Eduardo

Exactly what I was thinking, no idea why anyone did this? t-f is full of wankers to be honest.

How can u clearly see that theres two dropouts, when there so clearly ISN'T .

BEAST, snow aswell . Nutter.

Just get a higher stem? it will be safer and probs cost the same amount lol.

Yess lad haha, bike looks good now, will have to sort a ride out soon . Pads look beast aswell. Mat

Either the tubes are seriously thin or theres only 1 chainstay .

Did you say that to TRA aswell?

I like to stick to the old " if it's not broke, don't fix it" Phrase but i Do think that "random Hub's" should be upgraded depending on strength and the Reliabilty of the hub's they should be upgraded to something along the lines of Pro II or Maybe a Chriss King if you have the money. Just my opinion, depending upon you're level of riding these hubs maybe Ok, but if i where you i would upgrade

Mum gets abit arsy about it being in the house, Tyre marks on the Cupboards, tripping over it in the morning etc. Garage door is actually Nakkerd, It's army accomodation so we have to rely on them to fix it and there abit slow

Bit of a silly question really, Mum's getting abit fed-up of me leaving my bike in the kitchen over night and i dare'nt leave it outside becaus i don't want it to get stolen or go rusty, Garage isn't an option either as the door won't open, shed's abit small, was just curious as to where you left it, surely not every one takes there bike Inside? Sorry for the Random-ocity and Obscure-ness of this topic but i'm intruiged as to where you keep you're priced possesions lol.

Most people seem to just bodge a a rear mech to make a tensioner, if not it cant be too hard to make, ive seen people make them out of spoons, hacksaw bladed, spanners, all sort's of bodges, they seem to last pretty long aswell, failing that just buy a cheap onza or dmr tension seeker

The heatsink one's are the best in my opinion but i believe the onza ones are cheaper, also ZHI and mision do some, the mission ones are only £7.99 i think, not sure what there like quality wise though as i have only ever used the heatsink ones.

Is worth the money over the T-bird, has goyt better components worth which are worth the increase in price, also the frame geomotry is alot better, many rider's that are experienced ride T-pro frame's plus they are much stronger over the T-bird, i would reccomend looking for one on ebay rather than on here or from a shop as they often go for dirt cheap! and the 07 T-pro's come with Vee's which in some cases can be more powerful than magura's but from what i've heard they are just cheap and nasty, i would go for an older model or upgrade to magura's once i have purchased it, it might be worth saving alittle more and getting something deng or buying a T-pro and upgraidn the frame, there are some bargain's on mod frames in the classified section of the forum

How can that be right ? they spin at exactly the same speed, how can the hub spin at a different speed to the rim? Edit: cable disc's and cable rim brakes can be an advantage over hydraulic and vice verser (spelling)

Not a problem mate, glad to help

This has been puzzling me for weeks, a disk brake is basically a larger version of a rim brake and the brake is the caliper and the rim is the rotor ? so surely a rim brake is better than a disk brake due to it being a "20 or "26 rotor? i asumed this due to people saying a larger rotor=more braking power. If this is true the surely a rim brake on a "26 is more powerful than it would be on a "20 due to the "26 rim( rotor) being larger? or has it all got something to do with the fact that a disk brake is closer to the hub ??? Hopefully someone understands thuis as its about as simple as i can put it Thanks for reading

It's a hard concept to grasp, i would have thought people on here that ride BMX aswell would be pretty acustomed to thing such as tailwhip's as it's a BMX oriented trick, i cant do it, never tried, never will, that video that ben travis posted was absolutly amzing !

It often happens to me, last week i was able to sidehop about "34 and this week i cant even manage to do it atall, i agree with what "davetrials" said, you have to be in the mood to perform well otherwise you're mind is elsewhere and it affect's you're ability

As said either ring tartybikes or a company that know what there talking about or set up your rear brake and measure the distance between the pads, if its tyre clearance you're worried about measure the distance between the chain stays also you could run some of the tensile offset mount's if all fail's

I don't really see the need for this when there is already one in members chat but anyway here you are

Hello and welcome to the forum, im new too. A "24 is'nt the best option to start on due to lack of components such as rims and tyres but if you feel thats what you would like to begin on then dont let other people's opinions sway you're decision

For a second hand one on here you're probably looking at about £70-£100 i would of thought but it may be worth saving a little more and going for the 221TI rather than the PR, it is almost exactly the same apart from its lighter, stronger and i *think* its hand made. It;s a huge improvment from a T-bird though and it has a rear disk mount and 4 bolt mounts so you can run either a magura/dengura or a disk, on the PR i have heard of it snapping around the BB area and on the TI i have never heard one bad word about it, if i were you i would go for the TI but its up to you, hope i helped

Although it's a stupid idea it show's that trials is evolving and people are inventing new idea's to better the sport.

There good for asthetics but the bearing's just dont hold up, you're better of getting a hope headset or a chris king to be honest.

Greaty editing, i really enjoyed that and thought the music went well with the style of riding, keepup the good work