Henrik Y

I was just wondering because I've found 2 cheep second hand M4 but I haven't even found anywhere to buy only the caliper to the mono trial. So maybe directly from Hope or like chainreaction.com? Any ideas of where to get one?

How is this one: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17249 compared to the mono trial?

I have an old hope mini disk brake and I was thinking about getting a new caliper and was thinking about the mono trial but there are a few second hand M4 avaliable so I was wondering how the M4 is compared to the mono trial. Or can I just forget using an M4 for trials riding?

Yes, heat is the solution. I tried to heat the pads on one of my brakes that I didn't have time to fix before on the stove. And then wiped the pads and the disk off with brake cleaner. And they work super. And never sand the disk if you would get that idea. I tried it with an old crappy disc and it was worse then getting oil on it. Disc brakes need large smooth contact surface so air holes in the disk is not very nessesarly for trial bikes. Only for downhill when you brake often and in high speeds and they get hot.

Even easier, if your mom allows you to do it.

Then you just have to burn a little more. My brakes work fine. You can try and if your not satisfied you can buy new ones.

I've got a lot of experience on this. My best frind is my small butane gas burner. Then I burn the disc and the brake surface of the pads. You dont need to through heat the material, just the surface. On the disc you will see small dots when the flame goes over it and that's the oil burning of. You can clean it with brake cleaner afterwards. Try a little easy first, if it doesn't work burn a little more. You maybe could put them in the oven too but since I have a burner it's much faster and easier so I haven't tried that. Sanding the pads could help to but burn of the oil first or else you will push it into the pad as you sanding it. You will get much of it off but it will be some left if you only sand them.

If both are wire brakes then you could build a special lever that can take two wires. But if it's oil brakes then you could take a hose splitter(I think monty has one) and put it on the hose from the lever and then split it to the two brakes. But first of all you will lose a lot of the motion on the brakes because they have to share the amount oil from just one lever and for the second they have to be made for same type of oil. Just a cool thing to do but I don't think you will get so much out of it except trouble x2.

What? You are whining like small girls. He didn't even have to amputate it. A broken leg is not so dangerous as it may look like, a crushed elbow or backward bent knee is much worse because you can lose you moving ability. But I think that the few videos thats out on the net with people smashing their teeth against concrete walls scares me most from riding. I'm thinking much of the video when a guy on a trials bike is geting up in speed and draws the bars to bunnyhopp and don't get it up and bumps his wheel in the wall and flys ofer the bars and hit the edge with the face. Since i saw that one I never try to bunnyhopp up on things with my trial bike.

This is for those who don't have a grinder or just wants to do like me. I use a rasp, it makes wider groves then the grinder and that makes it easier for water and dirt to get away from the contact surface so you get a good grip in wet and muddy conditions. I use tryalls hard pads made for rough grinded rims and it works great. The grind that's on the pic is almost a year old and it still works fine, the pads are as old as the grind and they haven't worn much. edit: a brake booster is also makes a big difference.

Nice! I've ordered about a third of the parts to my inspired build. So I will be joining the 24trial club soon.

Nice. I've ordered a third of the parts to my inspired build and I'm also going with these colors.

I voted 26" but I will buy a 24" very soon. And it's not just because of the 24" wave that seems to be right now. I've been riding trials for one and a half year and i started with a short 20" and tried some streety things but it was not suitable for me because of the small wheels so I bought a 26" and I tried to ride a little street style with it and It was a little difficult so I've been looking for something a little smaller but still suitable for trial but I haven't found anything untill now when the Inspired has come out and to a descent price. So I've bought a GU frame to my 26" bike and made it a pure trial bike and then I will have the 24" for allround style.

First time my mother got crazy when I took the bike in to my room. Then she told me that I could use a lock. Then I told her that only the front wheel costs more then my old "normal" MTB new price. Then it was Ok

I weight about 56kg so they hold for me. They may not be suitable for heavier persons.

