a black base with marblazed copper metalic on that and may be some gray metalic tribals. I tried to build a bike that I could ride trial with and also do some street riding, my shorter crescent frame didn't work so well. And my friend recently bought a long ZOO bike and when I tried that one I felt that I need a plain trial bike. So I guess that a 24" bike would be better for street trial.

I've been thinking about getting a 24" frame so that I can do trial riding with a little more street style. Do you guys know about anything?

I've saved videos from youtube for a long time, you simply watch the video and then check the url and go to the "temporary internet files" folder and sort by filesize and the movie clips will get in the top and there you find it. Rename it and add the file ending .flv

Hmm... I didn't think about that they un-twist but sounds true now when I think about it. But for me it have gone so far that I could re-tighten the spokes with my fingers and then they where moving a lot and was knirking against each other and when I pushed on them they moved up to a 1-2 cm. And then they where well tightened before I started riding the first time. So it can change a lot when they settle in.

I found an other cool oldschool street trial movie clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rEqqP8uO8E

Now you sounds a little to serious with diets and stuff. Stretching before riding and warming up is important to prevent injuries. But diet and training with resting on schedule is for "health addicts"(don't know if that is proper English). Listen to the body and give it what it want. Some times it screams for biking(almost every day), and after biking it screams for ice cream milkshake with extra sugar. As long as the body doesn't have any problems with overweight or injuries then it knows what it need and you should give it that. About the weight that Scopse talked about. Generally I think it's like that but more muscles with the cost of more weight cold be more effective but I don't think it makes so big difference. The advantages you get from more muscle weight is that the bike gets lighter compared to the persons weight.

Brake booster, rough grinded rims and brake pads made for rough grind made a hughe differense for me. Before I always had to think about how much weight I had backwards when landing on the rear wheel because I slipped very often with the brake. Then I hade soft pads and light grind without a brake boster. Now I never think about it, perfect brake all the time.

I've also been thinking about this and I think it's not so important with the muscle strength. The technique and perfect timing is more important. When I look at Ryan Leech f.ex. he doesn't pull so hard that he crap his pants when doing the high and long jumps with a 180s included. And when I try to do a jump not even close the his range I pull so hard that it feels like the bike is going to break. But since I started with trial my neck muscles has grown and the muscles between the shoulder blades. I've felt the difference when I take on my wetsuit, because now days it's very tight around my neck, and it wasn't before. I don't know about the legs because I never where tight pants but sometimes after heavy trialing I've felt some exercise aches in my butt muscles, so they are probably used a lot.

Thanks for the thread, I'm going to buy a new hub and I was thinking about Hope Pro 2 or Chris King. I've also talked with my friend who knows this stuff and he said that the Hope will do fine but there is something special with the CK hub and they are a little better but the difference in the price is much bigger then the difference in quality. So if you already have a Hope Pro 2 and it's working good then I wouldn't change it if youre not a "gadget faggot "(as we call it in sweden) and must have the CK name on it. I've considered to order a Hope Pro 2 with CK sprockets after looking into this. And I think they will feel about the same compared to my cheep crappy shimano hub.

And I thought bike trial was a quite new sport. I've been riding trial for one and a half year now and before two years ago I didn't even know that bike trial existed. I started on my whole dampered downhill style bike. But I had to switch the rear coil to an aluminum pipe to get the rear stiff so that I could jump on the rear wheel. That was before I ever knew about bike trials. But I started to learn standing still on the bike and move around with the wheels locked and jump up and over one pallet. And thanks to a little kid that saw me doing this told me about bike trial so then I found some vids on the internet. So it really suprises me that you where doing this 1971.

This is old school street trial. At least some of you should know about him. Hans Rey, he does amazing stuff on a normal MTB and we are complain about parts that are to heavy on our modern bikes An old competition from 1993.

I've re-spoked my wheel two times and tighten and adjusted them many times. If the spokes touches where they cross each other you can hear a knirking sound when the move then I tighten them a little more until it stops. I tighten the spokes on feel. I screw until I feel resistance then it gets heavy pretty fast, then I tighten it just a little more(about 30 degrees). After that I check that the wheel is straight and adjust it if needed. After some riding you will start the hear the knirking and then it's time to re-tighten the spokes. You may have to do that two times. It works fine for me.

If it's just a little residue on the disk then brake cleaner could work but not so good from my own experience. If it's oil the only good solution is burn it of. Boiling is not so good because oil doesn't dissolve in water and the boiling temp of oil is much higher then water. When I burn my disk and pads I use a butane gas burner because it doesn't give to much heat. You don't want to heat the whole disk through only the surface. And when you burn the pads be careful they could be made of materials and glues that can take damage from to much heat. Burn them intense but fast so only the top surface get hot. Then you can sand of the surface of the pads. Be careful and don't over heat because the disk can twist and bend when heated. If there is oil you will see it as small dots and bubbles when you go over it with the flame. If the disk starts to coloring in yellow - purple - blue then you've heated way to much.

Oh, sorry i missed your post. It's Roox dhs.

Hmm... I don't know. There is no place to buy new ones so we have to order from England or Germany. But some times you can find frames and other stuff on buy and sell sites. And a frame can cost from 150£ and up depending on condition and quality.

I bought it as a "trial bike" without a name but I've heard from a few people that it's "Crescent" or a "Biyanche"(spelling?) depending on how old because Biyanche bought it from Crescent. Thats all I know about the frame. The front wheel is a tubeless rim with aluminum spokes and is light as it was made of a polymer. Front brake: Hope mono trial older version. Steam and bar: Tryall and Echo. Rear wheel: Shimano 40£ range cheep hub with an Echo frontrim 40mm to fit the small space in my frame. 6 gears: front sprocket 22t rear 19 - something small. Shimano derailleur. Fork: unknown. Magura hs33 rear brake. Seat: I only have this bike so I'm thinking about geting a seat.

Hello! This seems to be an interesting forum for trial bikers. My name is Henrik and I'm from Sweden. I've been riding trial for about one and a half year now. I introduce myself with some pics.