steve-winder

what the hell.. wow there is allot of criticism going on. the riding was good, maybe not to the style of allot of us but never the less it was good. to be honest, you would really benefit from buying a bmx and i'm sorry but riding helmet-less is a big NO in my book. the point about giving danny mac a run for his money........erm NO.

yep, i have been working on getting some footage this weekend, hopefully should have a video out very soon.

count me in as always

i'm just under 6ft tall matey. and thanks for the comments guys

hey guys, just a picture of my atomz and a few pictures of its first ride out. a big shout out to adam and the lads at tarty bikes for there excellent service as always. a quick spec for anyone wondering: atomz premier frame, viz curve blade forks, re-system stem, trialtech riser bars, cranks bash and sprocket, rear chris king classic on echo rim, front tryall hub on hog rim, 74 kings tensioner, rear magura with tryall croco pads, front 203mm mono trial disc, maxxis tyres. steve

couldn't of said it better myself, consider me there. steve

oredered one of these frames myself yesterday, i'll post up pics when its built. from looking at yours, i'm very glad ive gone for one of them. looks and i bet it rides spot on mate. steve

absolute bargain. i got some middleburn super pro cranks with ti bash for free. 15 innertubes for 3 quid off ebay. steve

Adam, nothing else to say other than....... perfect. must say i havnt seen a bashring trapped behind the bb shell before but looks absolutely spot on. The red parts have a very defined contrast to the rest of the bike. Yet another work of art bike build from yourself. steve

In my opinion, the pro2 will be allot more reliable, strong and have a much longer life than a profile. Profile hubs have been tried and used on stock and have failed miserably due to lack of strength and fouling of the ratchet mechanism. When ste first got the pro2 he was riding stock. having both stock and mod experience and also ive used hope pro2's and profiles. We both thought well whats the point of just leaving the new pro2 laying unused whilst buying a new wheel for mod. Thats where the idea for converting the pro2 came abouts. As for the disc mount. Yes there isnt quite enough room to fit a rotor in due to the angle of the chainstays, however with very minimal facing of the hubshells disc mount it wouldn't be a problem to make it disc usable. steve

hey guys. I am the person who modified the hub for ste racca (steve carradus). it is a normal hope pro2 trials rear hub. I took the drive shell off and cut threads into the cassete splines and made a stainless steel locking ring for the sprocket. I then machined down the axle, drive shell and outside spacers to bring the hub's total length to exactly 116mm. Built and trued the wheel. jobs a gooden steve

I'm not suprised he snapped a diamond drill piece, diamond doesn't cut metal. The best drill pieces to use are either tin or titanium nitrate coated bits. Hard as hell and make light work of even the hardest stainless steels. when it comes to removing bolts i have used the same technique every time. Drill a small hole in the centre of the bolt, then tap a tight fitting torx bit into the hole. the bolt will usually then unscrew. If not, there are tools available for the job called stud removers. Yet again you need to drill a hole in the centre of the bolt but stud removers use a left handed thread to screw into and remove the bolt/stud. steve

hi mate, i think your asking the wrong question. its not "what is the best 20" frame" . what you should be thinking about is "what is the best 20" frame for me". when you come to buy a frame, you need to think about what is best for you. e.g length, geometry, design, features, weight, price. if you ride with a big group of people, try their bikes and see which feel of bike you prefer. if your riding a frame not comfortable and suitable for you it will be much harder to progress your riding. also , look at yourself. in allot of cases taller riders will be more suited to a longer frame. whereas smaller riders might prefer a shorter, lighter frame. As for features. what brakes do you want to use: v, disc, magura. do you want a cnc look frame or just plain tubes. there is no point in everyone telling you what frame they think is best, that decision needs to be yours. think long and hard before choosing a frame because a frame that is properly suited to you can really benefit your riding. steve

i ride on my own. It is often very relaxing riding on your own and also your concentration levels can be higher. some people may think this is stupid but i love to just stick my ipod in and go and ride, especially if its raining. i don't know why, but i love it. i guess when you live a busy, stressful life. its awesome to get some piece and quiet and concentrate on what you love. steve

As most riders do. they get it from the road. it is usually used to seal the join when a new section of tarmac is layed. however monty do make a product called brake spray. it can be bought for £4.75 from: http://shop.cleanbikes.co.uk/monty-brake-spray-122-p.asp I personally prefer to use normal road tar. its free, effective and can be found almost anywhere. steve

hi mate. that is a very good choice of bike you have there. i am a partially sponsored by meta riding their 360cc and they are seriously nice bikes. an amazing riding bike with a an excellent specification at a good price. good luck riding yours steve

pouring coke on your rims seems like a stupid idea to me. if the weather is dry then yes coke probably will become sticky on your rims and possibly increase braking temporarily. if the weather is wet however it will just be a waste of coke. if your looking for increased performance then i recommend the traditional brake upgrades. a ground rim with decent brake pads or perhaps smooth rims with tar. either of these can work well. to me. pouring coke on your rims is a pointless waste of drink. steve

first of all. there has been new topics on "which pads are best" since the start of the forum. check out the section which has been made especially for brake pad reviews. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=41481 as regards to using a booster. the dob magnesium frame doesn't appear to have much substantial strengthening around the area where the seat stays meet the top tube. and considering the frame is a magnesium alloy (proven to be lighter but not quite as strong as some of the popular aluminium alloys) it is probably worth while using a booster. the dob has a 99mm spaced 4 bolt mount which leaves you allot of choice as to which booster you want to use. almost every available booster is compatible with your frame so the choice is yours. steve

i completely disagree about the monty. the onza t-comp is a completely better bike. just look at the specification comparisons for a start: the onza comes complete with tensile freewheel, magura hs33 brakes, drilled rims, kmc kool chain. all of which are strong, all round good parts. compared to the monty which has an acs claw freewheel, v- type brakes, a lower stength kmc z chain and plain aluminium rims. in my opinion paying the extra for the onza is definately worth while for the specification upgrade that you get. the onza has more potential to be a better bike as you progress your riding. yes it may be true that monty have been making trials bikes for over 30 years but onza also have allot of experience in the biketrials scene and have a better bike to offer for your money. if you are still unsure mate. i reccomend that you give adam at www.tartybikes.co.uk a call and i'm sure he will advise you on which is the better machine. steve