I have my own apartment so I can have them where I want to. But it's a little tight with space so I use to have one in the trunk on my Volvo 740. I just have to take of the front wheel and it goes in and nobody can see it. At my parents home I used to have it indoors in my room when it's getting under +5C and humid it gets moist and the disc brake and bolts starts rusting. But in the summer I have it outdoors leaned to the wall or in a little storage house made of tarpaulin and bars. There's a very small risk that it will be stolen there because we live 15km outside town in the forest and trial isn't very popular in Sweden so the only one that I think would steal it is someone that is drunk and want a bike to get home. And that person would leave it along the road after a few 100m realizing it's both faster and easier to walk.

The cranks are "roox dhs" http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/oldercranks/product_86675.shtml They are very light and i like them except the color. If i remember right they weight about 200-210gr each. They are much lighter then the zoo, gu and echo cranks that weight 530gr a pair.

I know it doesn't looks so good but here comes new pics with a few new parts. The new hub, brake clamps in gold and rim-tape in orange made it look a little better but I would like to have a green front rim with a gold hub then it would look much better. But I'm saving for a 24" so that has to wait. And the colors blend together better then the pic shows. The camera makes the pearl purple come out to much and the green lights up very much too. Here is a few pics with the new parts and better light. You may still not like it but I think you like it a little more at least, I hope A new front wheel with matching colors is next on the wish list for this bike. I would like to repaint the cranks in green, but now I'm back in Osby to study so I can't do that right now.

I do a half pedal stroke when I get up on the backwheel, if there is space to do it. Then I start with my "wrong" foot forward so I get my favourit foot forward when I'm up on the back wheel. I use to do the same when side jumping too. Both wheels on the ground, wrong foot forward, half pedal stroke up to backwheel and directly jump from there. If there is a tight space I lean forward and then swing backwards and does a 1/5 or 1/6 of a pedal stroke to get up on the backwheel.

I have the fork in my left hand to hold the food so that I can use my right hand for the cutting motion with the knife. When I've cut all the food in small pieces I switch the fork to my right and start eating We should learn everything with both right and left foot forward. Sidehop both left and right. I can do a 180 down from things in both directions without any problems first time I did it the "other" I thought I would crash and it felt wierd just before the jump but actually it went as good as the first way. On snowboard I've learned to ride both ways. And when just balancing without any jumping like riding along a railroad track I have my left forward. So start doing it both ways!

I kick footballs with my right foot. I have my right foot front when jumping on bikes. But I also prefer to have my right foot forward when skateboarding and snowboarding(goofy), all my friends rides boards with the left foot forward. How does it look like when you compare bike with board?

I think dish soap could work.

Ok, thanks. I was thinking about 13t to get a little more speed. And this confirms that I will not get to far away from what I was thinking.

I'm making a list of parts that I need to build a 24" trial bike with an Inspired frame and I was thinking about the sprocket sizes. On my 26" I have 22t/19t, would 18t/14t be the same on a 24" or should I even go with a 13t? And crank length, 160mm or 170mm? Anyone that have some experience and thoughts on this that could give me some help are welcome.

I've tried ungrinded, smoothgrinded and harshly grinded with different hardness on the pads and I can say that harshly grinded with hard pads works best over all conditions. I run on an Echo front rim as rear wheel(don't know if they hold grinds better). And I grind it with a rasp to get large groves. I don't need to grind much(I still have a little colour left) and I've been riding my current grind for almost a year and it still works as new. I think that larger groves helps to get water and dirt away from the contact surface and the brake works better in wet and muddy condition. Before I had this setup I was riding with softer pads and smoth grind and I could never trust my brakes, riding in wet condition was suicide. So my tips are, harsh grind, hard pads and a fat brakebooster. I have tryalls green pads for harshly grinded rims but I think that other hard pads should work. My brakepads seems to last long too, I've been looking at them and I can't see that much have wear off, they almost looks like they're new.