Henrik Y

Drill the holes and try to find someone that can TIG(GTAW) weld it. You may have to take a Dremel and cut it up to 1mm to be able to weld it good. I think it looks easy done but then I'm currently studying welding. If you should get it welded dont grind the weld down to get it smooth because you cant get the aluminium clean on the inside and then it will not melt together on the inside and make a little ditch.

I've recently ordered a 06

Now I consider it finished.

It is really difficult to trial with this bike because it's heavy and it's suspension slows down and prevent every move. Keeping it on the backwheel is heavy and it always wants to get the front wheel down. What I wanted to do with this film was not only pure trial but a little mix of everything where I use my trials skills in street and crosscountry riding. It was not so much riding in the woods because it was to coold and wet and extremly slippery.

Sharp drills is a must if you are hand drilling. Because you cant push hard enough.

I've know it's not meant to be trialed with. But I've been riding trial for one and a half year and I live in the south of Sweden where I'm studying and my trial bike is in parts in Falun In the middle of Sweden at my parents home for painting and upgrading some parts. So when I went back to down without a bike I got crazy and bought this one because I also want a bike that I could bike the 18km to school sometimes and ride in the woods. And I missed my trial so much when I was out riding with my friend and I saw things that I used to trial on and then I just tried a few lower obstacles and I made it and started doing more things. I've also tried to do street spin tricks but then I realized that I could brake the back swing so I can't do everything with it but i can do a lot. And this is my first movie that is longer then 30s and contains more then two clips. I did it mostly to see how my riding is and train to edit movies.

Hello! I want to start with trial and I was thinking about buying a Kona Dawg with full suspension. What do you think about that? Well, many probably say no. But ofcorse you can trial with it. Better resolution if you would like that http://www.mediafire.com/?9ax1ngn6x16

In Sweden you can buy it in a well sorted supermarket. It's used to loosen up hair and other things when the sewer pipes get stuck. I don't know if it's 100% consentrated but on the info it says one spoon/liter. But in a hardware store you should be able to get it and that could be more concentrated then the Kitchen version. It could be different in GB.

I've been working a little with caustic soda. It's a strongly ...(English word?) but opposite to acid. You can have it your skin and it doesn't feel at all, and I've been told that if you get it in your eyes it doesn't feel much either and the eyes doesn't tear and it will into the eye the same way as acid but the body doesn't react until it's to late. So be very careful. The most dangerous chemicals is the unexpected ones that doesn't smell and don't seem to do anything. I don't think it's a good idea to have it on the frame because you get in everywhere and if you not get it out or can neutralize it, it will eat out the frame from the inside and it could weaken the welding joints. I think that the professionals have a neutralizing bath too. And when you mix it. Water first then the caustic soda or acid. If you have caustic soda and pour water on it, it will boil at contact and throw it up and around. I would have gone for sandpapers and drill attached steel brush or sand blasting. Edit: If you should get it in your in your face and you not sure if you got it in your eyes don't think it's fine just because you don't feel anything. Wash it with much water and contact a hospital.

Well, I'm not a pro but I currently studying welding and in 6 month I'm going to take my licenses. Then I'm going to be a welder and make my own frames and forks.

A little heat on it could loosen up the locktite a little.

I've tried smooth rims and it works as long as the rim is clean and dry and they screams. I've tried smooth grinded rims it's also works but without a fat brake booster I slipped a lot. Now I have harshly grinded rims with the green try-all hard pads and there's no alternative for me. They get slippery in water but it's nothing compared to smooth rims. They are totally silent, the only thing I hear is a smooth scratching sound that sounds quality. I grind my rims with a rasp.

Hehe, I have painted my MC but thats all experience I have. What make it so good(I'm a little surprised myself) I think is watching a programs on DiscoveryCH when thay paint cars and bikes and my dad has been painting few mailboxes and my brother has recently finished a carpainting education. So I can ask my brother about the paints and how they have to be handled. But the I don't know how it will go for the gold leaf because the laquere that are used for "gluing" the gold on to the surface my not be compatible with the clearcoat and rise. If that would happen then I have to sand it of and redo it. But then I will try using clear coat as glue.

I've been thinkng about it. No, I know it's a little to much for a trial frame but I just do it for practice and I wanted to try a few things that I was thinking about to do on my MC. And it was a good thing to try some gold leafing on.

"Marbleized" with green metalic. Masked for shadowing. Shadowed. Masking taken off. Added some flash spots. Leaf gold on the headtube. It was difficult to handle it because the smalest breathing can make it fly away a shrink into a little ball.

Yupp, but this isn't my only hobby. I also Snowboarding, Skiing, Kiteboarding and Windsurfing on the sporting side. Then on the crafting side I have a MC and a car that takes some of my time but I also make japanese style blades. And on top of that I have to be a little social and comunicate with people on different forums for every hobby. So my time is expensive. I hope that I'll get finished this week because I live in my parents home right now but I'm studying welding in the south of Sweden, we live 600km north of that so I'm not able to do any painting down there when I go back there on saturday. If I'm not get it finished by then I could get it finished on the x-mas holidays.

Hmm... I don't think I would do that. It takes so much time and it's time I don't have, so I only do things for my self at the moment. And I don't think people will pay a resonable price for the time it takes.

Yupp, I've painted the fork aswell but pics will come later on that one. Clearcoated and ready for masking. Tribal motif. Masking the motif. Cutting out the motif. I was thinking about making this motif on the head tube with gold leaf. Masked and ready for painting.

I would suggest dark red metalic with green pearl ontop. And ZOO in ghost shaded gold. But I don't know if you are as crazy as me and spend much money on expensive paints that is likely to be scratched.

To night I applied two layers of clear coat and it made a big differense. The pearl comes out much more. Pics will come tomorrow, I hope. I've scetched up a tribal that I'm going to mask on the frame tomorrow.

It's a DevilBiss but I don't know exact model, It's my brothers. I haven't got the invoice paint yet but I'm afraid that the pearl will cost a little. I had the ground and clearcoat already but the copper and the smoke metalic 2,5dl each cost about £40 for a total of 0,5dl then I have 20% discount . And the pearl was only 1dl but I'm not supriced if that only will cost as much as the other paint.

Now I've applied the copper metalic and the pearl paint. Gold Purple pearl.

I've got the pearl paint today and depending on the dry times and if I must lay the clear coat within a certain time I will do it this evening. I've been thinking about the fork too. But I think that dull black will match the frame quite good. I may do some motif paint on it. It's a dark copper paint that I'm using so it will not stick out so much from a black fork.

I've been thinking about that but I want to try some things with pearl and tribals design and some leaf gold. This is not cheep spraycan paint. It's 2 component car paints. I see this very much as training because putting so much work into the paintjob on a trial frame that's going to be scratched is not so smart. Only the paint costs about 70£. And if I wouldn't do it myself it would cost as much as the frame. And now I'm done with the copper metalic but I can't get a pic until tomorrow because I borrow my neighbors garage.

I've started painting my GU 26" frame that I recently bought. It's going to be copper metalic with a purple gold pearl and maybe some designs in dark gray metalic. First I had to clean of some remains of an old crap paint that was on it and sandblasted it. Masking the holes and bolts. Base coat.